January 2005
I've got a 1995, M reg Audi 80 2.0E, and over the past few months I've noticed that the headlights (dipped beam) don't seem to be very bright, in fact I find it difficult to drive on motorways and on country lane at night. Yes I have checked that both bulbs are working and the lens are clean and I know my eyesight is okay as I don't have the same problem with our other 2 year old car. Is it something to do with the age of the car and that the reflective lens in the headlight are not as effective now (no sign of rust or water penetration). I was considering changing the bulbs to something brighter or different. Can someone throw light on this problem (sorry) or advise what I could do or what are the best type of bulbs to get for motorway/country lane driving etc. Thanks
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A neighbour of mine has just had a new set of tyres fitted to a Honda CR-V. He was told by the tyre fitters that he needed to change the complete set because running this type of 4x4 with some new and some part-worn tyres would damage the transmission.
Has anyone else heard of this? Is it true and if so what is the reason?
I am sure someone out there can enlighten me...
Thanks in advance Read more
I am not sure if i will be shot down for this, but all the other cars mentione had full time 4x4 which the CR-V doesn't. The rears only come into action when they there is loss of traction on the front. For this reason, I would have thought it would be fine to replace as long as you were replaceing axle pairs, i.e. 2 front or 2 rear.
Anyone had trouble getting a Mazda 323F insured?
There is apparently an omission on the insurace companies data base which precludes a 2001 '323F' - a '323' is quoted .
What should I do apart from go along with their nomenclature?
Car and registration document book clearly state 323F.
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I wasna fu but just had plenty. Read more
I'm with Direct Line and I see on my Schedule that the car is listed as a 323 (no 'F') - but I think I gave them the registration number when I bought the insurance and that was what the database came up with. My Mazda brochure just says 323 (no 'F') on the front and I don't think there was a booted variant in the UK for that model (didn't the 'F' used to refer to the 'fastback' in earlier models?
My 96 306 DT just died big time...turns out the head gasket had done and no water was getting to the engine, despite water being in the radiator. Long story short... engine block is cracked..ooops..and as far as my (very) limited knowledge goes -the engine needs replacing with a 2nd hand one. I have contacted breakers and they are quoting me about £450 delivered. I guess I need to find a diesel specialist to put one in for me, but I don't really know where to start. Any advice on any of this including a recommendation of a garage to use in N. London or nearby, I would be very grateful. Read more
Being in the same situation myself I would like to counter the 'scrap it and buy another' argument by saying that it has to be worth considering what value can be placed on knowing the recent history of the car you already own and what isn't wrong with it. I think there is a value in 'the devil you know' compared to taking on another car with other possible problems you may not find out about until too late.
Has anyone got any hints & tips for changing this without making a g**awful mess. I've got to do mine again and I think it's about the worst I've come across since the old standing filters on ARG (Austin rover Group) B series. Read more
Use a decent tool - the access to my Primera P12 oil filter can only be gained from under the car with the engine splash guard being removed, then you need to use an oil filter remover, whilst flat on your back under the rear of the engine !!
I'm going to tackle changing a CV boot myself - the outer nearside one has split.
Does anyone know of any special tools I'll need? Rumour has it that there's an enourmous hexagonal wrench required for the hub nut/bolt.
Also, does anyone know if the outer boot can be renewed without removing the inboard end of the driveshaft from the transmission?
Just thought I'd see what people know before I spend time and effort pulling the wretched thing apart. Haynes aren't very helpful when it comes to mentioning perculiar tools. Read more
It was freezing cold the other night and the following morning the windscreen was misted up so badly that it took about 15 minutes for the demister to clear it. I thought that air-con had done away with this kind of thing. Any suggestions as to what might be the matter? I've had the car for two previous winters and I've never had this problem before. Also the air-con does appear to be working fine.
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I wouldn't worry unless it's a continuous problem. We've had a fair amount of wet weather followed by cold nights - if condensation is more than a fine mist then the air con can't clear it, - i.e. heavy water deposits on screen, it will take a while to evaporate the water !
If it becomes a constant problem, then this might point to a fact that you may have a leak into the cabin !
I read somewhere that Citroen are launching a C3 with Eco feature, this being that as soon as the car stops and providing you keep your foot on the brake, the engine cuts out.
The engine restarts in 0.4 secs as soon as you release the foot brake.
What does the law say on sitting in traffic with just your brakes applied, and what would you feel about being stuck behind a car that has their brake lights on for ages whilst waiting in traffic?
Good idea, not sure that practical. Read more
A friend had a Haflinger tiny 4x4 with a Stey Puch engine and dynastart. Had a very characteristic whine when it started.
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land
I have a 2000X Vauxhall Zafira. Recently it's been taking ages (e.g. up to 15 secs) to start. It's worse when it's colder, but takes a long time even at 10 degrees C. It always starts eventually, but it shouldn't be taking so long, right?
It had a full service last summer at deleted, but I was not impressed at all - the car woudln't start at all the day after the service.
Any ideas why starting takes so long?
Thanks,
mustard.
{Garage name removed. DD} Read more
It's done under 40k miles, but it is 4 years old (2000X). Could these pipes really have already gone? What do I look for in these tubes? Or should I just take them to a Vauxhall dealer and cough up to be sure? How much can I expect to pay?
I'm planning a trip across Europe in March, so I want everything to be in order. The car had a service last summer, but is there anything else you'd recommend double-checking?
Thanks
I have a P reg Omega 2.5 with climate control. Just recently the blower motor has stopped working. The air con seems to be working as when driving some cold or warm air comes through the vents. I have checked the fuse and relay. I have removed the glove box to get at the motor but it looks as though it will be difficult to get to the motor itself. Can someone suggest a way of checking the motor and circuits while still in the car?
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This could be a problem with the motor or possibly the electronic fan speed control module which is situated in the air ducting,above & to the right of the motor.Access is much easier if you remove the glovebox.
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Ian
Thanks for your comments. Certainly replace the existing bulbs for the Osram Silver Stars and get some quotes for some new reflector and lens. Option 3 sound a bit ambitious for me. Some useful web site as well. Thanks again
Dev