April 2004
Hi all,
I have been trying in desperation for a while to find out the source of the problem on my car, but so far, to no avail, so I was hoping you could help. Its a bit of a long story, but bear with me. The car in question is a 1993 Volkswagen Polo Genesis 1043cc (AAU) with Bosch single point injection.
I can get in the car in the morning, no matter what the weather or temperature and it will start first time every time, and run smoothly and cleanly. It'll go anywhere, at any speed for as long as I like and its gives no problems at all. If I stall the car at any point, it will restart without complaint. However, for the past few months if I stopped when the engine is warm for any longer than 5 minutes, the car wont start at all. Operating the starter for 10 second bursts prove fruitless as the engine turns at the correct speed but will not fire. One 10 second burst every 5 minutes still fails to get it started and not so long ago, I was stuck on the petrol station forecourt for 20 minutes (getting some rather strange looks) before it finally restarted. On odd occasions, it would start but cut out within seconds. In my first attempt to cure the problem, I cleaned the rather 'wet' looking hall sender on top of the distributor, but this didn't work, as the next time it happened it was dry, clean and secure.
So next, I checked the voltages across the coil in one of those "Im not going to start" phases and they were a little on the low side, so I changed for a better second hand one. Hooray, this cured it....... for 2 weeks. So yet again, the problem is back.
The distributor cap and rotor arm have also been replaced recently, so I have ruled this out.
In addition, as the engine warms through, the idle speed naturally drops from its 1000rpm when cold to about 800rpm when hot. However when it is hot, the idle speed isn't that steady, fluctuating from 500 to 1000rpm every seven seconds or so, before returning to a steady (if slightly wobbly 800) idle. It will remain at this 800 for about 10 seconds before it fluctuates again.
The car is due in at a local VW specialist for new exhaust in the next few days, so I was going to ask them. However, I just wanted some ideas before I went, hopefully helping me fix the problem, instead of having to pay them to repair it.
ANY ideas much appreciated.
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When I was a kid, I remember my grandfather doing this.
I guess this procedure is fairly crude compared to laser wheel alignment.
Does anyone have any simple steps for doing this?
Does anybody still do this?
Or is this another lost technique?
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Have a look on this site, www.miata.net/garage/alignment/index.html, I know it refers to Mazda Mx5's, but the principals is the same.
...
I need to pick your collective brains.
I have had a rattle / ticking noise from my engine for a while now (Mark 3 Golf VR6,1997, 85k). Its been diagnosed as a worn big end bearing. The mechanic told me that it would be cheaper to buy another engine rather than repair mine - could this be true?
I need to drive it every day for work and as i haven't got £1000 spare at the moment to get the work done - is this advisable? Do big-end bearings just let go all of a sudden, or is it gradual, as i need to drive it every day for work.
Is this really terminal? Read more
Yes i did find out. It was the big end bearing. Drove it with the knokcing to the supermarkert when it REALLY started banging. End result: broken bearing, damaged crank & other internals. Diagnosis terminal. Bought a very low mileage block from a corrado vr6 and basically replaced the engine. Cost a bomb, but less than i would have lost selling it in that state.
Its not a common problem, unlike the rattle from the timing chains, which is well documented on VR6 forums. Do a forum search on vr6oc.com, helpful people with lots of knowlege.
My fiance's Polo has one integral rear fog light in the offside cluster. The MOT tester passed it but told her there should be two. I think he's wrong, as my Sprinter has the same arrangement along with numerous other makes as far as I can see. What does the test require regarding this please? Read more
Most German cars are lacking one LH foglamp - usually cured by adding a bulb and sometimes cutting a hole in the rear of the NS cluster
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
1996 model needs extra key BUT.... red key is lost. Realistically, what is it likely to cost - from a lock expert rather than a FIAT dealer? Read more
Good point Kith - though previous owner is not in local area and - as you say - car is not worth very much, certainly as a resale. I just want to make sure others are not ripped off by being told they need to spend hundreds for a task that's really worth a few tenners. Cheers.
Well I took a test-drive of the Audi Allroad (180PS 2.5TDi) on Saturday. To the horror of my wallet, my initial impressions of this leviathan were promising. I?ve always liked this car in Irish Green (a metallic sage), shying away from the darker colours. The car I took out was black, featuring the ?Aluminium Optic? pack (Audi?s way of saying it has got lots of brightwork on it) and really looked the part, with one exception; the roof. On the lighter cars, the plastic roof cover (there to prevent scratching when taking this beast off-road) is fairly inconspicuous. On a darker car it sticks out like a sore thumb.
On to the inside; the brochure really fails to sell the two-tone interior but in reality the beige leather with beige and mid-brown dash/doors works extremely well. A quick look around the rear revealed a truly capacious load space, with easily accessible tie-downs and a couple of cubby holes for storage of smaller, more fragile items. Or at least there would have been if they weren?t already in use to store the CD changer and the Bose amplifier. A full-size alloy spare is provided, but the tyre is a vredstein collapsible, complete with compressor. This means you get the looks (and expense) of a 5th alloy, with a range of 200km/125miles, but are still restricted to 80kmh/50mph. An unusual but sensible compromise, given the off-road limitations that a skinny space saver would offer.
As you would expect from a car of this size, the rear accommodation is more than ample and would seat 3 adults in reasonable comfort (although I?m sure people would draw straws to avoid the usual middle seat compromise).
Although I had the car for 40 minutes or so I didn?t get to play with the bells and whistles, instead concentrating on how the car drove. Suffice to say this demonstrator came fully loaded, with cruise control, Bose soundsystem, GPS and silky-smooth tiptronic transmission.
After the, ahem, purposeful clatter of my Alfa JTD the whisper of the Audi TDi came as a revelation. I know this will sound a cliché, but I genuinely checked with the salesman that the car hadn?t been mis-badged. Barely a purr reached the cabin on starting, with engine noise remaining a muted background hum, even when pressing on with the transmission in Sport mode. Another reason for checking the engine was the alarming numbers appearing in the middle of the dash. I set the trip computer to show the average consumption for my 40 minute session and was horrified to see a figure of 25.2mpg. After talking to the salesman allocated this car for daily use it would appear this is par for the course. Given that fully half of the journey was spent sedately pootling around at 55-60mph at 1900rpm or so, this was a major disappointment.
Having settled in and made my way out of Poole along the dual carriageway I was surprised to hear some fairly significant wind noise from around the B pillar once up to 70mph. Not at all what I expected, although perhaps I?m being overly critical of a car that comes with roof rails (the most likely cause) as standard.
Both around town and out on the dual carriageway the ride comfort was exceptional. On a couple of occasions I deliberately headed for recessed drain covers and potholes, only to be rewarded with a muted clunk from the drain cover and no indication from the Allroad that anything had happened. The air suspension on this car really irons out the bumps with consummate ease.
And there?s the rub. Once off the beaten track and into the twisty back roads, the Allroad showed its Achilles heel. Despite keeping speeds down to 45-50 (where I might usually be pushing on at 70 or so, visibility allowing) I rarely felt secure with the handling. There was an overly detached feel, almost as if the front wheels weren?t in contact with the ground. I can only describe it as ?floating?, although not in the hovercraft/not going to make that corner sense, simply a detachment that prevents you feeling the road when you most want the feedback. This was with the suspension at its lowest setting, with the dampers tightening up accordingly. I dread to think how it would feel if left at the standard ride height.
So will I be ordering an Allroad? In the final analysis, no. Despite a fantastic interior and day-to-day practicality I was frankly horrified by the fuel economy (or lack of) and couldn?t live with the indirect feel of the drive when pressing on. This could be countered by considering the A6 Avant Quattro; however the order book has been closed on the A6 Avant pending a new model in the autumn.
So my bank manager breathes a sigh of relief and I return to my Alfa. Yes, it?s noisy and has all the load carrying capacity of a teacup, but it handles like a dream, returns 36-40mpg and still makes me grin whenever I look at it. I?m glad I drove the Allroad, but was gladder still to get back into the familiar surroundings of my Sportwagon before turning the key and heading back to the same roads that so unsettled the Audi. Only this time, I was in control.
ND
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And now back to motoring.
DD.
I have a 1999 Fiesta Zetec. On the way home on friday it sudeenly started making a noise like a creaking/knocking noise from the front right of the suspension, when I got home i pressed on this corner and it carried on doing it. Later in the evening once it had got cooler I did the same thing again and it had stopped. My brother said it could be the rubber seals on the wishbone and anti roll bar that were a little dry and because it was a hot day it was making them creak and to spray them with WD40? Is this right? Read more
I'd use vegetable oil, as WD40 could affect the rubber.
Just had the clutch replaced on my 1998 Subaru Impreza turbo, a skimmed flywheel was fitted also. The work was done by a reputable Subaru specialist using a Subaru clutch kit and it drives well except....
When stationary in neutral if I depress the clutch pedal about 1 or 2 cm then I can feel a vibration through the clutch pedal, if at the same time I increase the engine revs the frequency of vibration increases. Depressing the clutch pedal further and the vibration goes away.
Similarly, whilst driving along, if I depress the clutch pedal 1 or 2 cm (as if 'riding' the clutch, which I know is inadvisable) there is a distinct vibration present. This was not there with the old clutch and whereas it is not a huge problem, I was wondering if it can be indicative of a duff flywheel or release bearing... Any ideas??
Thanks Read more
Aprilia - to clarify:- the specialist charged £480 to fit a new Subaru clutch and a skimmed (badly!) flywheel, the dealer charged £850 to fit a new Subaru clutch and a new Subaru flywheel. The flywheel costs around £220 and with higher dealer labour rates that accounts for the difference. The dealer who did the work are about 50 miles from me, my local dealer quoted £1050 for exactly the same work!
I think Impreza turbos can live a hard life and so clutch changes are common and expensive with the flywheel change. My Impreza's clutch change was at 120,000 miles (ie 120,000 miles on original clutch) which is exceptional.
Great cars, just expensive to run...
2 questions if anyone can help:
1. i want to do gaming with a friend where we link the systems together. believe i need LAN cable and network card. Do i need anything else? Is it expensive? Hard to set up? Basically what do i need to do to do PC to PC Gaming.
2. Might buy a new pc soon. thinking of the Athlon 64 chip. Is it worth it?
Many Thanks
{Subject header changed to reflect the question being asked. DD} Read more
Further to the discussion of StarOffice/OpenOffice.org in an earlier thread, there's an article on the subject at makeashorterlink.com/?O20362A28
I have a 2000 Mercedes Sprinter 311 cdi van. 270000 miles. Runs extremely well but is losing water about one litre per 100 miles. I have checked for external leaks, for telltale marks around hose joints, radiator, heater matrix and water pump, nothing, I have had the system pressurised to 21 lb, about three times normal and run the engine for about ten minutes at about 2700 rpm with no fluctuation in pressure evident and no external obvoius leaks being forced. If the head gasket was faulty or head warped and the seal between water jacket and cylinder broken one would expect a pressurised water jacket but it is not so. Radiator cap was checked, o.k. Engine runs as normal, starts cleanly on four temp as normal slightly below 80C. There is no evident emulsion or water in the oil or oil in the water. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Michael Read more
Thank you for your reply.
I have now had two sprinter CDI's, a 311 and 313 and both have ended up with a cracked head. With four valves per cylinder there is little metal between the valves and the head tends to crack between the valves. If you have a later vehicle is is easier to fix, you will still need a new head, gaskets etc. but if you have an early CDI i.e. 2000 there is a problem in that the injectors which are very long and narrow and go right down in the middle of the head can seize in. You have to get the injectors out to remove the cam cover before you can get the head off, so like Mercedes you would be likely to replace the whole engine unless you want to smash and replace the cam cover. So the cost of a new complete engine is more worthwhile. I have been advised that the injectors on later engines are less prone to seizing. I just got a second hand engine from a crashed van and fitted it. With only 36,000 miles on it, it was less than a quarter the price of a new unit.
Good luck with your van,
Regards,
Michael
Don't ignore the haynes manual if you are fitting a new distributor Gene. I tried to fit an after market disi to my 1993 polo and it went on 180 degrees wrong . The problem was that the plastic disc and retaining dowel that slots into the camshaft had been placed on the unit 180 degrees out at the manufacturers . This is easily done when you look at it.
The result of this was that the hall sensor sent electricity to the ecu, there was a spark from the plugs and fuel delivery (which there hadn't been previously with the original disi ) but the enginre wouldn't start because it had been timed up 180 degrees wrong...