April 2006
Hi, I know there have been some similar posts regarding toyota alarms here and in other forums but nothing suggested works. I cannot disarm the alarm on my Toyota Landcruiser. Its a 1996 model with Toyota's TTDS 5000 system II according to the handbook. The alarm was tripped and subsequently flattened a new battery. Prior to that the remotes were working ok. Now neither remote works even with new batteries. I have tried a number of solutions with no effect. I can drive it by turning on ignition and disconnecting and reconnecting battery, but alarm arms when key is removed. My local Toyota dealer no help just told me to recover it to them. They told me that there was no way of getting it going!!!!
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Hi all - hope someone can help.
I have a BMW 316i and the main headlamp bulb has blown. I am a complete novice when it comes to cars and need some advice/help.
I would like to change the bulb myself. does anyone know which bulb i need (it is the main bulb that has gone). Also how do i get to the bulb - can i get in from the under the bonnet or will i have to remove the front?
Thanks
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Sorry not sure what difference is between main mean and dip beam.
When you're on main beam, a blue light will appear on your dash. When you have cars approaching you from the other direction, you should be on dip beam to prevent dazzling them.
Hope that clears up the difference for you.
I have a 1999 Renault Laguna which sits low at the rear.This condition is made worse when carrying luggage etc. Can the torsion bars be adjusted at all or will they need replacing and if so, how much should i be prepared to pay?
thanks broc. Read more
They can be adjusted up or down, but it's not too simple a job. The torsion bars can be siezed in place and take a bit of shifting.
Have a look here to see if you'll manage it on your own - www.performancerenaults.com/forum/template.php?pag...6
I know this one is being lowered, but you'll just do the opposite to whats being done.
My offside headlight bulb died last night and I need to fit a new (normal) one. The handbook tells me I need a qualified mechanic to undertake this difficult and dangerous job.
As you can imagine I don't really want to spend much so how easy is it as a DIY job and has anybody done it? Read more
If it's a loose connection, then surely can have it looked at under warranty ;-)
Dear All,
I have a 1999 85k mile Rover 620ti - a quick well equipped car which cost 20k new. Its maybe worth £1300 (good condition)
A what point would most people call it quits on a car and sell/part ex it for a newer one? I am thinking that its cheaper to keep repairing this one than splash out 12/13k (say) on a newer equivalent that wont need the same kind of up-keep. Todays cars dont rust away like they used to so it will physically still be around for years. I've recently spent £500 on the gearbox/clutch and alternator.
Thing is, when the car breaks down expensively at this price level, it could be rendered virtually worthless if its not repaired and I wouldnt want to walk away from it and lose all its value. Read more
"To my mind, cars are becoming 'throw away' commodities like white goods and consumer electronics. Not only are we killing the planet with the bits we leave behind, but we're also destroying people's sense of value and self restraint"
Agree 100% with your post, C5. What we have to do is bridge the gap between the car's parts becoming obsolete, and the model becoming a classic and spawning an owners' club.
I?ve got a 1992 rover 827 v6 and it?s giving out white smoke (well steam really) at start up. This clears up and disappears completely after a few minutes. The classic explanation is that it?s the head gasket or a crack in the head and it?s time to rip the engine to pieces.
However, there is no oil in the coolant, the coolant level has stayed stable, the oil looks like it could do with a good change but there is no mayonnaise or froth. The engine runs fine (smooth, linear power) and isn?t down on power. The engine doesn?t overheat (or come even close to it).
If you really rev the car hard you can get a few drops of liquid to come out of the exhaust when it?s just started. I stuck a jar behind the car and collected it. It smells like oily water and not anti freeze. The exhaust smells of exhaust (and yes it will give you a headache)
A couple of lesser known suggestions I came across on the web were either having a worn out fuel filter and water in the tank, although surely white smoke would come out all the time. Alternatively it could be the car sucking auto transmission fluid up from the box, but wouldn?t this be seriously toxic and also surely it would continue all the time the car was running?
Finally could it be the catalytic converter? This looks pretty old and the converter is designed to output carbon dioxide and water, so is this just left over from the last time the car was run.
Any suggestions?
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>>Remember it's a big engine that takes a lot of warming up
Not the engine warming up thats the problem,IIRC ecu tends to run injection a bit on lean side, so although its running on so called choke or rich, it runs in between although engine is cold it produces more water in exhaust.
I have had both auto and manual in past plus those that I have worked on,not one has not done this,has also not caused any problems except after startup for several minutes then worn off.
but the silencers do get filled with water if car is not taken for a decent run to heat up and evaporate the water.
As a matter of interest rovers all and other makes do this except the driver when driving does not notice
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Steve
Anyone know how to take the freeplay/slack from this gearbox at the gearlever? The TDI I have suffers from a very 'sloppy' shift. Read more
Whilst checking my tyre pressures today, I noticed that there was a small lip at the bottom surface of where the pad meets the disc.It also appears that the rear pads have less material on them than the fronts.Is this usual? I always thought that the fronts (on a FWD) should wear down quicker.i don't drive particularily hard (honest!).The car has covered 26K miles and its still the original pads/discs on the car.I expected to be changing the fronts in a few 'K'.On this subject,what pads would anyone recommend? Read more
The lip you mention is,presumably,on the disc-it is wear so you may need new discs soon.Mintex,Ferodo or GM pads should be fine,although the GM pads I fitted to an Omega recently were made in India,the owner complained of squealing which has not been curable,so possibly not of the quality they should be.
1993 Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 auto
I've had a "groaning" noise from my autobox when in neutral for some time and now this occurs in park also, usually when the engine has been warmed up.
The fluid is topped-up and a good colour.
Can anybody shed any light on the source/problem? The box works fine (grabs tree), and is silent in drive or through the gears. I am happy to live with it so long as it doesn't lead to something sinister. With the car on 115,000 I was hoping for quite a few more miles from it given their high mileage reputation.
Thanks in advance. Read more
My local Ford dealer is having a sale where they are promising fantastic reductions on the approx 200 cars they have.The advert promises no haggling,special prices,bargains etc. but only one car per customer as they are so cheap! I thought I'd better take a look! WHAT A RIP OFF! All they have done is take about £500 off the prices. OK, thats not bad if the car is £1995 but as their stock is mainly comprised of 6 months to a year old top end mondeos/focuses at£13 to £18k,I can see another super sale next week.Just as I left, I saw a salesman look at a 2 year old mondeo priced at£17995 and then wrote on the screen,wait,yes, a bargain £17695!
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I saw a salesman look at a 2 year old mondeo
priced at£17995 and then wrote on the screen,wait,yes, a bargain £17695!
Look at it another way. That's £300 less profit. If they did that on all the deals they do their year-end financial statement wouldn't be anywhere near as good. Like any other business they are in it to make money. Just like you when you negotiate your wage and take your wage packet!
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L\'escargot.
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Just a thought - don't forget to tell your insurers if you remove or change your immobiliser - could just be the get-out they need to avoid paying out on a claim...