May 2007
Now I'm not 100% but last night I filled up my car (Volvo S40 TD) at the nearby BP garage. It had around 10 litre diesel in it and I poured in another 30 litre (of diesel I hope now). I'm quite sure I filled it up with diesel but I'm not entirely sure. Last night I drove car back home which was around half a mile and it was fine but this morning after driving it for 10 minutes or so car seemed to get a little bit funny, jerking a bit. I kept on driving it and drove 40 miles to work mainly on the motorway and at speeds over 70 it was as smooth as it normally is. But when I came off the motorway it got really jerky in 1st and 2nd gear. Do you guys think I filled it up with petrol last night or is it just the diesel which I poured in from BP garage? I've got a BP petrol pump down the road from where I work so me filling it up now with Ultimate diesel would make any different or what shall i do? I'm really worried! Read more
I know I will sound like a typical woman BUT I purchased an Astra in February from a dealer. Last weekend the body work has been damaged so my insurance company came out to asses and have said that they will not undertake the repairs as there has been damage to the car previously and the work is of a poor standard and they are not prepared to carry out repairs on poor previous repairs. I want to return the car to the dealer and try to invoke Sale of Goods Act 1979.
Would this be possible and if so how do I do it?
Any help would be great Read more
make sure you do your homework next time
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There may have been no way this could have come to light, as a HPI check will only show repairs which were done via the normal insurance system. If the car was damaged and repaierd 'off the records', short of her being and expert car inspector it may not have come to light.
I have £6k cash to spend on a s/hand car and was thinking of having a look around Carcraft.
Can any of you share your experiences with me (good or bad) as to what they are like?
Also:
Can you haggle with them at all-especially for cash? If so how much i.e. would £6k get me a £6,500 car?
If I bought say a 2 year old Ford Focus would I be right in saying that there would be a 3 year manufacturers warranty with this of which 1 year would be left on this which would be transferrable to the new owner i.e. me?
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As the previous message may be libelious.
The one time I visited I found their price policy (potential libel removed) and expensive compared with elsewhere. (In eek's opinion)They target customers who are unable to get credit elsewhere and hence seem to provide expensive cars on expensive credit.
Have a look at their website and then look at your local ford dealer. Ford direct have a large number of 06 Focus 1.6 LX for £7500 or so.
'Er indoors reckons that the three chords played at the start and end of the parts of the ITV F1 race programmes are the first three notes of "Three Blind Mice"!
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L\'escargot. Read more
Also Aaye Ho Meri Zindagi Mein from from the film Raja Hindustani.
I'm going to replace the rear wheel bearing on my VW Polo soon. I've looked through the HBOL and it [surprise surprise] doesn't mention which type of grease to use.
I was going to use Duckhams LM (High melting point) grease - is this type the correct? Read more
Putting it simply, it's because platelets of MoS2 can line up under a rolling element and form a wedge, jamming it. Because the additive has such a low coefficient of friction, a jammed ball or roller will then tend to slide rather than roll. This spells doom for the bearing - they are rolling bearings.
MoS2 grease is fine in bushes and balljoints, especially where reciprocal motion is involved as jamming will not occur and clearances are large anyway. Similarly, in a CV joint the rolling elements actually reciprocate as the joint turns under articulation so there is no danger of jamming. Clearances tend to be large within CV joints after a period of use anyway. Wheel bearings are made to very fine limits
659.
I have just had the paperwork from DVLA for the renewal of my car tax on line. Included is a leaflet warning me, if buying a car, to check that the V5 does not fall within the range BG 9167501 and BG 9190500. This is 23,000 documents involved which is a significant number! Information posted for the benefit of Backroom car buyers.
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Thanks for the confirmation. Buyer Beware!
Hi All
Probably a silly question but how can you tell if a car was undersealed?
I live in Ireland and planning on buying a Skyline from a private buyer in Ireland.It was originaly a Jap import imported into the UK where I think its spend the last few years.
Im afraid the salt on the Uk motorways will corrode the underbody eventually.
Do all Jap Imports have do be undersealed comming into the UK? Read more
It may or may not have been undersealed - depends on who owned. Either way, I would steam clean it underneath and then treat it with Dinitrol products.
All this guy needs is a commentry by Alastair Stewart and he's got his own TV slot...probably BBC 2 8pm on a Tuesday.
www.break.com/index/awesome_police_motorbike_chase...l Read more
Well hopefully he will become a Darwin statistic soon and not take anyone else with him....
large air inlet pipe came adrift where flexible hose joins fixed plastic pipe, car smoked very badly. Pipe reconnected with original jubilee clip but has since come adrift twice more. Is this a build up of pressure somewhere or just a bad connection? Read more
hi I presume this Renault uses a vnt garrett turbo. Might be best to get a check done at a renault dealer as a code fault code may have been logged if the pressure has exceeded specification.
You really need a ramp to get under the car then it's a case of checking that the turbo actuator will move between it's stops smoothly (firm thumb pressure should be enough). If the vanes stick in the 'aggressive position' then the pressure is going to rise over 2 bar at high revs and that could blow a hose off. If it's not sticking the fault could be caused by a fault in the control system.
As a rough check you can watch the offending hose when the engine is revved hard you might be able to see how much it 'balloons' which can indicate excessive pressure build up.
Hi Guys
This is my first post having just purchased a 1.5 XL diesel for my Daughter.
I have tonight noticed a couple of problems & I would be very grateful for any advice that you can offer.
First, I noticed that the thermostat housing has a slight leak. It would appear that there is a crack or split in the cast. Is this a common fault & are replacement casings readily available?
Secondly, whilst the engine was running, I noticed diesel leaking from the injectors on cylinders 1 & 2, also possible traces on the other two. The diesel leak is worst on cylinder one and is leaking from the join between the injector & the head and also at the next joint up. The feed nipple joints from the injectors to the pump are all fine though. There also seems to be a leak from the return hose even though it is securly fitted with no splits.
I have removed the feed lines for all cylinders & the glow plugs to gain better access, I am however at a loss with their removel/repair.
What is the best way to remove & split the injectors as there just isn't the room for a spanner. I presume the top of the injector has to be removed first to make room for a 22mm socket? I see the top has two flat edges but again there just isn't the room to position a 17mm spanner.
Are the any seals involved here or do the injectors just screw in?
This is my first diesel car, and I am the first to admit I know very little about them!
Many thanks for your help. Read more
The thermostat housing is plastic and prone to failure. Replace using a new sealing ring and use PSA antifreeze at 50% strength with distilled or rain water.
If the engine is running normally there is no leak on the high pressure side of the injectors. Do not remove the injectors or disturb the high pressure pipes without very good reason. By far the most common cause of fuel leaks in this area is due to failure of the rubber leakoff pipes which link the injectors and return surplus fuel to the tank. Check also the rubber tit on No 4 injector (timing belt end). Any leaks here will result in fuel accumulating at the injector/cyl head interface.
Don't dismantle an injector on the engine and if you must take it out, make sure you have the correct holding fixture before splitting the nozzle from its holder. Don't put it in a vice.
The Bosch system on this engine is very reliable and if it is undisturbed and has had good maintenance it will outlast the engine.
659.
I'm not surprised it ran if it's a proper old diesel - I know someone very well, if you know what I mean, who put 60l of petrol in an old-tech diesel (2.5litre VM in a Scorpio). It pinked a lot and took a bit of starting but as and when there was a couple of gallons of space it got topped up with diesel and by stages it recovered fully. It did another 60,000 miles after that with no problems.