May 2007
Another day (almost), another question...
could anyone point me in the direction of a website where I can input what I am paying for my own car (cost of borrowing, servicing, insurance, tax etc.) against what I would pay if I joined my company car scheme (BIK etc.)?
Thanks
S6 1SW Read more
weve got a problem with our 206 d,it starts no problem but when you press accelerator slowly nothing happens,you have to floor the accelerator to get any responce but as soon as you take your foot of the accelerator your back to having to floor the accelerator again ,any suggestions would be great Read more
brayer you are a star worked a treat
Hi
My porsche runs on contact breakers and i wondered if we can still buy conversion kits for breakerless ignition. If so, any ideas?
thanks
Steve
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If the Porsche 924 has a standard type of Bosch distributor, I'm sure it should be quite easy to find an equivalent Bosch Hall effect distributor which you can use. In a similar way, it's quite easy to update early Vauxhall OHC engines with points as fitted to, say MKI Astras, to the later spec of electronic ignition distributor as fitted to later Vauxhalls. You will also need the appropriate coil and igntion amplifier. You might also have to modify any existing ballast resistor set-up.
I wouldn't both with any aftermarket electronic ignitions, when it should be so painless and easy to use proper Bosch parts.
Number_Cruncher
Im interested in a toyota avensis estate 2004. Ive seen a 1.8 petrol but have always driven diesels.
I was wondering with regards to fuel and servicing, which would i be better off with
I drive on average 10000 a year and my current car get between 45-50mpg which im very happy with.
Any info on drive quality etc appreciated
Thanks Read more
Sorry - I see you have already said how many miles you do. I'd still recommend a 2.2 D4D if you can find one in budget - superbly refined motorway cruiser, under 2000rpm @ 70mph.
Sometimes when turning the steering wheel there's an odd wheezing noise, seemingly coming from somewhere behind the dash. just in front of the steering wheel. What might that be? Read more
Could be a symptom of the dreaded Cavalier / SAAB cracked bulkhead problem. SAAB forums mention a wheezing sound when turning steering wheel as bulkhead moves with steering rack which is affixed to bulkhead.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/index.htm?p_make=SAA...1
www.saabphotos.com/gallery/My-NG900-Bulkhead-Repai...1
Nice, if you like that sort of thing.
And is it me or does that image of Marilyn have some of the noted caravan fan Margaret Beckett about it?
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/6664623.stm
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Worth listening to Front Row on R4 to put this in perspective. As the host said you could fund a hospital or a school for that, apparently a Rembrandt goes for a third of this, I know which one would be covering the cracks in PU Towers' walls if I had that sort of money - dammit I can go out and photograph a car-wreck just up the road almost any time.
My Hornet 600 only gets used for about two thirds of the year, and having owned it from new in 1998 I am by now very conversant with putting it to bed for the winter with whatever fuel happens to be in the tank. Come the spring, and with battery having been kept charged with an Optimate, it's just a matter of cranking the engine for a few seconds until the float chambers fill, then off we go to the fuel station to tank up and thereby dilute the old fuel. Nine years on, the motor is still in perfect rude health and pulls hard, so I very much doubt gummed up carbs. Gummy, yes, probably, but not gummed up and I'm certainly not about to fiddle with something that works so well.
At the other end of the engineering scale, I have just purchased a lawnmower powered by the Mountfield RV150 engine, and it makes quite clear in the handbook that the fuel tank and carb should be emptied of fuel if the mower won't be used for 30 days or more. Today, using it for the first time, I brimmed the tank to the limit of the filling neck to get a rough idea of how often I will need to fill up and found that 30 minutes mowing dropped the fuel level by the height of that filler neck, that's all! At that rate a tank of fuel will last nearly a season!
So, do I add a fuel stabiliser Like THe late Growler did in his genny (www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=15...3
),
or adopt the same attitude that I successfully did with the Hornet?
My thread is prompted by this brand new mower starting cleanly on absolutely the first gentle pull of the cord after filling with fuel. I was astonished; no spluttering, just pull, vroom. Each subsequent hot start was just as easy. Having watched Dad huff and puff (Pull, d-d-d-donk. Pull, d-d-d-donk. Etc, etc!) and buy goddness knows how many carburettor overhaul kits for his Briggs & Stratton powered Mountfield, this is a characteristic I wish to retain! Read more
I use the Frost's stuff too, and it really does work. I think it contains ethyl nitrates, as this is what it smells like.
Hi
I have an N reg Peugeot 306 which I haven't been using very much due to changing job and being able to walk to work. After the terrible rain at the weekend I tried to turn it over on Monday - dead!
My neighbour kindly offered to charge the battery which he did but explained it wasn't holding the charge very well. We tried it again but nothing.
We've been and bought a new battery and tried again and this happens:
Turn engine on, dash lights come on, immobiliser activates and radio comes on. I enter my security pin into immobiliser and it accepts it and the light goes green.
I then turn the key to turn the engine over and the car immediately dies. The car engine doesn't even attempt to turn over.
We then have to disconnect the battery and re-connect to be able to get the lights back on inside the car.
The key fob has not been working throughout these problems so we used the key in the door lock. Now we've just tried to open the doors and they key won't even unlock the doors now. So I have a car that doesn't run and can't open.
Can anyone help me please???
Peardrops. Read more
Another problem stemming from the original one. The radio obviously had to be re-coded due to the battery been disconnected several times. However it won't let us enter any code whatsoever.
Do I have to find a Peugeot dealer to get it re-set and if so any idea of cost? Or is there a way around it to enable us to turn the radio on again.
Many thanks
From HJ test .... "But as soon as they found out it was a Ford, badge snobbery and the fear of massive depreciation would start getting in the way. Ford has addressed that by raising specification levels, reducing ?list? prices and cutting fleet discounts. Instead of churning out fields of LXs for rental fleets they are concentrating on high spec cars to order."
So Ford's new policy didn't last long! As previous model, a great second-hand buy. Read more
"Surely that's why Ford bought the Rover badge from BMW last year!"
Surely you jest. They bought the brand to protect Land Rover.
I'm guessing first batch of cheaper Mondeo's were the first of the production line to get the build process right. But not surprised some discount still available on these. I'm hoping if I like the car the price on the company scheme not too bad - we have a deal direct with Ford, Vauxhall and Toyota to get discounts apparently (so get cars from these groups, i.e. Ford, Volvo, LR, Jag, VX, Saab, Toyota, Lexus, etc.)
Hi there,
My 1997 Petrol Combo (same as astra 1.4L) will start but will only keep running for about ten minutes then it stalls and won't start again for an hour or so.
I've changed the coil and regulator but it's still the same,
It's really annoying because i don't want to risk breaking down miles away from home.
Has anyone had a similar fault or know what it might be the problem?
I gave the paper clip test a go and hay presto!
Came up with "85" immobliser fault.
Question is, is anyone aware of common immobliser faults with these engines?
Is there a way of bypassing the immobliser?
The van isn't worth bringing to a dealer to fix and i need it to move house soon.
Any help would be great
John
{Subject header given a more meaningful title - DD} Read more
I had the van in with another mechanic and he told me that this model doesn't have a crank shaft sensor.
Could this be true or did he just want rid, He couldn't tell me what the problem might be.
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Not quite what you're looking for but have a play with www.cashorcar.com
(Fair enough to link to this one. HJ.)