December 2007
Centre box on my 97 A8 Quattro needs replacing. Audi only part apparantly, numerous exhaust outlets cannot get supply, so ordered the part myself for one of them to fit. £350 for just the centre section and sleeves -- outrageous. Why is the part not copied like 90% of the other car makers? Read more
snipurl.com/1vp0x
Scary. Read more
Personally i cant see why (learners) are not allowed to use (motorways)
I don't want learmers on the motorway. The point of passing a test is that they have gained experience in handling their cars, and of general driving. Motorways are not very different, especially from other fast roads like dual carriageways, and learners should easily be able to accumulate enough experience to start them off without going on the motorway. Imagine a timid inexperienced learner venturing onto the motorway on their second lesson! No, thanks! That's what things like the Pass+ courses could be good at.
hi all.hope someone can help. I have a 99 xantia 18 sx. One of the hydraulic pipes has split,its not in the rubber pipe section,but a metal pipe section.Is it possible to repair the pipe as you would a normal brake pipe by rejoining the two ends with a male and female joint.Or would i need a different fitting thanks mike1 Read more
hi richardw.the rubber pipe starts on the front os brake caliper then goes back to the engine bay.then splits in two one end then ends with a metal pipe this clips to side wall.then turns to go to the back of the car.what is a Kunifer pipe.citroens illogical, it took me 3 days to fit a new heater matrix.all the best for 2008.
My Dad got a problem with his 52-plate A4. He dropped the key before getting in the car, and may have put the key in the ignition with some soil on it...
He made an initial journey and the car started and ran okay but the interior light would not go out. He attended a meeting then returned to the car and now the steering lock will not release.
He's tried all sorts of jiggling of wheel and key, then applied a little brute force. The key now turns 180 degrees in the ignition and turns the radio on but will not turn on the ignition (will not start the car), and the steering wheel will not unlock.
The central locking seems to have gone awry, it sometimes locks all doors except the drivers, sometimes locks only the drivers.
Has anyone else had this happen? Does it sound like the ignition barrel is wrecked?
Do you think trying to clean it will help; my Dad intends to squirt some WD40 into the ignition and work the key in and out?
Clutching at straws I wondered if the spinning ignition was a security feature as it thinks the wrong key has been inserted? (Never tried the wrong key in an Audi ignition so dont know what it does).
Any ideas how much for a new ignition barrel? Will a VAG specialist independant be able to code it to the car or is it main dealer only?
Just tried to ring the local VAG indie but unsurprisingly they are not working today.
Any advice much appreciated,
Rich. Read more
Thankyou Screwloose I will tell him to look at that.
Hello
i have a Rover 400 1.6i 16v i am changing the head gasket, before taking the cam belt off i need to secure the two camshaft sprockets together so they dont move during the removal of the cyl/head, i did'nt have the correct tool so i used plastic ties this did the job so i thought until i removed the belt and the cyl/head, thats when the sprockets span round!!!! knocking the timeing out of sequence.
My Question is: when refitting the head is it just a case of aligning the lower camshaft sprocket timing to top dead centre (TDC) and then positioning the top two sprockets(exhaust and inlet) to there correct position before refitting the cyl/head + cambelt??????? please help! Read more
mate,
IF you do as you say you should be okay....the twin cams timing marks will only line up when they are in the correct position.....
The SAFEST thing to do is line everything up....put her all back together, then manually turn the crank with a socket and check she keeps lining up......
Laters
H
Manufacturers' fitted "styled" roof rails (think New Fiat Panda, most estate cars from the past 20 years).
Anyone ever used them?
Thought not. Read more
That must have been an 18GTX estate
Was indeed, and a very good car... did 30mpg cruising anywhere between 80 and 100 indicated. Good gear ratios too.
Hello!
I have a opel vectra 1.6 (c16nz)
The motor warning light is flashing always and the rpm is changing from 500 to 1500 all the time.
Sometimes the engine stops because the rpm is falling under 500 and some others the engine works at 4000 rpm for about 2-3 minutes whithout pushing the throttle pedal.
Some other times i have no throttle.
When i drive the highway the warning light lights and remains on until i stop the engine.
I checked the car and told me that is bad fuel mixture. (the voltage of l-sensor is not varies)
I changed the l-sensor. the same problem
I changed the "cold"-sensor on the uptake (after the injection gas jet). the same problem
I cleaned the injection. The same problem
I changed the ecu and i still have the same problem!
The motor light is still flashing (like a bad electric contact)
what else i must check??
Thank you
Hi I guess you're posting from abroad ! Hope you don't mind but I've filed this under the UK nomenclature of Vauxhall's equivalent Cavalier. Welcome to the BR there is a wealth of knowledge here - frightfully British I know but its no swearing old man !! Read more
Not quite. If you get code 51 from the replacement ECU, then it's likely saying that it's not the right one.
On your original ECU; you got code 45 telling you that the oxy sensor wasn't switching because the mixture was too rich - nothing was wrong with either the ECU or the oxy sensor, they were just alerting you to the fact that the mixture was too rich.
Finding out the reason for the mixture being too rich is the task that you now need to address.
One of the main mixture control sensors is the MAP sensor on the bulkhead - check it's hose and it's voltage output to the ECU carefully to find out if they are correct. If they are, you'll need to look elsewhere.
renault master 2.2d 51 reg starts well no heat needed will only rev to 3500 had new injectors air flow valve egr valve cleaned no lights on dash got a diesel knock main dealers computor cant get any readings at all any ideas what i can tryit seams heavy on fuel but i dont know if it is poss to adjust common rail systems thanks paul Read more
topbloke
I didn't want to give it airs and graces. If it isn't ECU controlled and doesn't regenerate like a proper DPF; then it's just there to trap soot [OK; if you must "diesel particulates"] and thus it's a waste of space in my book.
A customer of mine has a fleet of these Movano "things" bought cheap as a job lot; virtually every one has blocked it's "cat" and had them gutted over the years. [They then go a lot better and use much less juice.]
i have always wondered why i have never achieved the official mpg provided by parkers, what car etc. i wanted to know who advertises these figures and are they genuine for instance could a land cruiser Prado producing 31 mpg and an land cruiser amazon producing 25 mpg actually be more economical in a real life day to day running. it could be possible as i have heard but i want to know your opinions Read more
As has been said above, it is basically about 3 things -
a) lab conditions (which will always give a better figure than real life),
b) your driving style, and
c) your driving mix.
My Berlingo 1.6 has an official combined mgp figure of 38.2.
Over the past year, I have averaged 39.8.
My driving is largely rural with very little urban driving and the occasional long run.
I just bought a Mercedes C180 automatic, when starting in the morning it is very sluggish. The first 3 times you start it cuts off straightaway, then the tickover is lumpy and the engine misfires. If you put your foot on the gas pedal it sometimes does not rev up. It feels like the engine is not getting the right mixture (air / fuel intake?) Then after 5 minutes it goes fine.
I also noticed when it's warm the kickdown is a bit weird. If you floor it it goes fine but when you are in 3rd/4th gear when you kick down it only changes down one gear but the rev is still under 3000. Is it related to the misfire??
I have plugged it on the diagnostic computer and it came back with a few faults including oxygen and camshaft sensors, but I cleared them all it was still the same.
Any response will be appreciated. Read more
This could be a faulty coolant temp sensor; they don't often leave codes.
The only way to be sure, is to measure it's resistance when cold.
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No it doesn't matter if he bought it cheaply, recently.
You can buy a Bentley Mulsanne, in good condition, for £8,000 but you wouldn't expect anything other than Bentley running costs would you.