October 2005
Hello
I confess to knowing nothing about cars so any help here would be great.
I've just picked up my new car - P Reg Vauxhall Vectra 1.8
I've driven it the one and a half hours home (live in middle of nowhere). The car smelt of petrol the whole way so much so that I felt ill and almost dizzy. It was worse with the windows open.
Also a slight rattling but that could be innocent.
On inspection the coolant was very low so it's been topped up. I also noticed some liquid spitting out of the exhaust and don't know how normal that is.
The garage claimed to have serviced it and replaced the cambelt. I haven't rung them yet as I'd like to have an idea of what the prob could be.
If anyone could help I'd be eternally grateful!
Kat x Read more
Does anyone know what causes, for want of a better description, a groaning clutch on a 2.0 VW engine say in a 1999 Bora. definately happens in a year 2000 Seat Toldedo 1.9 TDI and possibly other VW engines. It happens when slipping the clutch a bit and using quite a bit of revs ie starting and stopping on hills. My wife has her eye on a nice Bora but this is spoiling the car. The clutch WORKS fine under normal circumstances. Read more
Not sure its the bearing as another side effect is harsh resonance when accelereting hard in first from rest. It initially manifests itself when letting the clutch out though. Sorry if I've mislead anyone.
We had a Seat where this was happening, and I think the engine mounts were quite worn as the engine rocked quite badly when picking up the drive.
Is there any chance its engine mounts and the engine is throwing back and somehow resonating through the car on hard acceleration in first as well as happening when letting the clutch out?
I have only one or 4 options on my blower that is level 4 which blasts out the other 3 dont work.
What is wrong with it? do i need a new switch??
Thanks Read more
Hi, Seems to be a common point of failure on Nissan's, when I went to the dealer to get a blower resistor for my primera, they kept them under the counter for easy access!
Hello all, have a problem with Mrs 3T's stereo, the cd bit works fine, the radio function is dying.
Symptoms are that the signal doesn't seem to hold its strength- the volume goes up and down , bit of interferance can be heard when at its worst.
I have checked the aerial is in its socket on the roof and that the other end is connected well.Does anyone know whether its worth getting repaired?( S/h ones seem to go for under £100 on ebay ) Read more
Thanks, sorted now, star head screw was loose in the end, took interior light out and tightened it up , seems ok now, guess that would have made earth connection fade in and out when going over bumps etc
was wondering if any one can help was driving home this mornig from work and put my wipers on and when i did the radio keeps flashing on and of then it blew the fuse was wondering if any one else has had the same trouble Read more
sorry its is a pug 306 v reg diesel {Added. DD}
Yesterday I had a little jaunt from Southampton to Biggleswade, on the way back coming round the M25 at about 5pm (not the best place t be on a Friday night at that time I know!!) just after the M1 junction I had a Chav with 3 of his mates in their Rover 25 GsXtRsi heap, cut me up an absolute treat.
Bearing in mind we were only doing about 25mph he still managed to cut from lane 3 to lane 2 so close that I could not see his rear screen, this caused me to hit the brakes HARD, and I was sure I must have hit him, after a blast on the extremley loud set of air horns ;o) I had they got all upset and the passanger decided he was going to call me every four letter name he could think of (I counted 3 before he had to start looping them, lack of intelligence!!!), Now I dont normally get riled on the road as I see this type of behaviour a lot, but this plonka really got on my nerves, he did a maneouvre that could quite easily ended up with the four of them very seriously hurt, and yet they get the hump because I made it known I was there.
People like this really have no idea just what damage 44t of artic will do to a car even at 25mph. There is never a Policeman around when you need one is there!!!!! Read more
It is easily done as there is a huge blindspot just where you have described, dosent alter the fact that he should have ackowledged his mistake, just embaressment I suppose.
Early today I went to my usual MOT garage (I've just realised that I have been going there
on and off for nearly 40 years!) for a drive-in MOT.
"Sorry gov, you'll need to make an appointment, now we are computerised"
It seems that the testers have to allow an hour for each test and therefore they are not happy, because they are not able to carry out so many tests on a Saturday morning.
Does this mean the end of on-the-spot MOTs and discount prices?
And what about re-tests? Will we have to pay the full fee?
Read more
and using a wireless laptop can log onto the MOT garage
Certainly not the one I've seen.
I suspect when the project was started all those years ago, wireless comms hadn't even been invented!.
The local garage I use had a spare phone line for the comms, but VOSA wouldn't pay them to take it over insisiting on a new line. This ended up costing many 1000's of pounds replacing half a dozen telegraph poles that had been there for years, but below the new standard height.
VOSA also couldn't believe that BT wouldn't install the line - this being in Kingston Comms area where BT doesn't have a presence.
hi,
was reading a thread from "manatee" about k series 1.4 multipoint overfuelling problems. If you read this post...did you manage to solve the problem? I have a customers car with exactly same symptoms, have had ecu checked, changed/checked all sensors, replaced cat which had blocked due to excessive carbon build up.
Any ideas?
thx Read more
thanks for the replies guys....
The O2 sensor was changed along with the blocked catalist, and the coolant temp sensor was my first thought and has been changed too.
The CO reading is in the range of 8-10%, extremely high suggesting an incorrect injector pulse duration from the ecu, this has been back to be checked...and has passed although i am still suspicious.
Fuel pressure checked out ok, and all vacuum hoses/pipes seem intact.
I will check the vapour control solenoid as you suggested,
will report back
thx
john
Hello all,
I'm in need of a car which would be suitable for long distance motoring as I'm planning to start following my footy team around the country... but (as any woman would) I have a list of requirements:
Max £4k in price
Reliability is key
Low insurance group (I'm still classed as a 'young driver')
Economical (45mpg+ for m/way driving..!)
Preferably no older than 5yrs.
Now given the last point, I'm thinking diesel, unless I plan to drive a petrol extremely frugally (and that's about as likely as me buying a Smart car tomorrow).
I've trawled Autotrader looking for ideas, but I can't seem to find anything that I like.
I've owned Japanese for the last 5 years, so I was leaning that way, but Japanese diesels aren't freely available for around my budget (correct me if I'm wrong).
First thoughts were Focus diesels, maybe 306's, but these are massive come-downs from Japanese cars - I'm used to air/con, CD players, all the little 'standard' things on Japanese cars that the likes of Ford, etc charge extra for (or badge as Ghias).
Basically, I'm looking for the highest spec car possible for the lowest price (aren't we all?)
If it was you - bearing in mind the insurance cost and costs of any potential repairs - what would you opt for??
TIA
Read more
You have had Japanese and like them so why not stick with them. I have a 323 which I have had for 6 years now with no faults. One of those would probably do you fine. Another possibility would be a Hyundai Elantra. Reasonably priced and they have a good reputation. You know the Nissans and seem to like them so they would be another option. The advantage of getting another of the same would be that you know all the potential problems and could spot a bad one easier.
You need at least a 1.5 if you are going to be doing regular long country runs - don't settle for anything smaller. It might well be worth going for a 2lt if you can manage the insurance cost. There is nothing like a bigger engine for relaxed high speed cruising. I have a 4lt Ford Falcon and it is very relaxed at speed. Not so good at the petrol pump but a very nice cruiser. Not that I would suggest that for you. Your insurance company would have a heart attack! Also you might want to try an automatic. Once you have driven one for a while you won't want to go back to manuals.
Have just got some nice new shiny alloys for my primera.And while standing back and admiring them,couldnt help notice the dull and sorry apearance of the calipers.
Question is whats the best paint to use for them,taken into account how hot they get,would hammerite smoothrite be up to the job? or am i looking at something a bit more heat resistant. Read more
Hi there, try demon tweeks, they do caliper paint that is heat resistant.
Pastyman...


That is why there is always space for expansion at the top of the tank and you will never fill that bit,no many how many times you brim it.