October 2005
Anyone had any problems? I was reading HJ in the Telegraph on Saturday and apparantly D5 diesels may need expensive injector replacement (£1500) when over 3 years old. Mine's just over 3 years and has done 42K miles.
Cheers in advance. Read more
I have just serviced my vw sharen and according to the book I should be able to reset the service indicator by pushing the trip button in and turning the clock button to the right. But nothing seems to happen. Should I be doing something else as well. Hoping someone can advise, THANKS.
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... and thanks from me too. I reset service indicator on my '54 Passat with this method
Have decided to top up the antifreeze on my Mondeo (2001 new shape) - the stuff in there was a dirty orange colour - I have topped up with some Blucol which is obviously not the same colour. Is this ok or should I have flushed the old out first? My understanding (possibly naive!) is that anti-freeze is pretty much the same whatever colour it is.
Any advice? Many thanks Y. Read more
www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/faq.htm?id=41
Ah, I see Manatee has pointed that out.
Listening to the radio the other day, I hear that we are in for a particularly cold winter.
Bearing in mind that I use ready-mixed screenwash and I have substantial quantities of it (suitable for temperatures down to -7), I was wondering about adding a quantity of Methylated Spirits or alcohol to the screenwash reservoir the night before a 'cold snap' as they say, in order to give the fluid some extra anti-icing properties.
I don?t want to get into whatever screenwash is best, etc., and also bearing in mind that the winter can sometimes be quite mild (yet driving conditions require plenty of screenwash to clear dirty spray from the screen), then turn very cold for a few days or a week I am interested in a short term and cheap, yet potent method.
All suggestions welcome.
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That´s cheap gin, Orbs.
Accounts for the erratic HGV driving one sees so often ;-)
Having read several threads on this web-site I have decided to half the oil and filter service interval of my Renault Scenic 1.9DCi.
If anybody carried out an oil change on this make and model I would appreciate any feed-back on any tricky areas of the procedure.
Is there a crush washer on the sump drain plug, and what size is it?
What is the oil quantity of this engine?
Thank you in advance for any information in this matter.
Regards,
Will.
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Also, make sure you don't overfill it...
I've heard on some diesels (can't remember what makes now) they can start running on their own oil until it all goes bang. I'm not sure about this, it may be an exaggeration. And if it did happen, surely one could just stall the engine?
Hi Everyone
I have the rear binding brake issue on a Corsa that all Vauxhalls seem to suffer from. I have a high pitched squeeling from the left rear and a deep rumble when applying brake pressure.
This was supposedly sorted out by my local garage six months ago, but the car is now parked 20 miles away and I do not want to drive it that far in its current condition.
I want to open up the rear drums and try to clean out the dust and rust and give everything a good rub down with emery cloth but have fallen at the first hurdle.. I can't get the drum off to access the shoes!!
Can anyone please help, because this whole business is driving me up the wall
Thanks for any help,,
BF
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>> not sure if these are taper or plain,no doubt someone
will know.
If you have to undo the hub nut to remove the
drum, then more than likely it'll be taper roller bearings. On
reassembly you have to tighten the nut to a certain torque
setting (can't remember the value but this seats the bearing) then
undo the nut again and finally tighten finger tight only.
I've come across some that are plain,just torque them up instead of adjusting to remove play.
'I know we all have to start somewhere, but brakes and bearings aren't for beginners.'
Have to agree.
Hello - me again,
I'm going to check the pads tomorrow but I'm fearing I will need new pads. Therefore, I've decided to do the job myself. I need a few pointers. I was going to change them last time but seem to recall needing some caliper tool or something.
So firstly - what do I need? Secondly, can somebody run through what to do please? I don't mind getting my hands dirty and I could have a good stab at it but with it being brakes, I want to get it right!
Lastly, what pads should I get and where from? I don't want cheapo ones and if the more expensive ones mean better stopping power then so be it. Would going to Ford be the best option or are there better places to buy better pads?#
Many thanks for any help offered,
Adam
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Formula1 can be found at www.f1autocentres.com
Just back from a long weekend in the South West, a good outing for the new Grand Scenic which averaged 36.5 mpg over the 700 odd miles, including a lot of steep and narrow Devon lanes.
Had an incident with the electric parking brake. The electric parking brake disengages as soon as you apply revs and lift the clutch as opposed to a standard hand brake where you release at the time of your choosing ie once you have achieved the "balance" on the clutch.
We parked on a steep slope and upon returning found a car parked just a few feet in front of us meaning that we had to reverse. Problem was that as soon as revs were applied and the clutch disengaged, the car slipped forward towards the car in front. After 2 attempts I had to concede defeat and we went for a walk until the owner returned - which, fortunately, they did within half an hour.
Of course, without the car in front (no pressure) and without the additional weight of the family on board, I was able to get the point of balance immediately without slipping down the hill ...........
Will certainly be very careful how and where we park in the future. Read more
I have a new Scenic as well and have also had a little trouble adjusting to the new electric parking brake ...... but have found the release button good, as you can use it just like a traditional hand brake and only release at "bitting point"
I am now struggling every time i get in our punto and try to set off with the handbrake still on!
I have a problem with loss of acceleration. I can put my foot to the floor but it will not accelerate. However if I take it out of gear then back into gear and try again there is a puff of black smoke from the exhaust then it seems to be OK. Any Ideas? Thanks Read more
Very very common problem with all VaG diesels with 70K+ miles.
MAF sensor problem. This item measures the amount of air being sucked into the engine and adjusts fuelling accordingly.
Very easy to change as all you really need is a screwdriver.
The MAF sensor is mounted on a plastic tube on the OUTLET of the air filter box (the thingy with the connector on it).
Check on Ebay there are several people selling them, or alternatively Euro Car parts, that is unless you want a huge bill from the main-dealer !
looking to buy a kangoo and have seen advertised a 02 plate 1.6 trekka.i have heard conflicting reports about the 4 wheel drive on this car,some say it is permanent 4 wheel drive while others have said that it only goes to 4 wheel when traction is poor.anybody tell me the correct answer to the 4 wheel drive.also does anybody have this car as i am curious to the mpg this car gives.all advice welcome.cheers. Read more
I have a 1.6 2002 Trekka and the fuel consumption is quite high, for example it cost me £65 to go from Lancashire to South Wales and back. I have had it for two years and to be honest have had only minor problems such as a dodgy coil, new rear discs and a problem with the fresh air meter and there dows seem to be a problem with the rear wheel which has not been resolved yet.
Compared to my previous car which was a Mk4 Golf this car has been more than OK. I had no end of problems with that such as new gearbox at 40,000 miles, new rear axle, new starter motor, dodgy coils (this is a common fault on all cars - Bosch I think makes most of these) etc etc... VW customer service was exceptionally poor at several dealers.
But back to the Kangoo, its rattly inside, the trim if cheap, tyre wear is uneven, and depreciation is fairly rapid BUT and it is a big BUT, I have been all over the place (trips to France) in this car, it swallows kit, two dogs, kids, tents. I have moved house with it, its been full of plants and furniture - in short I think these cars are excellent and I have owned a few. Yes its not particularly cool or fast, but for load lugging or camping they are tres bon!!
Hope this helps.
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Difficult to tell, Martin, without seeing the car and tyre but suspension bush wear is a distinct possibility, especially given the known susceptibility of the Volvo P2 (the S60/S80/V70 platform) range of cars to it. In the case of my father's 1998 S80 that he has owned from new, the offenders have always been anti roll bar drop link bushes and lower suspension arm bushes. The former just rattle and clonk without causing adverse tyre wear whereas the latter can rattle and clonk as well as cause adverse tyre wear. In fact, it was adverse tyre wear that alerted him to the problem before clonking noises became apparent. No rear suspension bushes have failed on his car although it is true to say that Dad was convinced one had; infact it was a front drop bar link bush, again, even though it sounded like something at the back!
If you turn up in an S60/S80/V70 and mention "suspension bushes" then any Volvo dealer or decent independent Volvo outfit is going to know where to start looking straight away; the problem is that well known. My guess is that MOT style levering with bars with the car in the air would be a starting point. Thankfully, the components that fail are not especially expensive (even though it would of course be nice if the design faults didn't exist).
When it comes to frequency of replacement, I think it's true to say that Dad has replaced one or two bushes every couple of years (either drop link or lower control arm). I have no other hard experience to go on; only the mentioned comments from other enthusiasts and a discussion with my trusted Volvo indy that it is a common problem on the early S60/S80/V70 models. As mentioned above, so far my brother's 2003 V70 D5 and my 2003 2.4T have escaped.