April 2004
Hi,
I own a Nissan Primera '99 2.0 Sport which recently had an unusual major brake problem. As far as I understood - I had a problem where my brake fluid dropped without any warning. The whole system on one side of the vehicle was replaced and new brake pads were put on the back. This cost me c. £250.
Unfortunately the brake pedal was still giving me 'feedback' which the garage confirmed was the ABS kicking in everytime I came to a stop. They road tested it again and determined the ABS was working fine apart from the problem. They advised either that I live with it or replace the ABS (at a very high cost!)
Now it seems to me (with only a rudimentary knowledge of mechanics) that if the ABS is working fine that this seems like a drastic option. It sounds to me like there is a minor ABS problem but perhaps the garage doesn't have the real expertise to fix it?
Is it possible the ABS is still confused by the brake problem I had previous and then perhaps could be reset? The brakes work fine but the ABS kick in is annoying and hardly inspires confidence. Not to mention the resell value!
Any help would be great!
Stu. Read more
Anybody know the best place to go to get one fitted & how much?
OK, I've got AC, but really miss a s/roof.
Are aftermarket ones any good?
Cheers for any help... Read more
These people seem to manufacture sunroofs for the motor industry, both factory fit and aftermarket. Note that almost all cars are suitable.
I've had an opening sunroof for almost all of my 30+ years driving life and will want such on my next car, if I cannot get a factory fitted unit I will have to go aftermarket....
(Ok so I know this is ment to be a car forum...)
I've been given a small 3.5hp petrol powered mower only a couple of years old. The gilfriend's dad gave it me after it cut out on him when he mistakenly filled it with diesel from a can. He said it ran for a couple of min, lost revs, then stalled. When it would'nt start after many atempts he realised his error. It would be helpfull for me to get it going because I've just moved into my first house and with the expense of everything don't realy want to be buying a new mower just yet.
Anyway, I drained the all diesel out, took the spark plug out, pulled the cord a few times and a black oily-diesel stuff came out the spark plug hole. I cleaned it up as much as I could by poking a rag into the hole with a screw-driver. I've also checked the plug still works in another mower, but the thing refuses to fire up at all. Any ideas or am I chasing a lost cause? Read more
>>Thanks for all your advice guys, if it eventualy stops raining by the weekend
Seems like it's been raining for five years!
Having heard you can use chip fat oil as a substitute for diesel fuel, I was wondering whether you could use new sunflower oil or new vegetable oil? Is veg oil better to use than sunflower oil? Also, can it damage the engine using this as a fuel. Finally, can one mix the diesel with the sunflower/ veg oil safely?
What are the differences between the two oils (diesel vs. sunflower)?
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5 litres of rapeseed oil went in the other day, along with some Millers Diesel Power Plus. (It was due for a shot of this anyway), and then topped it off with diesel.
You can't tell the difference - I suppose there's not enough RS oil in there to really make a difference.
For those of you that own older Hondas you might like to check out the link below from Honda UK - they have full workshop manuals online in pdf format - very useful indeed (and let's hope more manufacturers do this!):
www.honda.co.uk/owner/workshopmanuals.html Read more
This is strange as you say Richard. My pads appear to have been installed without copper-slip. Of course the pistons corrode eventually because of the mixture of alumunium and steel. I've now gone to the expense of buying new shims which may or may not fit generic pads ie. pads made by other manufacturers. I also got the cam belt changed because of lack of evidence of this being done, only to find the old belt in perfect, yes perfect condition! The marking on the Honda belt was 0-06, which I take to mean june 2000 Oh the misery of trying to get things right! This is our reward for focussing on the mundane instead of real issues. Regards,Mike.
Last July my local Peugeot dealer fixed the non-working air conditioning on my '99 306 Hdi; my receipt states they "replaced leaking air conditioning pipe as diagnosed" and "regassed system" which fixed the problem.
Now, some 9 months later, the first warm enough day to fully enjoy it, and I find it's not blowing cold, at all. I've occasionally used it over the winter but it's hard to tell in the depths of a cold spell if it was working then; I think it was.
I've covered about 16k miles since then. Does this warrant the need to attend to the system again? I haven't yet spoken to Peugeot yet but I don't like the idea of having to have the aircon seen to every year, particularly as I do use it all year round, to maintain it. Read more
If it's just the pipe clip corrosion issue WURTH chemical metal around the pitted pipe and a re-gas is a cheap fix although i would be amazed if the condensor isn't crumbling at that age and mileage
Hi all,
Have just driven my wifes A3 for the first time in a while at the weekend. The clutch only has to travel about 1-2 inches in order to change gear. Is this a sign that is worn or can it be adjusted?
It is mid 2001 with 46k miles. Read more
Somewhat speculative but....
My Octavia's clutch pedal broke and the symptons were that the pedal bite moved right up to the "top" of the pedal travel. Then the pedal gave way completely, and i had no means of using the clutch. To be clear (and i've had two malts) the clutch itself was fine what had actually broken was the plastic tabs that operated the clutch cylinder. Mine was not the first that the Skoda dealer had seen, and i was glad that the car was under warrenty, because it is quite a fiddly job.
The Octavia clutch is hydraulic, as is i believe the Golf Mk IV, so possibly the A3 is the same. FWIW the car has done 101,000 miles on the same clutch, the only hassle has been the pedal itself
i am having major problems with my 306 td, basicly the thing has really bad trouble starting from cold.
Ive tried changing all the glow plugs, but that hasn't sorted it.
Im thinking that maybe theres a problem with air getting in the fuel, so i want to try and bleed the fuel system.
So ive looked at my haynes manual, but it says to loosen the bleed screw in the fuel pump inlet pipe union bolt, but doesnt explain where that is.
So if anyone can explain where the bleed screw is, or shed any light on anything else that could be causing the problem, i would very much appreciate the help.
Cheers!!!!!!!!??????
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If you had the correct voltage on the glow plugs I fail to see how the relay was 'blown up'. I can't account for the very short life of you glow plugs unless they were of poor quality. The only way you could damage them is by applying more than 12 volts and as that is all that's available to you its unlikely to be your fault - unless someone tried to start it by applying 24v!
If I had dirty injectors what sort of symptoms would I get with the car?
Tried using one of these cleaners that you add to the fuel and will see what happens. Read more
Instead of using expensive cleaners put a pint of petrol in your tank this will clean any dirty injectors.Diesel is so clean these days injectors last for an eternity it is only the cleaner manufactures who ttry to make us think we are still in the dark ages.
10k miles Mondeo 1.8 SCi collected on Saturday. I have just completed around 130 miles of mixed motoring this evening when the oil light came on while doing 70-80mph on the M60.
Pulled off straight away as the next junction was close and checked the oil. I was surprised to find the level was over the max on the stick. When I restarted the light stayed off, so I drove the short trip home and fortunately the light stayed off. After about half an hour I re-checked the oil level and it was still way above the full mark. I understand that overfilling can be as bad as running underfilled but surely a main dealer would not send a car out like that?
Would overfilling cause the light to come on? If so why would it take 3 days to do so? Any info. would be greatly appreciated before I take the car back to the dealer tomorrow.
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Turns out it was a faulty pressure sensor. So hopefully that will be the end of it. Although I have done almost 300 miles since the oil was reduced to the correct level, without a flicker from the oil warning light.
Thanks to all that offered advice.
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Sorry, a bit late but have managed my ABS (51 1600) for about 5 yrs. after a service at a nissan garage brakes were a bit funny! complained but "we did nofing rong guv" reply. changed ns drive shaft and problem reduced but still not right. i have pulled the fuse for 5 / 6yrs apart from just before the mot and no probs. changed brake caliper rear may 2010 and no reluctor rings are broken so will just sally forth as before - great car for the money and only problem to date (bought new).
PS did the same with a similar renault also for a number of yrs. wish abs would b***** off for good!!!...