November 2005
I have an intermittent..now semi-permanent failure of the tacho,speedo and a flashing oil light. I have cleaned the earth on the end of the engine block adjacent to the main harness junction, which I have unplugged to check connections. Also removed instrumnet pack and joggled multipin connector to back of pack...
Can anyone advise...I suspect either earthing fault or dry joint on printed circuit board where female multi pin connector is mounted.
David Adams
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Hi
Well last nights cold snap was enough to kill off the original battery which is 7 years old in my Vectra. Pretty good going in my book.
I have a 98 GLS with the factory fit alarm & immobilizer. It has a graphic which indicates that the alarm goes off when the battery is removed. I seem to remember you have to do something with the key in the ignition in order to prevent this happening. I could find no reference on what to do in either the owner?s manual or Haynes. For future reference does any body know the correct procedure?
I guess it was kind of a blessing as it forced me to splice on a +12V battery from a handy UPS using the fused phone car kit wiring loom while I swapped the old one out, so I did not have to and hunt for the radio codes etc.... but I still had my ear defenders on in case that didn't work :o)
Thanks in advance
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It's quite easy really.
Just slacken both battery clamps but don't lift them off their posts. Turn on ignition then off. Just pull off one of the battery clamps within the 15 secs and then take your time with the other clamp.
Tyreexpert
Further to previous post, my current tyres are 195/60 R15 88V. Could you let me know what you recommend and a likely price. I live in Wokingham and work in Farnborough, so anywhere reasonably close to either of these would be great.
On my current front tyres, the outer edge on one tyre has worn to almost no tread. Do you think the car needs tracking?
One more query - at the moment, the fronts only need changing. Should I put new tyres on the front or swap them all round and have the new tyres on the back? If this makes sense, I find the ride worse at the back, so it might be better to have new tyres at the back.
I know the recommendation always used to be to put new tyres on the front, but more recently my garage has said they should go on the back. All rather confusing!
Thanks Read more
I would without hesitation recommend Merityre Specialists. They have several depots in your area one of wich is in Frimley Green. Merityre and considered one of the leaders in independent tyre trade. They are leading members of the Pirelli Driver organisation. This means all their sites are technically audited by Pirelli on a bi annual basis, and they have just been awarded the new Michelin accreditation for customer service. I have spoken to their Ops Director Dene Arnold who assures me they will look after you in every way posibble. I am not aware of their pricing structure but Dene assures me that they will be closely in line with the price guide previously mentioned. I would suggest that you print these threads, whic may prevent any confusion. I understand that the branch number is 01252835145. they also have a branch in Farnham No 01252 733133. the managers name in that branch is Mick Wells.. Hope all goes well for you. Kind regards......
Hi,
I have just bought an Astra 1.6 club 5 door 2002 (52 plate) 10k miles
Is there anything that I should be looking for problem wise
(boring post I know but if there is anyone out there with ideas that would be great)
Thanks
Jon1
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On our 53 Astra 1.6, we have the following problems;
clutch judder first thing in the morning (if you let it tickover for a minute or two, it doesn't judder)
intermittent sticking EGR valve causing very rough running - oddly, it only does it when I drive. SWMBO laughs, and says I must be a rubbish driver!
Other than that, we have no problems with it.
I do agree with the cambelt change advice, and I will be doing ours when it hits 36K, but, the 8 valve engine isn't expensively ruined if the belt snaps - which is nice!
With regular oil changes, and good servicing, it should last very well. These cars are, when compared to most newish cars, very simple to work on. As such, I have done all the servicing , and as yet, no repairs, on our car since we bought it at 6 months old.
I certainly don't think much of it as a drivers car, but then that isn't its purpose. As a shopping trolley and commuting hack, it is perfectly suited to its task.
Depending upon which software version is in the ECU, there was an update which gave better driving "feel". Sorry, I can't remember the version numbers of the top of my head though.
Number_Cruncher
I'm just curious... what wheels do British MPs normally drive ? are they financed by the state ? or maybe they just use public transport ?
Ours - though financed completely by themselves - are somewhat impudent :/
juniorfoto.blog.pl/archiwum/index.php?nid=10327520
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I am the only Pole over here. Read more
I see...
and what about Ken Livingstone ? I've noticed a guy in "Fifth Gear" trying to persuade him to take a ride in a Lex 400h... then it turned out it wasn't Ken after all.
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I am the only Pole over here.
www.theregister.co.uk/2005/11/16/gatso_attack/
Now that's what I call angry.
V
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It appears that the Tuf Tuf Club site has been pulled.
The following articles are interesting on the subject.
www.time.com/time/europe/magazine/article/0,13005,...l
www.taxgloss.com/Tax-Genericized_Trademark_D_-_G-/...l
The second article is quite long but has some very interesting information on Gatso around the world. It did state:
"GATSO cameras can be defeated by placing a camera flash gun in the rear window of the car (or front windscreen), connected to a photosensitive cell. When the speed camera fires the internal flashgun to take the photograph, the flashgun in the car is also triggered by the photocell, over exposing the photograph. This is illegal in the UK."
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
Was involved in a minor collision on Saturday. When I registered the claim my insurer offered up a repair service and passed my number on to them. The repairers called on Monday to book the car in at which point I deferred until liability was confirmed.
Today I have a letter from the 3rd party's insurer which accepts liability on their behalf. They too are offering an Approved Repairer Service. This, however, has a rider at the foot of the page. "If you choose not accept this offer ... we may not be able to consider costs incurred in hiring an alternative car or a claim for the loss of use of your car".
Yes, I have a duty to minimise losses but isn't this a bit coercive? Would accepting my own insurer's offer automatically place me in breach of that duty?
This is all new to me. Which should I go with? I'm sure I won't get an impartial view from either my, or the other's, insurers. Read more
Sorry for the delay, I missed your thread....
It is somewhat of an intimidating line but you need to consider it.
The reality is that if you introduce a delay, then you wouldn't stand much chance of claiming anything for that period. So, if the period of time from the accident to the date it could be repaired was 10 days, but you went another route extending that period to 15 days, you would only be able claim for losses wihtin the 10 days - the losses within the additional 5 would be your own problem.
However, look at it the other way. They have admitted in writing that they will repair your car - what more do you want ?
You'll have no issue recovering your excess, no issues with the NCD on your policy, no troublesome admin, all you'll have to do is forward proof to your insurance company that your car was repaired by them. - seems an obvious choice to me.
If you did not have the letter and were considering pursuing the third party insurer I would advise against it, but that's not the position you're in.
M.
Took the Scooby in for service today. (Good dealer nr Wigan BTW and cheaper than telephone quote inc brake fluid change). Offered courtesy car which turned out to be Daihatsu Terios Sport. UHGGH.
OK it had less that 1000 miles but on the basis of 100 miles of mixed motorway, A road and urban driving I would make the following comments: -
No torque anywhere
No room for left foot, except under clutch pedal
Cheap interior fittings
Bouncy! Ride
Noisy - about 18mph per 1000 rpm in top so motorway driving and handsfree phoning a no no
No lumbar support on seats
No cubby holes for stuff
The only thing going for it was the high driving position, so easier to get into and out from than the ten year old Fiesta I am currently driving (See other thread). However, Fiesta is far superior in every other way.
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Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive? Read more
My daughter has a VW Golf with 97k on the clock, in pretty good condition and appears tight and solid. Not too fast, but well built and I think a good type of car for her to run around in. One problem that has emerged after 3 months of ownership is an occasional starting problem. Turn the key - nothing. Come back later - starts on the button. On one occasion it died soon after starting but then restarted shortly afterwards. It had a new battery a couple of months ago, I invariably replace it just to ensure no problems later. I assume it is some electrical gizmo with an intermittent fault - one of those sensor thingies? Once they replaced dynamos with alternators I tended to lose the plot. Any suggestions very gratefully received.
Many thanks MGs Read more
The start-then-stop scenario is classic immobiliser symptom, the engins runs briefly on the residual fuel in the system. Usually the immo will affect two sometimes three circuits ie fuel pump, ign and starter Get your electrician involved to totally remove the immo unit and restore the wiring.
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
Without wishing to give the pedants their own thread, or start a backroom war, another thread has prompted me to ask whether in general terms people think advanced driving is worthwhile: if so, why, and if not, why not?
In my own experience, I chose to do the IAM at my own expense really just out of interest and passed in January. I took about 13 lessons which is above average I believe.
There a monthly meetings but I must say that mostly these are not my cup of tea. However occassionally there is an intersting speaker or activity.
My training was carried out by a Senior Observer. He was good, but firm about what habits I needed to kick to get through the test. Hence the number of lessons. During my training I was given a pre-test (to ensure readiness for test)by an even more Senior Observer who I felt at the time was extraordinarily pedantic (as are some members during meetings) but with hindsight he was instrumental in me passing the test.
My Observer tacitly acknowledged that there are some things that are done pretty much only for "test purposes". The convoluted cockpit drill for one. We also discussed the merits of not driving to the letter of Roadcraft all of the time, and another Senior Observer (friend) has just picked up some speeding points, which somewhat bears this out.
However, Advanced Driver training was for me a fantastic experience, and I am without doubt a considerably safer and more aware driver than I was previously. That's not to say I don't speed or that I won't ever have an accident. But I'd like to think that I am much more aware of risk, better at reading situations and generally a smoother (and, in places, faster) driver than I used to be.
Personally I would recommend it to anyone.
However, people who haven't completed advanced driving seem to feel that rather than do it themselves, they can pick holes with the theory, or that the theory doesn't work in real life. It is the basis for professional emergency drivers, and as such I don't see that the techniques can be in dispute.
So, do you think advanced driving training is worth it or not?
IMO this discussion would be better if we stuck to the principles and just use details for illustrative reasons. Read more
Tried the IAM a good couple of years ago and the meetings were the holyier than thou sort of thing. Driving fast and safe was not on the menu. Then went to ROSPA to do my motorcycle course, which didn't happen for various reasons, but the meetings were far better and less of the don't exceed the limit even if overtaking attitude. The ROSPA exam is or was taken at 3 grades and had to be retaken every 3 years I think.
I got pulled for doing 103 MPH on the M62 a couple of years ago and appeared to get off when I said I was doing the ROSPA course, when the very nice policeman said that the IAM course was not upto the standards of the police courses, after I had said it would not do my advanced riding course any good being pulled like this. See the post I made then.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=11252&...e
Anyway I have done advanced motorcylcle courses (1 day) but have never passed the IAM or ROSPA courses but of the two I think the ROSPA one is better from what I have seen
Bill
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I have fixed the car!!! Thanks very much. The clue was lack of speed signal causing more than tacho failure...the connection to the rear of the alternator was dirty...waggled it and everything worked... will now clean it carefully.... your forum is fantastic.