December 2006
Hi,
The gearbox engages but no drive when the clutch is released. I did managed to engage the gear
when the clutch lever was pulled forward manually from the clutch housing but the gears locked when the
engine was turned (released when the wheels were jacked up)
I have a problem. After speaking to a few garages in the Hertford (London) area. Not many people
want to replace my clutch on 1982 Talbot fitted with Fiat Ducato. I am considering fitting myself.
(please talk me out of it ) (-: , but seriously i havce been advised the job i n question involves approx
8 hrs. Could you please tell me:-
Other than removing the driveshafts which I believe can be difficult are there any other problems I may encounter?
Can I remove the clutch / housing without removing the engine completely?
Is there any way to engage the clutch so the vehicle can be moved to a place of repair because currently
my only option would to have the vehicle towed or relayed could not tow it with my car because the vehicle weighs two tonnes?
I have Peter Russek pocket mechanic but it doesn't tell how to remove the clutch?
Is there a manual or website which will help ru through the process.?
Thanks.
Mike.
Read more
I have now owned my Ford Focus Sport 1.8 TDCI duratorq for 3 years and during that time have had several problems with it. All of which i have returned to Brooklyn dealership to be repaired (or at least they tried)
1. Fuel guage stopped working ( They replaced the sender unit)
2. Bellowing Black smoke from exhaust ( EGR changed)
returned again for black smoke and service technician suggested it was the diesel i was using. I had to laugh never the less i gave him the benifit of the doubt and changed fuel.
tried redex treatment and this seemed to help BUT.
warrenty expired end of Nov 06 and its now Xmas and i have been towed home twice.
RAC gent seemed to think the fuel filter was blocked. I changed the filter boxing day.
Car stops suddently and glow plug warning light on the dash flashes indicating there is a problem somewhere. swearing removed - DD. give it 30 mins and it starts again for a while then nothing. no amount of turning over starts the engine.
I have read reports of a TSB detailing problems of the nature i am having suggesting the fuel pump is to blame.
I have since returned the car to the dealership and they called to say that the problem lies in the fuel rail and it will cost in excess of £600 to get fixed. I suggested that i have had an ongoing issue with the vehicle and not prepared to pay for the repair and it should be covered by warranty as the fuel problems i have had in the past have never been fixed.
He offered 35% towards bill. i refused this and he is now getting in touch with Ford Motor Co Ltd to get there advise.
I have done the same writing a letter to
The Managing Director
Ford Motor Company
Eagle Way
Warley
Essex
CM13 3BW
this is being posted recorded delivery tomorrow 28/12/06
Hopefully i will get some good news Read more
Will be around the chrome strip, sometimes actually under it (by the number plate) and also at the two top corners. You will be lucky to have got away with it, could it have been repaired before you owned it?
hi all, wondered if any one had lubricated a noisy heater fan in a 99 focus? its got very noisy since the weather turned colder. is it a sealed up unit or has someone on this fine website managed to get some oil or wd40 into the bearing?? Read more
Best one I've used is "Comma" spray grease.
Hi all, im having problems my interior rear view mirror in my Ford Ka.
One day it fell off from the top of the windscreen possibly due to the sticky stuff wearing out or something.. anyway i tried using different superglues, both don't work after repeated applications, the last time it stuck well but as soon as i adjusted the mirror it fell off again!!!
Can anybody advise on any special stuff that can be suitable for this?
Cheers.
--
Its not what you drive, its how you drive it! :-) Read more
>>.....silicone rubber, they make fish tanks with it ....
>>
I know what you mean but I have this image of the tank changing shape as the water is added. I guess its the Christmas spirit :-)
Hi All
A very Merry Christmas to one and all!!
After reading all the common rail problems and feeling rather smug with my largely fault free hdi (recently anyway, it had a new turbo just before the warranty ran out) I felt my car was down on power and seemed to surge at about 2600 rpm. I got a lend of a Bosch diagnostic system and found that two injectors were over compensating, I think the readings were 1.1, 3.6, 3.8, 1.0 for injectors 1,2,3,4 respectively. The car is a xsara 110 bhp Bosch system 106k miles. The Bosch number on the injectors finishes with 076 and they are Z I'm told their part no. is 1980 H9.
my questions:
Can I use any other part no. eg 1980 H7 X
Will getting my own injectors reconditioned be as good as buying new?
Any recommendations for new injectors and for recon work
How difficult a job is to change the injectors myself, I realise that it is critical to do it correctly.
Thanks for any advice help
Read more
I don't think they are coded into the ecu, so should go straight in ok. Other people have said that it doesn't matter what they are as long as they are all the same.
My dad done this for me last year and was advised by the guy in the motoring shop how much to put in. He can't remember the exact amount, but it was nowhere near what is stated in the manual. The manual says the cooling system capacity is 6 litres and the ratio of antifreeze to water should be 50/50, which is 3 litres of antifreeze.
Does anyone know if a smaller amount is acceptable for the coldest temperatures we seem to get in London. I currently have no antifreeze in the system as I changed the radiator a few months back and didn't get round to doing it. Read more
Water with a/f in doesn't turn straight to ice when it eventually does freeze;it goes thro' a crystalline stage first which won't do any damage to the engine.
First post and I'm hoping some knight in shining armour can help me out. I have a 6 yr old V.Agila which I've owned from new. Regular services, low mileage and always taken to main dealer for work.
However, over the last 18 months I have spent almost £2000 in an attempt to keep it on the road. In Sept 2006 I had to take the car to Vauxhall as the Engine Management Light came on - symptoms of the car playing up were..like the petrol wasn't getting through and when I put my foot down to accelerate it felt quite sluggish and then occasionally jerked into life (sorry I know absolutely zero about cars but it best describes how it was). Details on the receipt say 'carry out data checks t/code PO335 not present carry out further checks/engine control unit required first, then to be retested/replace the unit reprogramme clear codes and retest. all ok' To this day I still don't know what the fault was. Just handed over my cash.
When I got the car back it still didn't feel quite right but as the warning lights were out I thought it must be ok. For the last 2-3 weeks the engine management light has been coming on and going off intermittently and the symptoms I described above have returned with a vengence. I've got the car booked in on Wednesday at Vauxhall, but I know they are going to fob me off with another fault and not the one I've just described, whatever it was, consequently screwing me for another lump sum. They said if the control unit they replaced was faulty then Vauxhall will pay for it, if not faulty I'm looking at having to bear the cost myself (how do I prove it was faulty?). He told me the light coming on could be 1 of about 25 things which could have gone wrong. I'm totally confused. If something goes wrong with the engine does the engine control unit always need replacing. If so this could work out very expensive as the car is becoming a liability now. Or am I just being thick? Because I know nothing about cars and don't know what questions to ask (they must realise this at Vauxhall by now) I have to rely on their honesty.
Any feedback before Wednesday would be appreciated. Read more
Any update please?
I have a Honda Civic Aerodeck. A year ago the light came on and I immediately went to my Honda dealer and had it checked out, they reset it for me saying that if it came back on a new oxygen sensor would be needed. Sods law and it came back on 2 weeks later. I enquired about the price for a new one and was shocked at their quote.
Being "well in" with the garage they suggested I bought a non oe sensor and they would fit it for me. I found an inernet site which sold them for £65 , a lot less than the Honda brand and they fitted it for free!.
When it was fitted everything was ok for a few weeks until the warning light reapeared again. I contacted the dealers and they said this happpened often, saying I should all in next time it comes on. Problem is I have made a few attempts to journey to the dealers when it came on and (sods law again) each time it goes off before I get there.
I now just ignore it when it comes on as I know it will only be on for a few days.
The car runs ok, Should I be concerned?, the service manager gives me the impression I should not be, He is a genuine guy but should trust him in his judgement. Read more
mal
Now you know why Honda can continue to charge so much [£300-odd?] for their various oxy sensors - the pattern ones aren't precise enough for the ECU not to spot them and put the light on.
Sadly; this is a very common tale. Many, many garages have been down the same road. Assuming that the cause of the light turns out to be Lambda codes; 1, 43, or [the usual] 48: the only permanent answer is a genuine sensor.
Advised today that my Mondeo TD has a broken front spring, tempted whilst changing front springs to replace both shocks, car has done 117K . Any particular brands/ makes that are better than the rest? Read more
www.fordpartsuk.com/
Spring was about £44 from my local i know i phoned Saturday morning.
My 98 escort is using a very large amount of oil, a litre every 200 miles or so.
I have no intention of having the engine rebuilt or replaced, as I intend to get rid of the car next year.
Would a thicker oil help at all, or would that cause the valves to stick? as I've heard that happens on certain zetec engines, this is a 1.6 with a bare metal cam cover (I've seen some of them have a black cover, but I have no idea if this is relavant.) Read more
This car is clearly 'end of life' why worry, scrap and move on.....
Browse
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Thanks Steptoe,
Why do they make these vehicles really difficult to work on. I own a Passat and I had a struggle to remove the
air filter today. I only wanted the measurements to order a new one... still that is another story. To be honest
I would have liked a Transit Motorhome. You know where you are with them and I believe they are still rear wheel drive. I think the mileage is about 80,000 miles but it has several owners who seem to use it and it has suffered neglect and years of pathcing upo. The roof leaked like a sieve and the water logged ceiling had to be replaced.
The only serious problem has been the clutch. The starter has been rebuilt due to intermittent problems with the bendix and the battery was palying up a little other than that it hasn't been to bad.
The plan is to refurb the the vehicle but due to the council blocking my path (council estate) we have not
achieve this yet. We have no where to repair or refurb it now. It is a catch 22 situation. Can't tow it due to the size, can't repair it easily due to no place to take it to and have to return it back to reasonable standard
before we can sell it.
We haven't spent that much on it. The roof is done which had to be covered in vinyl and now we have
the ceiling partially covered now we do not have the leaks.
I would still prefer a Transit though (-:
Mike.