October 2005
******** This thread now closed. Please see Volume 69 ********
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=35667
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
Usual rules apply,
No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 68. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=20892
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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there is a intermittent fault in the rear wiper could this be the relay and where would i find it in the car.Thanks Read more
Watch when you get it out of the box. They cover the plates in grease!
Given the state of the wires underneath it, it could have been a dodgy connected that connects to the plate. Give them a clean when you fit the new one and see what happens.
Failing that, move to the Canary Islands.
i rent a council garage to keep my car in, its concrete build with a corregated? roof
ive found on a damp and misrible day the car will have a film of damp on it inside the garage
just wondered if anyone had any ideas on making it as dry as possible considering i have no electric and cant make any big alterations
i was thinking of putting a brush strip under the door..but then again the brezze maybe better for the car Read more
Asbestos? Just the mention of the word makes me think of
crippling respiratory diseases and people bleeding from the inside out. Should
you not get a specialist in to replace that?
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Life is complex; it has real and imaginary parts.
A common misconception. Bonded asbestos roofing sheets (which contain around 15% white asbestos) are safe enough unless you grind them to powder and use them as snuff.
Hi.
Can anyone tell me what daN.m means on tightening torques?
Just replaced the rear hub and bearing on a scenic 1997 with abs and looked on my renault cd for the retightening torque on the hub nut. It is listing it in daN.m at 25 !. If this was standard Nm then surely it would be tighter than 25Nm?
Any help is always appreciated.
Thanks again
David. Read more
It saves one digit, generally a zero.
Some abbreviation!
I don't think it's intended to be. I think it's more of a significant figures thing. i.e.
250 Nm - tighten to 250 Nm
25 daNm - tighten to between 245 Nm and 254 Nm.
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Mike Farrow
My golf 1.6SE starts fine but within 5 minutes of driving the temperature needle goes up to 90 and the car stalls when the car is next stationary. Takes a few seconds to restart and after i set off i feel a staggered resistance to accelleration. But it only stalls once. Just had a service and a computer check gives a fault code regarding the speed sensor. Any ideas? my garage are asking for a fortune just to investigate the problem.
Thanks Read more
The most common problem on these golf iv variants for engine running faults can be caused by the engine coolant temp sensor.These usually give an incorrect reading to the engine ECU & thus performance is affected.You say the temp gauge reads 90o very quickly which could indicate this problem (it is the same sensor).The sensor is very easy to fit .It is a 4- pin colour coded unit a push fit into one of the top coolant hoses & secured by a plastic u clip.Also check coolant level in bottle.
or, to put it another way, under what circumstances is it a good idea to have one's car undersealed or waxoyled - and when is it a waste of money? Should we all be doing it? Read more
I read on a previous post on here, that its adviced to apply underseal/waxoyl etc onto the ford ka as they're not totally rust proof, i applied some in spring & im going to apply some more later today.
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Its not what you drive, its how you drive it! :-)
Having recently had a journey in a petrol-engined Civic, I was very impressed. Beautifully made, comfortable, spacious and pretty refined.
But I don't like the thirst of petrol engines or the revviness of Honda's engines, so I was wondering was the diesel any good.
HJ's review at www.honestjohn.co.uk/road_tests/?id=55 indicates that he wasn't very impressed, and other reviewers describe the engine as boomy and suggest that it is one of those ones which does nothing at low revs and then has a surge of power.
So I was wondering whether anyone else had driven the Civic diesel, and what they thought of it? Read more
I've looked at one of these, wasn't convinced. The Mazda3 suggestion is a very good one....
HJ in yesterday's Telegraph:
". . . It's best to drive with one wheel over the middle of the hump and the other on the flat. You get more of a shock and the springs suffer more, but you are less likely to cause tyre or steering alignment damage. People who install these humps should be made liable for consequential damage. I am thinking about starting CASH (Campaign Against Speed Humps)."
Hope you're serious, HJ. If you are, I'll sign up right away. Read more
Mapmaker, I think it improper to argue with DVD's advice on a question which you've asked him to give the answer to!
Motorway restrictions are just that, motorway restrictions. This includes all the no-learners and whatnot. Nothing to do with speed limits. You are still under the restrictions of the 30 limit. Same as when you have varying speed limits on the motorway. I believe the simple answer here is that the council forgot to put an NSL sign up before the motorway begins. Lack of repeater signs, which I believe would be required for a 30 limit outside of built-up lit area, compound this.
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Mike Farrow
I have a 1998 Renault Espace RTX-DT 2.2 diesel with a snapped gear change cable. Relatively easy job to remove just disconnect from ball/socket joint at bottom of gear lever under car and the same for the engine compartment just have to remove air filter to get to it. However no matter where I try I am told this part is only available from a Renault dealer. Whats more you cannot just purchase the gear linkage cable from Renault. They only supply what they call the gear linkage assembly which includes the gear knob (I was even asked whether I wanted a vinyl or leather one), the gear lever, the assembly it fits into, and the 2 gear change cables one for forward gears the other for reverse. The cost of this gear linkage assembly is £286 inc. VAT (I shudder to think what it would cost supplied with a leather gear knob, and who would want to pay the extra anyway unless you really wanted one). I have tried a number of online breakers yard but with no joy so far. Has anyone else encountered this before? If so how did you get round it or did you have to fork out £286 for a cable which probably has a value of only £5. Is this a common practice all car manufacturers employ when selling parts or is it peculiar to Renault? Why can't they just supply the part that is required rather than having to fork out a lots of money for parts which are not required - the answer is obvious I suppose.
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This Bowden cable does not have standard nipple end fittings. One end is a plastic 'pop fit' onto the gear selector on top of the gearbox, the other end is attached to a rod which in turn is attached to a ball joint on the gear knob. It breaks at the gear knob end due to poor design. As well as the back and forth movement at the gear knob end, there is vertical (up & down) movement because of the pivoting action. This up & down movement bends the joint between the cable and the rod and eventually causes failure.
Someone else mentioned soldering or brazing to repair the cable. I tried brazing on a brass extension to the cable but the solder did not 'take'. So wit gritted teeth, I am going to have to fork out £286 unless I can get a second hand one from a breakers. Hens teeth come to mind?
I have the Bosch fuel pump on my D Turbo, is it possible to do a straight swap to the Lucas pump? Read more
Yes all the settings wer upped together, boost comp, max fuel and boost. What injectors should i change to?
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>>It must be possible to configure AVG to auto-update, because mine does most times I log on!
Yes, it is. But it's at a fixed time and, to work, your system has to be switched on during that period. Hence it's preferable to update AVG manually and at least one computer forum I regularly visit has members who advise whether there are new AVG, SpywareBlaster, S and D etc updates available. The news then gets passed on to other users in turn.
Avast! simplifies the task as it's automatic, either when you switch on the system for the first time in the day or updates that are released subsequently later in the day.
It's also very quick to download compared to AVG. I've nothing against AVG, but I originally started to use it on friends and family's systems because it removed one element of potential danger if viruses etc were not nabbed in time and decided to use it myself as well.
PS
You set the AVG update time to suit your computer usage - the fixed time is not decided by Grisoft...:-)
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What's for you won't pass you by