February 2006
Hi all
Blasted 406 has a new error-says fuel filter needs cleaning (FAP)with a sort of an indicator lamp on the top right hand side of the dash showing a schematic pipe with some dust particles in it. Shortly after the management system light has also lit (the one bottom centre that looks a tad like a brake cylinder) saying Anti Pollution system has failed, which I take as a consequence of this filter not doing it's job. Manual say take it out for a run. Done this-still on. Took battery off for an hour. Still on!
So dearest experts, what do I do? I have googled this, not getting too much that helps back. I mean I don't even know where this filter even is!
Is a 51 plate on 39k miles. Only realy does long runs, apart from over the last 3 days where it has done a few very short ones & was idling for about 20 mins too.
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www.bayingbasset.com
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I'm thinking of getting a dual fuel stove for camping, which will run off unleaded. Can you still syphon petrol out of a car or is there some sort of trap twixt filler and tank? Read more
>>Never heard of that rad relief stuff before, you learn summat every day.
Snake oil turns up in strange places.
I recently purchased a 'Halfords Stone Chip and Scratch Repair System" 3 pen kit.
In the instructions, it says "Use the special glass fibre preparation tool to remove any loose/flaking paint and all rust from the chip or scratch".
I've not tried it yet.
My question is about the most effective way of dealing with rust. How will this tool compare with using wet and dry papers or one of the chemical rust removers (like Kurust)? Read more
M,
I agree. Modern paintwork is pretty resistant to stone chips. I use a small screwdriver or even a bradawl to scrape the chip clear of rust, prime it and paint it. I never get any problems with subsequent rusting. Just take care to fill the chip carefully. w & d is going to damage the surrounding area. I will use w & d if it's a bigger chip and smooth off the paint edges. Of course galvanised steel may have something to do with the lack of rust!
JH
My SIL acquired 02 Matiz 0.8 about a year ago. Unfortunately she didn't ensure she got the owner's handbook. There is now a yellow 'Check' light showing permanently on the dash, the car seems to be running OK and she is unsure what to do. Is this a dealer issue or can a Matiz owner throw some light on what the problem can be? TIA. Read more
After having the EGR valve off the engine several times for cleaning with carb cleaner, with the same fault code coming back up after 2/3 days running each time, I obtained another valve from a breaker, but, on fitting, got the same fault reading,(P1403). I hadn't cleared the fault code from memory. Could this be the cause of the fault code coming up again?
Hi guys, following on from this thread www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=38...9 and having taken it to a local parts/garage place it emerges that the lock has 'gone' like you guys thought.
Now my girlfriend has bought a new one, had it made up so she can use her existing keys for the all doors/boot and ignition.
Now she wants me to fit it! anyone know how to do this?? easy or not? she has a Haynes manual somewhere, does it tell you in there?
Thanks again.
Lee182. Read more
>> Finally for the record can you tell me how much you
were charged all in please?
Sorry missed that bit in my excitement!
I think it was around the £25 mark inc vat all in, thought that was pretty good, was told it would be over £30 from Ford.
I'm looking for a car to replace my diesel guzzling Nissan Terrano II. I'm looking for a 2 litre diesel capable of towing 1.5 - 2 tons. I was initially thinking of the Freelander TD4 but the write up on this site has put me off a bit due to poor reliability record. Any recommendations ??
Steve Read more
I know this is an old thread. For what it is worth I have just traded in a 3.0L Isuzu Trooper rated to tow a maximum braked load of 3500Kgs and mpg in the low 20s
I use it to tow a boat (2250Kgs) a couple of times a year and wanted something more economical. I bought a Nissan Pathinder, so far MPG seems good but I don't have figures to hand. It is confortable and tows the boat. I had a few wobbles with it but that may be down to reducing the nose weight too much by putting the boat a few inches back on the trailer.
I know this may seem like a simple questions but. Where is the correct place to lift a car up from using a trolley jack. And where is the best spot to place axel stands without damaging the underneath of the car? Any suggestions would be very appreciated. Read more
For simple access not involving removal of a particular wheel, I put a trolley jack under the bottom of the shock absorber, lift the wheel to its maximum extent, then shove a pile of large blocks of wood under the wheel and lower the jack a bit until the blocks are just pinched.
That way is quick, avoiding having to unwind the whole suspension travel, and safe because the car is doubly supported with the blocks and the jack each still in situ.
Having an earth floor garage I don't really like axle stands - they exert too much pressure on the ground.
Car jacking points are often flimsy and designed for a different kind of force, the jack often hooking on rather than simply taking the weight from directly below.
After my previous ordeal of changing the headlight bulbs in my Scenic (see previous thread), my mate needs his bulbs replaced in his Picasso, 54 Reg.
Is this a straight forward job or am I faced with another finger scraping challenge? Read more
Yip, completed this in a lot less time that it took to do my Scenic.
As you say, it takes a fair bit of wiggling to get the plug off the end of the bulb. Then the wee clip, it took me ages to get it off. But once I realised that you pushed it towards the front of the car, and then moved it down to the 9 o'clock position from its 10 o'clock position, it was easy to do the rest.
Could someone let me know what type/spec of final drive diff oil and what type of gearbox oil I need to use for a BMW 316 Compact 1997 as I need to replace both tomorrow and don't know what spec to buy?
Many Thanks
Steveo Read more
I have a 1999 with 150K on the clock... the other day she simply would not drive... rev'd it hard for while and bang she jumped into gear.. it then drove great for about 30mins, but then it started to slip and the gearbox warning light came on. I turned the car off for 10mins and she worked again.. approaching a junction it slipped again.. I dropped her into manual mode and got a horrid dry noise..... the car got me home but smelt bad !!!!
and hour later started her again and she drive fine.. I drove her all the way to the dealer in manual mode and auto no issue's. Dealer showed NO errors codes nothing.. they simply said the gearbox was gone... errr thanks.. after a heated discussion they have agreed to replace the tranmission filter and oil (not all if it, just the 6/7litres that would sit in the sump) I hope, PRAY this sorts it and the old oil is really nasty and upsetting the Torque converter. Stories of Lifetime oil are bull cr@p..... ask BMW to define LIFETIME and they can not.... LIFETIME = Warrante Life to me.
Just taken two weeks' worth of grime from the car and noticed a number of small pieces or flecks of what I think are tar plastered on the bonnet and up the driver's door pillar and back of wing-mirror.
It's hard to see until you're close and when rubbed by a fingernail it appears to take the black layer away to leave an ugly yellow stain?? I've tried a little bit of meths in an inconspicuous part but to no avail. Any suggestions welcome, please!
Cheers
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"Added a liberal dose of Turtle Wax to the area, buffed and it now looks like new!"
Turtle Wax also do "Bug and Tar Remover" which works very well -also adds wax. Costs about £4ish and I've used my sprayer for several years - only needs a little bit each time, spray on, wait 1 minute and wipe off.
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Phil
Browse
Would it be OK to fill the offending expensive Eoyls exhaust emissions 6 ltr fluid tank (£35 a ltr for the fluid) under the vehicle with diesel? Then every 10 tankfuls or so put some Eoyls / Cerium based diesel additive directly into the tank (£7 from DMS Automotive Blackpool), mines not complaining! Also the water lancing the filter improves the mpg into the bargain & avoids me paying John Barnett Peugout Blackpool the princlety sum of £530 for "looking at" the problem! LOL "GOOD LUCK" avoiding your Peugout emission system bills! WOrks though, emissions on last MOT were zero .......