July 2006
Hello. I have just bought a Renault 5 1.4 Campus 1993 for my daughter (23000 miles 1 owner drives like new). The automatic choke/ enrichment will not shut off and the tickover is about 2000revs plus . I understand that this was common on that model. Can anybody give me advice?.
PS Hello to everybody from Sunny Wales as I am new to the forum. Read more
I have recently purchased a:
VW Passat S TDi PD (130) Automatic 2005 (05) which has covered just 11000 miles.
My question is with regards to Fuel Economy, I have the computer on board which works out the MPG whilst driving and on average until reset at every refill.
This car is driven 75% around town and 25% on a run and only seems to be returning 320 miles to a full tank of diesel (last fill up was 54.00 litres) and the computer works it out to be an average of only 30 'ish MPG and 320 miles covered - seems a tad low to me ??
My previous Passat was the S TDi (115) Automatic (W reg) and this had done nearly 90,000 miles and was returning 360 - 400 miles to a tank of fuel - but had no computer for working out the MPG only the "trip" for the mileage - which makes me think ??
Does any one else have this same spec car by any chance ?? What do you get ??
Not sure if true or not, but I have been told the economy increases as the mileage does ?
I have got the car booked in for a general "check-up" next week to ensure no obvious problems that could be causing this issue....
In the meantime, any ideas greatfully recieved.
Regards Read more
Mine is the 115 TDI PD Sport (pre-facelift) model from 2000 with 5 speed manual box.
I've had the car from new and the average MPG has NEVER dropped below 50.0 MPG average (over 100 hours driving time) since I've had it.
Most journeys are non-stop motorway including Liverpool to Bournmouth in under 4 hours!
I suspect like an earlier post, it is the combination of auto box and town driving.
Can someone confirm the head bolt settings for my 99 Passat 1.8 20V non turbo (ADR Engine). The Haynes manual says it's a 4 stage process: 45 nm. then 60 nm, then 90 Degrees (1/4 turn) , then another 90 degrees. However a friend who has worked on VW's says it's 45Nm then you can just do 180 degrees in one go. Is he correct, is it 60Nm then 180 degrees, or is it the Haynes settings? Which is correct as I know from past experience that Haynes don't always get engine codes correct ! Read more
my info (autodata) says 45nm, 60nm, 90, 90.
But ask the supplier of the gasket/bolts? You are using new bolts?
I have a 2002 passat pdi 130 which continually throws up warning lights for the esp and abs and a more alarming one of "ENGINE WORKSHOP" at random and regular intervals. When checked on the computer none of the alarms are "real" the car runs great but this is most irritating , anyone got any ideas??
Stuart
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Had similar problems on mine when I first got it. Ending up with ECU being changed (under warranty!)
Hi,
I know this is an easy dit for most of you.
Can you tell me to change engine coolant on a car.
Car in question is Audi Coupe 1984 B reg.
Any tips suggestions to do a good job.
How long will it take.
Cheers Read more
My parents have an 04 reg Grand Cherokee which accoding to the main dealer (I hate those two words) will need a set of front pads soon....... at £300 plus the dreaded... Surely other than a large socket to remove the wheels these are no different to any other pad change?!? Unless you guys know different?!? Many Thanks, Stuart
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Our RRP for these pads is £48.69 +vat.
Does anyone know of a reasonable solution for cooling in the hot weather for those of us without a/c as standard? Is there anything on the market which might plug into the lighter socket and give a hint of cooling the cab? Any thoughts most welcomed, cheers.....phew whatascorcher! Read more
oldman wrote:
ive got one in my transit bought from a £1 shop......cant remember how much it was though.
You wuz robbed. Competition's so intense in Coventry there's a 99p shop just down from the £1 shop.
How do you turn an airbag off on a 97 Passat TDi,in order to fit a baby seat on the passenger side? Read more
Quinny
VW make quite a performance out of this: they're clearly paranoid about litigation. First you have to get the special form from your dealer and fill in all the requested info, which is then centrally registered against the car's VIN in their database.. Then they permit a named authorized person to access and update the airbag configuration, disconnect the passenger bag and fit a special resistor that they supply to the harness. Best left to the dealer - if they'll even do it.
About 2 weeks ago accelerating onto the motorway the car cut out TOTALLY, around 3500-3700 revs, the esp/abs deactivated came up on the little screen, then the engine cut out with an anti pollution fault, the car would not start, I left it for a couple of minutes then the car started, giving me the anti pollution fault and the engine management light on.
I've had the filter/pump changed inside the tank + the regular fuel filter which had little iron/brass filings in for £500.00 (ow !!)
The fault returned within an hour as above.
I have read other threads re reprogramming, I've taken it to an independant garage, should I forget about them and take it to the dealer ?
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Try www.bba-reman.com/forums/Forum1-1.aspx
and use the search function and put in "1112"
There are several hdi posts, tend to talk about the injection pump failing and putting metal fragments into the fuel.
Have developed a noise from rear of car - on peering into look at the brakes have noticed one completely worn down whilst other looks new. Is this uneven wear likely to be due to a seized caliper and does anyone know if it's a big job to fix.
I'd also be interested to know whether this is likely to be covered under a manufacturer warranty or likely to be fair wear and tear - the warranty document (as always) is somewhat unclear. Have had car for 4 months and it's done 19,000 miles and is just over 3 years old (has 1 year Honda extended warranty). It's going to the main dealers tomorrow and I'm interested to know the likely problem.
Regards and thanks in advance Read more
(been away sorry for delay)
Sounds exactly like I was told when I had a Toyota, when a new pad was put in place - it was OK, no seizing.
After 2 years problem re-appeared, so I stripped the caliper down myself and found a very thin tear at the base of the piston seal. When a new pad was in pace the rubber seal was pushed down so tight it was difficult for road spray to get into the piston. The dealer had inspected it in the past, but it was such a small rip (3mm) it was only noticeable at full stretch with the caliper taken off the car ( 1hour +)
Once the pads were worn, the top of the piston got rusty and would seize slightly.
Anyway it is better to get a mechanic to look at it now (should not cost much just to look) to confirm that when the piston is out as far as it can safely go that there are no rips or tears in the piston seals or the caliper guide boots / seals. If it is ripped, it is not too expensive to repair. If it isn't then check on a daily basis that one brake is not hotter than its opposite.
- S.
Browse
And while you are there, ask them to check if it has the latest available clutch cable mechanism. These things used to eat clutch cables.
Saying that. the wife loved hers and I thought it a real hoot to drive
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