March 2004
Fiesta 1.1. No oil level showing on the dipstick and the sump pan covered in oil. Turns out to be a pinprick hole half way up the side facing forwards. Anybody repaired something like this without having to take the sump off ? Appreciate any time saving solutions.
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Hi
I've a half used tin of Selenia semi synthetic oil stored in an outbuilding. It was probably last used 6-8 months ago for topping up. The top of the outside of the can has got light rust on it (the outbuilding is quite damp) though the tin is sealed OK. Will it still be OK for topping up or should I call it a day and track down a new tin?
Cheers
Mick C Read more
Link from a previous thread:-
www.rotella.com/answerresult.php?rowid=48
Has anyone else been confronted by a strange graunching noise when the front end is bounced vigorously , occurs also whilst negotiating vicious speed humps. Copious amounts of spray grease and WD40 fail to solve noise. I have heard 2-3 other Astra's exhibit the same fault . I suspect noise is internal to the shockers , any other thoughts ? Read more
My '52' reg Astra makes the kind of noise discussed when cold/wet/been parked up (overnight), and only on certain speedbumps. Had suspected the bushes but not too worried as the noise is only present under those conditions. Am concerned there could be a bolt having it's thread sheared off though... is there an easy way to spot if this is the case without too much dismantling?
FYI, noise first noticed at about 24k miles, only 'bill' to date has been 2 front tyres at 27k miles - now done 31k and noise very rarely apparent.
Talldave
We just bought a 1998 Avensis 2.0 CDX at auction, and of course there's no owner's manual. I can figure out most things but the Sony radio/CD/cassette player seems hellishly complicated! Is there anywhere I might buy secondhand/download a manual? I assume my local Toyota dealer will want silly money, if they can get them at all.
Also, the interior light has me puzzled. I've been used to a three-position switch - on, off and on when door open, but this one seems to have only a two-position switch - on or off, opening any of the doors doesn't make the light come on. Something simple I've missed, or defective sensors in doors?
TIA Read more
In my experience a better approach is to write to the manufacturers UK headquarters 'Customer Inquiries Dept.'With every new car I have had, I have asked....
1). Could you please help me with an owners manual.
2). Has this vehicle been the subject of a safety or product recall. VW once fixed a headlight switch for free as it had not been done. Give them the VIN number. This also puts you on the list for future problems.
3). Could you please let me have a list of UK and EU dealers.
SAAB and Fords were very good supplying everything for free. Mercedes typically said get it from a dealer. The manual was about £4. Still worth having.
Try writing to Head Office. The safety check alone is worth it.
Until today I hadn't seen one of these for about 14 years. The stickers I refer to are the ones with weasel words stuck over the speedo disclaiming mileage responsibility.
Problem was the car was an approved used at a main dealer therefore I'm a bit suspicious. I didn't have time to query it at the time as it was just a quick cursory inspection (intend to perhaps go back at weekend)
Am I right to be suspicious or has the dealer just not had time to verify the mileage yet? Is this standard practice at all dealers nowadays? The car I'm looking does has v low mileage (15k on a 00X) Read more
If it's a Ford dealer they will have the information on their >> computer.
Same applies at BMW dealerships.
As far as I know the microchip on each main key also records the mileage data as at last usage.
Oz (as was)
i get in my car,turn the key,after about 1min it starts,it cranks for ages before it gets started after that, all is well,when its warmed up it will turn over no problem,the car is a 93 pug 405 gldt,also on another problem,its jumps out of 5th,when the accelerater is pressed the gearstick jumps back when depressed it goes back in ??????help ,many thanks john Read more
Have fun replacing the glowplugs at the timing belt end of the engine!
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
A friend of mine has a 1927 oldsmobile with a 2.8L six pot.Having trouble in getting the mixture right.Apparently it has a shebbler updraught carb fitted.Any advice would be welcome. Read more
Thanks for the information
Regards Dave
Last week I parked my car on the way home to pop into the shops. On returning to the car it would not start. When I turn the key all I hear is a click then nothing. It started fine at the beginning of my journey, and the lights work fine. Could this be a problem with the starter motor?
I don't know if this is relevant, but a couple mths ago I had the chassis wire replaced due to wear, after that the horn stopped working and I don't think the alarm works anymore either. Could there be a connection between this and the car not starting.
Please be advised I know very little about cars, so any help with simple instruct/advise would be great. Read more
Definately sounds like a classic case of Rover starter motor failure to me...
You could check the connections, but as it clicks, you can rule out the most troublesome connection anyway.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
The seat belts on my 18 month old Peugeot 206 have become very sluggish to retract, sometimes getting shut in the door when closed, sometimes tripping me up when I get out etc. Took it to my friendly dealer, asking for the spring return mechanism to be re-tensioned, and got back to be told that the cure was 2 new belts (under warranty) at £98 each + VAT + fitting. Surely something like this must be adjustable? Perhaps I should have taken it to one of my local country garages and saved Peugeot some money. So many things seems to unadjustable and can only be replaced but not fixed. Read more
P.S. I bet you turned over your mouse for a peek.
[thread hijack]
You need an optical mouse!
[/thread hijack]
My car is shod with 225/45 ZR 18 tyres. They are due for replacement and I've found this size to be quite rare (and expensive). It's been suggested that I can change the size to 225/40. Is this feasible and what effect will it have.
Thanks in advance. Read more
Just to add to ND's and LHM's sound advice;
The 225/45 18 will have a diameter of around 660mm, the 225/40 will be around 637mm. So as ND says you will travel about 70mm less for each rotation, around 3.5%. Ideally you should try and keep this difference to a minimum (<2%?).
To reduce the aspect ratio to 40 but maintain the rolling radius you'll need to increase the width of the tyre to around 245 or better still 255 (653mm and 661mm respectively). These sizes may turn out to be more expensive than your originals and in anycase may well cause a problem with fouling the wheel arches etc.
Whatever you decide to do, I'd certainly run it by your insurers beforehand as it may be deemed to be a "modification".
Chad.
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Thanks for all the advice. I did consider using a self-tapping screw but concluded the area around the pin hole was probably rather thin to hold it. So I cleaned the area with an angle grinder to get to some bare metal and applied Plastic Padding (chemical metal)ensuring that some went into the pin hole. It wont stick on the inside of the sump but should help to anchor the repair and its well bonded on the clean metal outside. Doesnt leak anymore but I discovered another area weeping oil so I think the long term answer (if it passes the next MOT) is a new sump.