December 2006
Hi there every-one. I am thinking of buying a cheap code reader for my 1999 dawoo matiz. How do they work, are they any good and usefull to have ? Which one is the best, and which model would work on my matiz. I have no faults on it at the moment, apart from the wet floor saga (see post) Just wondered if they are worth having, also, how does one interpret the codes it gives out ? Thanks in advance for any help, comments, and advice, Cheers, Graham.
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Grateful for any feedback with regards to this rather nice motor car. Thinking of purchasing one. Read more
Incidentally, although I would never do this on a regular basis, I happen to know that my box will quite happily shift into first from upwards of 10mph, even when freezing cold, without complaint. Synchros seem perfectly strong to me -- the works Astra (nearly new) couldn't achieve that.
The weird thing is, the noises I was experiencing before I fixed by gearchange practice, exclusively happened when changing up the gears, where the synchro barely has to work at all. Changing down, good as gold.
Was looking at a 1996 automatic volvo 850 GLT. When i started it up the engine was running fine. The 'lamba' light on the dashboard was on. Does this mean it is time to replace the sensor or is the sensor faulty. have been told that after so many miles the light comes on to say service it or replace it.
Also when the engine has warmed up and the engine rev comes down it is running a bit lumpy. When i engage drive or reverse i have to press hard on the footbrake to stop it moving. It seems it is pushing the car to go forward. i have driven automatics and know that when you engage drive the car will creep forward and not leap forward.
I have walked away from that car but want to know the cause of the problem so i am 'wiser' when i look at another volvo
which would you recommend? volvo 850/v70 or saab 9000/9-5. willing to spend up to £3000. Prefer the olde models because they tend to be more reliable with less electronic gizmos to go wrong.
thanks in advance Read more
I had an older SAAB 9000 and it was a lovely car, and a real SAAB (not GM). Very spacious, comfortable, and possibly it had the most comfortable sets in the world, but I was really passion, and the car was not as reliable as my old SAAB 900 classic.
They are very cheap now and Europarts helps to keep it on the road much cheaper than SAAB, who use to charge a fortune for the smallest part. My Mercedes W124 is much more reliable.
£3,000 is in that tricky zone where to be honest you must be a bit of a DIY man, otherwise every little problem is a worry as SAAB charge a fortune per hour, and replace everything. A good independant might help. Many of the SAAB clubs and websites suggest these are good till 90-100,000 miles and then too many bits go.
I also cant help feeling that £3000 will buy an great deal of Primera that should be loaded with toys and very reliable.
cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2700...n
Quote:
"From the US. You people drive cars that are way too small. I think I may have a car just like the one you are selling stuck in the tread of the
tire on my Pickup truck. It cause a small vibration around 75 mph. Steve
Steve, hi. And I may live in a house the same size as the ass you?re sat upon. No, only joking. The house isn?t that big. But it?s been fun trading national stereotypes with you."
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Yes i read that myself, but i didn't laugh though, don't know why?
--
Its not what you drive, its how you drive it! :-)
What does auctioneer mean, (when info on windscreen states the car has no documents present) that documents have been passed on to trade. Thanks
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Can be repossessed,recovered stolen.I got a M/c once with no documents;went to the local Car Tax office,filled out a form with reg.number,chassis number and engine number ,came back with insurance certificate and Mot and got tax disc immediately,logbook followed 2/3 weeks later.
"Land Rover have redesigned the K series 1.8 head gasket and upgraded the lower rail that the head bolts screw into.
The head gasket has lost it's elastomeric beads and now has a laminated type of construction and the lower rail is beefed up - it must have an effect upon the clamping load. Head torque figures remain unchanged"
Just a littel tit-bit I saw on another website - Im no mechanic but atleast they are still working on it eh. Read more
www.austin-rover.co.uk/index.htm?essaykseriesf.htm
K-series can still be more than a match for the competition, should have fixed the problems earlier though :-(
Hi, got a leak from the union from the high pressure PAS pipes where they join the PAS steering rack. is this gonna just be a case of replacing the solid plastic O rings in each of the pipes? I assume all the PAS fluid will end up on the floor as well when i remove the hp pipes
picture of problem
img219.imageshack.us/img219/92/pasqm5.jpg
thanks in advance Read more
Hello everyone I just got some alloy wheels "Race Line 3 studs".
My car is a citroen saxo spree 1.0i, it has 3 studs and currently 13inch wheels.
The new alloys are 15 inch, my question is do I need spacers? or can I just replace them like normal?
Closure Read more
Sorry meant to add, if those are your tyre sizes posted by Simon, then they will be fine for diameter.
I have recently had my car converted to run on LPG by a certified garage
the car is a 2004 jag x type 3 litre
the problem is
1) the engine cuts out very rarley when slowing down and generally after long journey
2) when switched over to petrol after running on gas there can be sudden power loss
garage has done 2 software upgrades
anyone any idea what problem could be?
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Hi Guys
thanks for all your help, garage finally got this sorted and threw in a free service to make up for inconvenience!
Turns out sorftware was faulty so the deleted it all and reinstalled it, also fuel pressure sensor was faulty so it would loose power on petrol replace that now i have a 3.0 V6 with bags of power that does 230 miles on 20 pounds worth of fuel!!
Well worth it
Kush
Can anyone provide clarity on the theory (or the spurious claim) that starting the car on a cold frosty morning and leaving it to warm up and defrost/demist itself is actually bad for the engine?
I have heard contradictory anecdotes - and I'm sure that I read that for a diesel engine in particular it is not good to leave idling for too long but better to run at 'normal' revs from start.
I'm not talking about hours anyway, probably about 5 mins max.
BTW as I understand it, it is not legal to do this if the car is left on a public highway but presumably you're ok on the drive.
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Funny thing is, it's clearing much quicker now. Must be that it was left unused for a few weeks and has dried out inside now.
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Hi there glowplug, many thanks for the info, cheers, graham.