Hi folks,

Has anyone any suggestions for clutch slip on a Terrano II 2.7TDi. Car was bought online form UK company (found out it was built in France for sale in Cyprus).

It's a 53 plate with 24K miles. Symptom is clutch slips (4th / 5th gear after around 2000 - 2200RPM with foot to the floor). Doesn't do it from cold (takes 1/2 an hour driving or more to show), no better/worse towing or 4WD.

First noticed problem at 11K miles, got worse and by 13K miles (Nissan dealer replaced clutch under warranty at 13K but stated clutch hardly had any wear). Noticed slip again at 21K miles, went away, came back again at 23K miles (last month Nissan dealer checked clutch control set-up/tolerances and was in spec, then raised High Tech inquiry with Nissan). Just back from towing in France and clutch OK again!

Other things:
What is a clutch damper? (and why does the 3rd thicker pipe in the block dissapear all the way to the rear offside wheel well)?

Could heat / cold be allowing pressure to build up which is partially activating the slave cylinder?

Is it normal to be able to feel substantial heat at bottom of gearstick after driving at motorway speeds for a while?

Problem is my warranty runs out in 5 days and I've still not heard back from Nissan (anyone know what rights I might have at this stage?).

Any ideas??

Thanks,
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Good morning at this horrifically early hour.

As you may or may not remember, around the end of June, I took my car to get it's aircon regassed having thought myself lucky to only be experiencing problems with it after 6 years. According to the invoice it was degassed, vacuum tested, UV Dye injection, oil injection, regassed and tested. It certainly was regassed because up until yesterday it was blowing out jets of ice cold air. (The best kind of air).

However, guess what, now it isn't. Now it's warm air. Having it on recirculated air makes it twice as powerful so it's usually always on that but nope - nothing. Turning off the recirculation, the air seems to get marginally colder but that could just be me. It's still far too warm in any event.

Now the work is guaranteed for 3 months or 3,000 miles. As long as I take it back soonish, I'll fall within the mileage limit. My question is, is there any point? What I mean is, surely something horrendously expensive like an evaporator, condensor or something is leaking and not to put too fine a point on it, my bank balance is in minus figures - much as I love cold air, there's no way I could justify the cost of replacing something expensive when things like tyres are more important. I realise I'm asking for a remote diagnosis which is probably nigh on impossible but is there any chance the loss of gas (I'm assuming it's all gone) is down to a hose or something? Or for it to have gone in such a short time, is something bigger likely?

Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Donations to the Adam Air-Conditioning Fund can be made payable to:

Me



Thanks,

Adam
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I'll start it off..........1979 Rover 2600 SD1auto

went well for the 2.6 (couldn't afford the insurance on a V8)..... but My God did it fall apart. Once looked in the spare wheel well and it was FULL of water. Windscreen nearly fell out, cos the rubber had perished so much; leaked like a sieve; door mirror fell off (all of it).etc,etc......... truly awful build quality.

Why did i buy it? Young and naive. Read more

hi
my mate has a peugot 406 hdi turbo diesel about 100k miles, v reg. he has had a loss off power for the last few months as if the turbo is not working at low revs? I have heard that the esr valve can get coked up on some deisel turbo's and cause this, does anyone have any idea's ? or where the egr valve is situated? or where the turbo is situated.
thanks in advance. Read more

So here's the scenario.....

Driving along a national speed limit dual carriageway at 80 in the outside lane. On the inside lane are various lorries, all doing 65 - 70, spaced out at perhaps 200 - 300 yards apart. There are other cars ahead of me in the outside lane doing the same speed as me. I am keeping to the 2 second rule (or more), so they are some way ahead. I don't try to catch up with them as I am happy doing 80, and anyway, there are the occasional speed cameras on this road.

In theory, I suppose I should be pulling into the inside lane after each lorry, then pulling out again to overtake the next one. But I just sit in the outside lane, gradually overtaking each lorry. Why? Well, I know that, if I move to the inside, those behind me in the outside lane will just speed up to close the gap I was maintaining, I will rapidly catch up to the next lorry and then have to squeeze back into the outside lane. So all I do is lose places in the 80 mph queue in the outside lane, and find it difficult to overtake the next lorry.

I feel justified in sitting in the outside lane in these circumstances, and wouldn't have minded if one car behind had got annoyed - but actually about 4 or 5 got irritated at different times, with several tailgating me and two undertaking (one being a Ferrari, who then swerved in front of me to avoid a lorry).

Am I right, or have I turned into one of those dreadful outside lane hoggers who we all despise so much? My wife was with me in the car, and all she says is that I shouldn't have been breaking the speed limit which I don't think is a particularly helpful reply. Driving at 80 in those circumstances seems to be perfectly safe (of course, not if other drivers tailgate / undertake me!)

One other point....I did make a mistake and pulled out in front of a car to overtake a lorry. I wanted to say sorry and so put up my hand when the other car overtook me. Is this the right thing to do? It's just that any hand gesture can be easily mistaken for an insult. What is the best way to apologise?

Look forward to hearing your honest verdicts on my driving...... Read more