December 2006
Quick one really guys,
Got in car to come home from work, side mirrors iced up, back screen iced up. Put demist button on (which does mirrors and back window) Mirrors not demsiting, touched glass stone cold steve austin, usually it is red hot. Back windows clear in 5 mins.
Just check hand book and fuse 16 under bonnet 30 amp controlls both mirrors and back window, fuse has not blown.
Any ideas pleeese, could really do with this now it is getting colder.
Car Audi 80 93'L 2.0E
Thanks!
Read more
Any thoughts on this battery charging problem?
The car is an 04 1.2 Corsa, warranty ends in May 07.
When we got it at one year old the battery green float was not showing, however after some days and a few miles it was showing.
Occasionally when checking the car the float has not showed, but then it has reappeared later on.
Recently the engine was reluctant to turn over because the battery was down.
I installed a DVM in the cigar lighter socket to monitor the system voltage. It usually started off okay at approx 14V but then faded away to 12V after a few minutes; occasionally it would rise again to 14V. Stopping and starting the engine seemed to start the cycle over again. There was no green float.
The car has been back to the agent three times now, about once every 2 weeks.
The first time they checked it over but didn?t really notice a problem despite me writing a letter describing the fault.
The second time they changed the alternator.
The third time they changed the ?body computer?.
There seemed to be a temporary improvement each time before the problem re-occurred and since the ?body computer? was replaced the green float has appeared again, which means that things have greatly improved.
But 2 weeks later the system voltage seems to show signs of fluctuating again.
Naturally the red ?ignition light? is illuminated at ignition on, then extinguishes when the engine starts until the next starting sequence. And I thought it was there to warn of problems.
Has anybody had similar problems? Is this ropey GM wiring?
Why does the alternator need to be controlled by the body computer, it just seems to be an added complication?
I would be grateful for any thoughts on this.
Read more
Corsa intermittent charging problem ? could be solved?
During the last year this problem has appeared briefly and then gone, never around long enough to really work out what was going on and the car was still under warranty until May 2007.
In April a 200 mile holiday journey was undertaken during which nearly all power was lost on the M1 in twilight conditions. Miraculously power returned and the destination was reached. Next day was a Sunday so I visited a nearby Halfords where the friendly staff checked the alternator charge voltage (okay) and the state of battery charge (okay).
All went well until the return journey on the next Saturday when a dozen miles from home (this time in daylight) warning lights started to appear one by one (never the battery warning light though!) luckily the car kept going (electric steering now u/s so very heavy) and eventually the local VX garage was reached.
I left the engine ticking over while I managed to get a salesman (afternoon now so no technical staff) out to look at all the panel lights and by now the speedo showing 40 mph and the revcounter showing 3000rpm!
He turned the ignition off and tried for a re-start ? no luck just a click!
The car was in for a service on the Monday after so it was left there. Monday afternoon they rang and said ?Come and collect it we?ve fitted a new battery?.
The warranty was all but finished now and the intermittent charging problem now seemed to be a figment of my imagination. However it was decided that the voltage should be monitored and for some time all seemed okay. At one point I decided to remove the alternator to check connections within it and even put some shakeproof washers on the screws fastening the voltage regulator connections. All seemed okay for a long time. Then a couple of instances where the starter motor/solenoid just clicked then eventually engaged and finally during a short journey the voltmeter showed less than 12 volts indicating that no charging was occurring. This state continued for a mile or so until a place to stop was found. With the engine still running I lifted the bonnet wondering what to do, what with a new alternator and a new battery it must be down to bad connections now!
I was not going grovelling behind the engine checking alternator and starter motor connections with the engine running, so all I had left was the leads to the battery. Just pulling at these leads produced a change in engine noise and the charging voltage was now up to 14 volts. As home was a dozen miles further on I decided to keep going. Naturally the fault did not reoccur but now I had a good idea of what it was. All battery connections had always seemed firm enough but there was a fault there. After a day or two and some thought I decided to start the car, turn on as much of the electrical system as possible (to put electrical stress on the large cables and connections between the alternator and the battery) and monitor the voltage at the battery whilst tugging at the connections. Small deviations from the nominal 14 volts occurred but the problem was found when the large positive (black) cable/ battery lug crimped connection was touched ? it was warm!
Luckily I had access to an adjustable crimp tool and (as these are crimps of a hexagonal shape) managed to put some extra ?squeeze? on 3 lands 120 degrees apart. As the positive and negative battery cables are part of the same loom and presumably assembled by the same company I decided to re-crimp the negative cable as well.
Now the connection is not warm and the voltmeter will be in use for a few more weeks to keep a check and hopefully full confidence will return.
Quite how a connection can be as temperamental as this and not appear loose is still a mystery.
Can anyone please give me some guidance as to the values of resistance for the GREEN (ECU) and BROWN (FAN CONTROL) temperature sensors on a 1999 1.6i petrol 306?
At the moment they are as folllows:
Hot (engine at normal working temp) green=250 ohms, brown=2800 ohms
20 C (approx), green=2500 ohms, brown=1800 ohms
So from these readings I summise that the green one is a NTC type, (resistance DECREASES with a rise in temperature) and the brown one is a PTC type, (resistance INCREASES with a rise in temperature).
I ask because the petrol consumption seems to have increased noticably over the last couple of weeks and I know these can be the cause (because the ECU thinks the enginge is cold and overfuels it all the time).
There is also a THIRD sensor (behind the water pump) but it remember it is a French car!
Any links to a good Peugeot technical website will be welcomed also.
Nick Read more
Nick
The important one, the green, is reading about right. 2,500 ohms is indeed around 20C and 250 ohms corresponds to approx 85C.
Have you checked that any of the brakes aren't binding? That can have a marked effect on fuel-consumption. If the engine was over-fuelling, you'd get a "long-term fuel trim" code appear in the ECU and the MIL light would illuminate.
Hi, I've got a wet carpet on the passenger side rear floor of my Peugeot 206. I'm guessing it's the door seal but what can I do if it is, are they easy to get and replace? GSF don't stock them. Would welcome any help or advice. Read more
Thanks again Lee, there's no sunroof. I don't know if they had the door apart to repair it but there was a large dent that they fixed and resprayed so they may well have. I'll have a good look on saturday. Thanks again for your help.
Hi. I recently bought a Volvo S60 to a lot of people's surprise as I am only 21! I think it's a great car for the money and I don't know why a lot of younger people are afraid of bigger cars. However I'm just wondering if anyone knows of other young people who drive an S60 or something similar - it would be interesting to find out!
Read more
First time poster here. My first car was an Vauxhall Omega Estate (hence the username) and I loved it. Loads of room in the boot, very economical for its size, and I am now a master of parallel parking! The best thing about it...learning how to drive on a beast made me a better driver.
Fond memories.
I know, I know, we have discussed this before .......
......... does a few miles per day in an average contemporary car really make much difference to the planet in the broader scheme of power generation, air travel, livestock farming, commercial air conditioning etc, and is the motorist simply a soft target for the exchequer who justify an ever increasing tax hike as the environmental cost of motoring?
Article in the DT last Thursday - 2006 will be the warmest year in the UK on record, ah global warming perhaps! So if the earth is progressively warming up perhaps the second warmest year on record was 2005, or 2004, perhaps 2003?
No it was 1959, followed by 1947 and 1976 with both 1826 and 1779 within the top 10 warmest years since records began 400 or so years ago.
Not much of a pattern emerging there it seems, however with all politicos standing (albeit rather precariously) on the top of the same environmental soap box it is apparent that the motorist is more of a sitting duck than a soft target!
Read more
8< SNIP
Comments removed as they bear no relevance to this thread. Some relevant comments after this posting may well have been deleted in the cleanup process - which were unavoidable.
And whilst I am at it, this thread is now locked because, as far as I am concerned, the subject has been exhaustively discussed.
DD.
ps, if further global warming discussions should start up and have no connection with motoring (in case you hadn't noticed, this is a motoring forum) then they will simply be deleted without notification
I have noticed not too far from me there is a camper van parked in a public road with someone staying or living in it.
Is this legal?
If it is not legal who would be responaible for dealing with it, Police/Council or Highways Authority?
Although the individual does not seem to be presenting any problem to residents and I would not have an issue with someone using it to get over some bad times (homelessness or temporary accomodation problems) I would be reluctant to see a situation where this type of accomodation is seen as a viable option in my area. Read more
My gripe would be if they were blocking road visibility or causeing litter or dare i say it members of the traveling (thieving comunity)
Car belongs to someone at work - it's a 2001model 1.8 litre. Her partner had a minor accident last weekend which knocked the lambda sensor wiring off its bracket, onto the exhaust manifold heatshield, and melted all the insulation. Her dad taped the wires up with insulating tape and re-attached the wiring to its bracket.
Co-incidentally (or not?) the engine management light has been coming on ever since. Nissan dealer charged them £40 to plug it into the computer and no fault codes were stored. Is it likely that I'm right in thinking the lambda sensor may be shorting out, sending back a dodgy signal to the ECU, and putting the orange light on?
All answers gratefully received.... Read more
Good result, sump-plug; well done, Almera. Many thanks for posting the outcome! :-)
My son has triggered the air bag light after moving the seat right back and it pulled the connector apart. Is there a simple method of resetting the light as it clearly is not a 'real' fault. Regards Peter Read more
It's best to get it sorted asap Peter, as whist the light is lit, the airbag system is switched off.
My local Tesco (Oakham, Rutland) has installed what appear to be ANPR cameras covering the one road into and out of the car park. I suppose that this will automate parking enforcement but will the Penalty Charge income exceed the cost of the system? The parking is certainly popular with people who want to shop at Tesco and walk into the town centre for other shopping.
Read more
">you get a £50 penalty<"
It's not a penalty, it's an invoice (have I said that before?)
Thanks for all your replies,hope y'all had good new year
Due to a busy new year, sorry for not getting back to you earlier.
I checked all the areas that you all suggested, all seemed solid with no movement
That was lower strut, wishbone and bushes, anti roll link bar, spring and shocker. However I noticed on passenger side, the drive shaft had a slight horizintal movement to it, only slight i.e you could move it slightly torwards to gearbox and wheel hub in either direction, maybe that could be something? Other side was fine. I have not noticed any leaks from the gearbox seal.