Support points are not always in the same places as jacking points. If the information is not in the manual, ask a friendly independent specialist or main dealer.
If you do use axle stands, wooden blocks are a good idea, as suggested above.
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I never jack a car up using the sill. This designated area is for an emergenct roadside tyre change using the supplied jack and a lot of care with no on else in the car. I know a lot of service garages use the sill and lift the whole car but hopefully the rubber pad is intact and the weight is evenly distributed on all four arms of the lift. A local VW garage used a lift without pads and with the feet on the diagonal and promptly folded both sill lips over. They even gave me the car back without a word but I examined the car and complained. They denied it and got the boss. We identified which ramp it had been on measured the footprint and sure enough they had egg on face. They repaired the car and cancelled the labour charge for doing the Job. A lot of larger cars have specified lifting points and often have a flanged whole in a raised mount to locate the lifting pad. Regards Peter
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Support points are not always in the same places as jacking points.
In my case, they are. But this makes life incredibly difficult. You can only get either the jack or an axel stand at each specified point but not both at the same time! VW provided quite a substantial and large welded plate at the front of the vehicle, so which careful positioning you can just get them in, but at the rear you have no chance.
If you do use axle stands, wooden blocks are a good idea, as suggested above.
I use old rubber car mats, cut into squares and layered onto the stand or jack 'head'
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Sorry forgaot to mention type of car Seat Toledo. Thanks for help
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I always use a piece of wood approx 300cms long by 5cm square under the axle stands to spread the lada and prevent damage to the underside. I often jack up under suspension arms taking great care because of the potential risk of the jack slipping.
I place wood under sill jacking points .
In the days of rusty sills, this was an essential (student A35s, old Minis etc) to prevent the jack just going straight into the car which would not move:-)
I also prevent all non jacked wheels from moving by using wedges on all non jacked wheels.
Care and a lack of haste (don't jack up quickly or let down quickly ) have ensured no accidents so far in some 30 odd years.
I gave up on Allegros as the body flexed apallingly - stories of windscreens popping out were not apocryphal.
madf
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look for small arrows on the lower body work, usually painted in to the trim so not to stand out, BMW's usually have one just behind the front wheel, and just in front of the rear wheels, these are visiable as rubber squares sticking lower than the sill. another place to consider would be the subframe of the car, directly or just beind the engine maybe.
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"I always use a piece of wood approx 300cms long by 5cm square under the axle stands to spread the lada and prevent damage to the underside. I often jack up under suspension arms taking great care because of the potential risk of the jack slipping."
300 centimetres long? That's one helluva lump of wood, and how do you spread a lada?
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I need to rub down / treat some rust the underside of my new toy (Jag XJ40) - so heavy ... whats the safest way of doing this DIY wise - do I use ramps or stands ?
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I need to rub down / treat some rust the underside of my new toy (Jag XJ40) - so heavy ... whats the safest way of doing this DIY wise - do I use ramps or stands ?
Ramps, if you can drive up them (couldn't in my Primera - too big front overhang). Even the Micra used to scrape the bumper coming down.
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I put wood blocks in front of the ramps to get my Capri onto them without scraping.
Safest: pit.
Next: hydraulic ramp.
Next: axle stands, correctly positioned at proper support points and perhaps buffered by sturdy wood blocks.
Next: ramps.
Only my inexpert opinion.
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Richard. A railway sleeper cut of at 25 degrees to give a decent ramp, two per sleeper. Andy P Do Not jack cars up by the wishbones/ front arms they were never designed to take that load in that direction and you can bend/break. Some claim to jack up under the lower ball joint, yeh right, with a normal jack the front wheels/axle of the trolly jack hit the car wheel fist and place the jacking cup in the worst possible place to jack a car and the best place to bend it. Regards Peter
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I agree with railway sleepers, my Dad used to have some made into ramps but he burned them when they moved. :o(
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I've found best (only) way for me is trolley jack it up then shove the ramps under the wheels, or if more height is needed, use axle stands.
And I hate to see trolley jacks meeting suspension components - totally wrong yet so common.
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In my experience front wheel drive cars are a nightmare to jack up. No central jacking point so, for a whole front or rear end lift, two jacks are required.
Not like my old Capri; lift the whole front under the engine cross-member, lift the whole rear under the rear axle.
Wonderful!
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jacking marina"s up was best on the sump.(not) but often done by tyre bays.
--
\"a little man in a big world/\"
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For simple access not involving removal of a particular wheel, I put a trolley jack under the bottom of the shock absorber, lift the wheel to its maximum extent, then shove a pile of large blocks of wood under the wheel and lower the jack a bit until the blocks are just pinched.
That way is quick, avoiding having to unwind the whole suspension travel, and safe because the car is doubly supported with the blocks and the jack each still in situ.
Having an earth floor garage I don't really like axle stands - they exert too much pressure on the ground.
Car jacking points are often flimsy and designed for a different kind of force, the jack often hooking on rather than simply taking the weight from directly below.
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