August 2006
When travelling at speed, mainly above 50 mph, and If I brake quite heavily, I get a LOT of wobble in the steering wheel. I've only had the car one month, and didn't notice this until I was on the M1 and had to brake from speed because of a queue of cars ahead. It's not minor judder, it's very pronounced and before I go in to the dealer, I'd like to know what others think may be the cause. I'd like to go in there armed with some knowledge to avoid being ripped off. Thanks. Read more
Friend needs a new car. Has a budget of 5k. Wants an auto that's reliable. I have suggested a Civic 1.6 auto- are there any other cars worth looking at, at this price level?
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Almera would be first choice, other suggestions are a Civic (expensive though), Corolla, Mazda 323 (if you can find one), or maybe even a Suzuki Liana if it's to your taste (also hard to find). Hyundais and Kias in this price range would be good enough, but would depreciate heavily.
An Astra might not be too bad, depending on mileage and SH (good gearboxes, but Ecotec engines have problems). How about A Citroen Xsara?
Be much more cautious with European cars, but anything with a conventional torque-converter auto (except a renault) should be as reliable as the equivalent manual. Don't buy CVT.
Gangs are deliberately braking hard in front of lorries to cause rear-end shunts, so they can claim the insurance. Be warned.
www.mirror.co.uk/news/tm_objectid=17647209%26metho...l Read more
To my knowledge, a London Police Force (yes, there are 2) is investigating organised car insurance fraud. In addition, I am aware that the FSA gave the insurance industry a boot up its backside when it tried to put premiums up to cover fraud costs. The industry was told to employ fraud investigators instead. Guess where old retired fraud squad officers end up to supplement their pension?
I have a '94 Rover 414 which exhibits the following problem:
Driving along when a complete loss of power occurs. Ignition remains on (and all electronic equipment works) but pressing accelerator doesn't give power. Changing down gears just slows the car faster, until eventually it comes toa halt. If you then depress the clutch or take it out of gear it will tick over apparently normally, although maybe a little rough. If you tap the accelerator the revs dip, and if you press it enough it will stall. Leaving the engine running for a while, or turning off and re-starting it straight away, doesn't cure it. It needs to be left off for a minute or two before restarting and then it's fine - will revv up and drive off.
When it is not playing silly beggars it runs well. There is usually the odd hiccup of power going off then coming back again, which warns you that it will probably soon cut out completely. The power loss is clean - not like spluttering/misfiring.
Any ideas what is causing it?!
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CPS is the most likely to cause it,or possibly coil failure
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Steve
hi hope someone can help . my old girl has started to play me up its a carlton 1800 .
starting up when she feels like it and then cuts out , when she does decide to run its a low powerd effort from her .no load she ticks over nice (sometimes).took air filter off and was easier to start but the carb spat out and sometimes smokes up , but when she wont start i take out plugs and there wet there is a great spark at each plug.
what i have done is changed the rotor arm new (made sure this went on right way)
distributer cap new
leads new
oil and filter change
erm im pulling my hair out this is the first time she has let me down in anyway in 6years from what i can tell the carburator is a piperburg (think thats how its spelt)
all help is desperatly need as my wifes doin her nut at me . Read more
Glad to hear it's all sorted!
Number_Cruncher
Indicators and hazards packed up tonight. They are run off seperate fuses so I'm doubting its a fuse problem
Does everything point to a flasher unit? Do the hazards and flashers typically run off one flasher unit? I'm trying to get some clues before having a look in the morning. Many thanks Read more
thanks Mike.
Anybody???
I've just had the dash off and theres a row of what I would call relays. I made sure they were all in tight, tried the indicators and flashers and they worked. When the flashers etc are working, the blue relay is clicking in sync so I'm assuming thats the flasher unit???. Even if I now pull that blue relay/ unit out a bit the flashers etc still work so the problem wasn't being caused by a loose connection as when I pressed them all in they were all in tight anyway.
In the light of this - whats making my flashers etc fail? does the relay heat up and fail when hot only or something like that? Vehicles done 97K btw.
Can anyone give me some pointers on this a bit quick??!! Many thanks
ok i remember i looked into this a few years back and osram and phillips 50% more bulbs were the best value replacement bulbs for those seeking better out put
our new to us mk4 golf has terrible lights, and i would like to improve them best i can...are the above brands still the ones to go for? i notice theres loads of no name ones on ebay making similar claims
any suggestions on how to further improve them for sensible ££ , im not intrested in zenons or fancy colored bulbs Read more
If it has 2 bulbs for dip/main i would expect them both to be h7
h1 would logically be for a built in fog light as suggested. i think !
Last weekend I drove about 100 miles, sometimes really pushing the car on the motorway (since I could, but another story) and reached an indicated 95mph. Upon getting to my destination my GF noticed some very fine wire like stuff that was clumped together like cotton wool coming out of my exhaust pipe. I pulled on this and about 2 meters came out before the 'thread' broke and I was left with 2 peices. 1 peice on the ground and another peice going up into the exhaust to who knows where. I was just wondering if anyone could help tell me what this wire is, what I may have done to my car and the effect on emissions will be? Read more
Thanks Number_Cruncher, very helpfull.
The blower motor on my girlfriends 92 Orion CFi has stopped working. After extensive dismantling I have traced the fault to somewhere between the relay R26, which has an output as measured at the terminal of the fuseboard/box and the fuse F14 for the blowermotor which has no output. The Haynes book doesn't give any info as to how the fusebox is wired or how to remove it. Is the fusebox a PC type affair, is it wired with cable or what. Is it possible to remove it and trace the fault between the relay and fuse or should I rig up a link via an inline fuse between the relay and the Bl/R connector to the blowermotor switch. Any help or advice concerning this issue welcome Read more
This sounds like the common fault with Escort fuseboxes.These are repairable,usually dry solder joints, but will need to be dismantled.It may be quicker and easier to carry out a by-pass repair circuit with an inline fuse.
having a problem with one rear door it doesnt want to unlock all the time.anyone have any ideas. how does the door panel come of so that i can gain access to the lock. dave. Read more
thanks for that its still under warranty so main dealer can have a crack .just thought that if it was simple i would have a go myself.got the panel of and as you say impossable after that. thanks dave.
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Ok, good useful tool but not everybody is going to want one!
I think we are just trying to ascertain if it is wheel bearing or not just yet though.
Agree about good visual inspection, but not sure if Op is diy type yet either,.
Not meant offensively or rude btw