January 2006

GroovyMucker

I have been unable to persuade my Financial Director that she needs a new car ("1998 Corolla? But we bought it so it would last, and it's only done 70,000 miles") but she has had a couple of skids recently (Hah! I'm the one who spun it. Twice.) and I'm a little concerned.

She does about 8,000 miles a year on the damp and sometimes frosty roads of County Durham. Methinks, therefore, a set of winter tyres might be an investment that reassures me and will get past her (I know, I know, but she keeps muttering about some kid in Colombia, another in Africa, ...).

I have seen recommendations on this estimable forum. My question is,

Can I keep them on permanently?

I reckon they should give another 2-3 years of normal wear, by which time the car will *really* need replacing.

Thanks as always.
--
Stevie
Lakland 44-02 Sunburst Read more

steveo3002

ive got a set of winter tyres with the snowflake logo, they do seem okay in slush/mud.heavy rain...but on a damp raod they will slide easier than regular summer tyres, but then theyre narrower

id maybe suggest a new set of all season tyres from a quality brand name...and a lesson to drive a touch slower in poor conditions

carl_a

I noticed that Daihatsu have sneaked in a price rises recently, roughthly 7% across the range. Kia have done it in the last couple of months, so have Hyundai with refreshes. BMW, Honda did it and I think so did Ford a little while ago.

Car prices had been coming down for several years, does this mean that they will be going up from now on ? Read more

carl_a

Real prices paid (as against 'list') have to go up or
soon there won't be any more car manufacturers. At the moment
we are enjoying the lowest real world prices we have paid
for 20 years.
HJ


Very true, but remember that production costs are being reduced too, Honda starting to build Jazz in China, PSA/Toyota and others in Eastern Europe, Japanese/Koreans in India. Cars are also being built more efficiently and designs/R&D are increasingly being shared between manufactures to reduce costs.

Parts of the car industry are losing big money but another part is making a huge profit.
backatthepostbox

Hi folks,

Firstly, a happy new year to all.

I have recently got an 2000(X) 406 HDI(90) Estate. Done 89000 miles.

When the engine is sitting at idle it sounds a little rough and there is slight knocking/ticking noise. I can only hear it with the window open or when standing outside the car. There is also a bit of a screaming noise when the steering is on full lock. Does this sound like the dodgy crankshaft pully issue on 406s to you? And am I right in thinking the crankshaft pully is the one that is on the off side of the engine that all the aux pumps, PAS, etc run off?

It's going in for a cam(timing) belt change shortly, would it be worth getting a replacement crankshaft pully for the mechanic to fit while he is doing the other belt?

Thanks
Max
Read more

neil

Yes, absolutely - having recently had this done on my Xantia HDi (same engine).

The pulley is expensive - about £140 from a dealer, substantially less from GSF (*and same in every respect other than price!)

I would suggest a waterpump and new auxiliarry belt at this mileage as well, the waterpumps seem to be on borrowed time after 70k. Having said that, and someone will be along in a minute to contradict me, the idler's bearings seems to last indefinitely, dealers aren't advised to change during belt changes, although I'd be incluned to do the idlers every second belt change anyway!

Grahamy

Hi folks,
the rear offside footwell of my mondeo is soaking wet.
I think it must be the door seal.
Is this a common occurance in the mondeo?
Would I have to replace the seal? (If so, any idea of dealer price)
Any help/advice appreciated! Read more

Red Baron

I guess that you havn't done a forum search.

Never mind.

I have had exactly the same problem in my 2003 5dr TDCi.

The door membrane was stuck on all the way around with some black (butyl) sealant. Along the bottom edge I discovered a pinhole in the line of sealant. I sealed the entire bottom length and a little up the sides with lots of B&Q bathroom sealant (the one that smells of vinegar). It has been dry for 7 days and counting...

I found the leak by taking off the inner door cladding/cover (held on with 6 screws) and asking someone to hose the outside of the window. Almost instantly found where it was coming through.

BobbyG

I have an annoying noise which has developed in the last week on my 04 Scenic II. It seems to be coming from the dashboard area just behind the steering wheel. Its not a squeak, its not a rattle, more a "creak" noise if that makes sense. It is so loud that even SWMBO noticed it. But it is not the creak you sometimes associate with temperatures changing.

Anyone know if this is a known problem or what may be causing it? If it doesn't disappear then I will be forced to take it to the dealer and don't fancy what the result will be if they take the dashboard apart! Read more

Aprilia

I would just put up with it. Creaks from Renault trim are hardly unusual... If it is from 'within' the dashboard then the main dealer will need to remove the dash to deal with the creak. By doing that you will be opening a Pandora's Box of troubles....

scfc_151

I recently renewed all of my brake components on my 306td front discs and pads and rear shoes and drums, i also renewed and bled the brake fluid but my brakes still aren't brilliant. im wondering if there is anything else i can do to improve them?

Also what is the best way of increasing MPG on turbo diesels? Is anyone using biodiesel these days?

thanks everyone Read more

bell boy

cheap (budget not copies) brake pads/shoes seem to take longer to bed in rather than known makes(just a suggestion not aimed at you scfc_151 specifically)

Petel

Have just had conversation with indvidual who claims that a Fiat FIRE type engine ( first generation safe type ) can be damaged if the head has been skimmed and the cam belt breaks when the engine is running. Can anyone confirm this from "actual personal experience" please?
Thank you. Pete. Read more

Kingpin

I think the 1108cc engines are safe but the 1242 8 and 16 valves are not. Not sure about the original 999cc models from the late 80's though. Also if the head was skimmed perhaps it would make it unsafe in the event of a failure but only a few thou' may not make that much difference?

KeithP

The car (Astra MK3 1.4 MPI C14SE) has suddenly stopped working :( (just as I was about to sell it as well, typical) The engine turns over, but wont start. Fuel is getting through and there is a spark at the plugs. The starter motor is fine, there is also an occasional popping through the air filter. Could this be the crankshaft sensor or something else? Thanks :D Read more

KeithP

They people from the garage came round today (as they were on another call out else where), looked at the car, said the belt was fine but that the car was just very flooded. So cleaned the plugs, refitted them and then bump started the car and it was away. Works perfectly now. Nice to have a simple fix for once!! Thanks for all the advice and help :)

mss1tw

After spending a lovely weekend away with the missus in Wales, I'm not impressed to realise her 1.2 16v Clio seems to do almost as well on hills, and 'rolling' acceleration , as my 2.0 HDi. As you'd expect it's useless below 4,000rpm but once it hits there you can see the speedo rise.

And the book figure for those is 55MPG too.

I'm assuming mine would cope a lot better when loaded up, but still...

Not amused. Read more

AlanGowdy

A sporty petrol car would probably be a better (more fun anyway) drive than a diesel for press-on driving on winding roads with lots of accelerating and decelerating between tight bends.

However, I do very little of this kind of driving. I commute 80 miles per day on fast A-roads and Motorways. My diesel will cruise all day at 100 mph and 2800 rpm and still happily accelerate further despite being in an overdrive sixth gear (not that I would ever do this of course). Alternatively driving at the limit it gives me 55 miles for every expensive gallon burnt - I'd need to press on like an idiot to drop this to the low-forties. It climbs hills like a rabbit with a rocket up its bum. It accelerates to overtake slower traffic with contemptuous ease and usually without the need for a downward gearchange.

Happy? You bet.

nick62

When changing the radiator on my 2000 Passat TDI, I needed a new spring retaining clip for the "bottom hose" as the old one had rusted away, (see post "Passat coolant loss"). These are not available individually unless you buy a completely new hose (suprise, suprise), but VAG sell a part number "6Q0122291F" which is an adaptor/drain assembly which has this clip fitted and costs approx. £3 with VAT. Expensive for a 20p clip, but a lot less than a new bottom hose and it is a necessity!

I Just thought that this may help someone in the same situation if the local VAG parts department is less accomodating than mine.

P.S. If anyone wants the above adapter (sans clip) please ask and it can be yours for the cost of a stamp!

Nick Read more