Hi,
As autumn is not too far away and the weather will be getting cold and damp I though its best to waxoul my car.
I was going to buy the 2.5ltr circular can and a high pressure sprayer frm boyes.
Is this kit good....has anyone any experience of it?
Any tips on how to apply waxoyl?.....its the first time im attempting it!
How many litres will I need approx on the car?
Do I spray underneath the car or di i do the door shuts, insides if wheel arches, insides of front wings etc?
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Well the MG Owners club sell a 5 ltr kit for an MG so 2.5 litres isn't going to do much. SFAIK it is only for use in hollow box sections and is applied by drilling a hole, spraying the gunge in and then plugging the hole with one of the supplied grommets. If you put it in a wheel arch it will just wash off the first time you go on a wet road.
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I used to put it on with a painbrush but I now dilute it with white spirit and use a paraffin gun.
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The plastic guns that they used to supply were not really upto it. They may however have improved them.
In these temperatures it will spray easily , (one tip is to warm the can in a bucket of hot water before using) or dilute before spraying with white spirit at lower temperatures. The best sprayers are the old brass bodied garden sprays that you can find at many car boot sales and these are great multi function adddition to any tool box, once they have been modified with bespoke suction nozzzles made out of copper brake pipe soldered into the replacebale noses!.
I have still got the remains of 5 x 5l litre cans that cost me a total of £5 from a carboot sale, and it gets used to coat anything that will be exposed. I dont believe it just washes off once it has dried ,altho coating of a wheel arch maybe asking a little too much where there is high velocity water.
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pmh (was peter)
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The main difficulty in using Waxoyl is its tendency to go waxy and block up the spray nozzle. Even in warm weather it is worth standing the tin in hot water for a few hours before use. When you have finished turn the tin upside down, blast out all residual fluid in the pipe, and then depressurise and remove the sliding nozzle assembly and clean out in white spirits. Remember where you put it for next time.
The black kind seems to have more sticking power, but that may just be psychological because it will certainly stick well to you and your clothes.
I find it is effective on the outside, under wheel arches etc, if sprayed on to recently-painted underseal. It partly dissolves the underseal, and helps to keep the combined mess more tacky and therefore less likely to flake off.
I have always found the so-called extension probe to be useless. It is exactly what it looks like - a nail stuck in the end of a bit of pipe, and just as inefective. The only answer for remote box sections, cills etc is to drill new access points and fit plugs afterwards.
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mix old engine oil and thick ex mining grease everywhere its for pennies and sticks like the proverbial.
Waxoil is ideal under bonnet etc
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I waxoiled my Xantia yesterday. I don't bother drilling holes in car to inject the wax, I use any existing holes and if there aren't any holes it doesn't get waxed. I find it's great around the wheel arches and underbody. Usually I stand the tin in a bucket of hot water (with a drop of washing up liquid) for about 15 mins before I want to spray. When doing the arches I remove the wheels and put a carrier bag over hub to protect the brakes, also a big dust sheet to catch over spray and any run off. I find that about 5Ltrs should do a full car. Also be wary of where you park in hot weather for the first few times after treatment, I've come back to my previous cars to find melted waxoyl beneath it. I waxed inside the panels on a previous car but I wouldn't do this again - that car still smells 4 years later.
Never had it wash off yet. Seems to be longer lasting than underseal when I've used it.
Steve.
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Xantia HDi.
Buy a Citroen and get to know the local GSF staff better...
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I use Hammerite Waxoyl on my 20 year old Mazda and the MOT tester said its one of the tidiest looking, not to mention solid undersides of an old car he had seen in years. He bemoaned the lack of care people take to the underside of their cars these days.
I just paint it on after a good jetwash and brush round. Took me about 4 hours. If you do paint it on, make sure ya put plenty of newspaper on ground as I made a right mess of my parents driveway! :)
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You used to be able to buy it in aerosol form, although I also had a 5lt can available.
Ideal for coating ignition leads and distributors to prevent damp getting in during the winter on older cars.
Another use I found was for door seals - applying a light film on each seal all the way round where contact is made and also on the door frame seals ensured that any noise caused by wind/air pressure was dramatically reduced. The Waxoyl created seals wee only lightly sticky and doors could easily be opened and closed without damaging their efficiency..
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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I've used both waxoyl and the grease + oil method (I use new cheap oil though). I've found that if you put waxoyl on top of metal that is already rusty it tends to form a layer over the top and traps moisture underneath. If you are treating metal that is already rusting then I would use thinned down waxoly so it soaks in or the cheaper method of grease + oil. Both of these methods seem to work quite well although the waxoyl does seem to last a bit longer. I think waxoyl is best for new cars to prevent rust, for older cars I think the oil and grease method is best.
Its a subject I'm interested in as the owner of a 22 year old toyota that has a reputation for dissolving into rust at the first sign of water.
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The tips mentioned above for warming it in a bucket of hot water are fine but do not go beyond this method.
Years ago I was in a Hospital and talking to a chap who had the most dreadful burns.
His son had been heating a 5 ltre can of Waxoyl with I think an hot air gun.
He took over for some reason and while he was heating the can it exploded with disastrous results. The Waxoyl stuck to him and burnt him very badly particularly on his face.
And this poor man was so grateful that it had been himself and not his son.
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I have used both Waxoyl and agree with Moonshine's comments. I find Dinitrol far more effective on rusted parts as it appears to soak through and prevent further rust : not forming a skin like waxoyl does. It also dries to a less "washed away by water jets" consistency.
I buy Dinitrol spray cans from Halfords - who appear to have discontinued stocking it so my last canister was reduced.. a brand name I like:-)
I still use Waxoyl but experience on Mini seams suggests it MUST be thinned with whit spirit, it must be heated first in hot water and it must be done on a hot day in the sun with the car warm. Fail any of those and it does not flow freely inside seams /cills and just sits in blobs.
I know: I had to cut off old cills after 5 years and weld new ones on. Waxoyl burns with heat:-(
Dinitrol is imo eminently superior in flowing/rust stopping and lasting abilities - and more expensive so I use both.
madf
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I am afraid all waxoyl does is block up water drain holes and trap water against metal.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I've used a variety of rustproofing treatments over the last 30 years and I'm not a terrific fan of Waxoyl. It tends to 'sit' on rust rather than actually halting it.
I use Dinitrol which I find works much better - they do a cavity wax and also a wash-resistant black-wax for the exposed underside. Its not cheap though (about £10 a litre). Try this place: www.rust.co.uk
For a cheap alternative try Morris Lubricants' 'Ankor Wax' - much used by farmers for coating their combines before winter lay-up. I pay £13 for 5 litre. Its thinner than Waxoyl and works well in box-sections.
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Hello moonshine.
I can't say that Waxoyl is the best, but I did have a Celica Supra which was filled with Waxoyl wherever I could get it in - I expect the bits of plastic tube I lost are in it yet - and I parted with it to an enthusiast for these cars who actually asked to buy it. I think that Waxoyl can do good. Other things may well do better, but I would not recommend no treatment at all!
Toad the Mk IV Supra is only allowed out in the dry!
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Just be aware that many new cars use water based seam sealants that are disolved by petroleum based products.
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Another vote for Dinitrol. Waxoyl doesn't penetrate well, Dinitrol does, but it is much more expensive.
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