November 2003
Hello
I have 5yr old 145 cloverleaf, 48k, and recently when I accelerate and more recently when I brake the handbrake light comes on.....any thoughts what this could be?? The handbrake is definately not engaged.
Also, at very low speed if I turn wheel slightly to left and slightly to right (not full lock) I get what a clunky noise - not very technical but can't think how else to describe!
Any help appreciated
Thanks
Ben Read more
One for the audio guys: How can I get rid off the buzzing noise through the speakers whenever I play a CD? The car is a mkIV Golf TDI-PD with standard VW radio/cassette and single CD player (separate) mounted in the dash. Radio and cassette are OK, it's only the CD player. I can narrow it down to interference from the injectors, as it only happens when the throttle is pressed, or at idle - it goes away when I lift off. Read more
In the old days, when it was just a radio, I often sorted such problems for friends. The usual cause of the noise was because the negative/earthy lead of the radio had not been taken back to the battery negative. It was connected 'conveniently' to the nearest bodywork. You have to recognise that a car body carries current from the other equipment, on its way back to the battery. If you tap into this current with the negative wire, you risk picking up/hearing noise in the electronics. A battery has such a low impedance that it is almost impossible to have any interference signals across it. So, as a first try you could see if you can run the equipment with wires from battery (properly fused) and if that cures it, you can then look to see if there is somewhere more convenient and nearer you can use. Most car equipment today usually works fine BECAUSE this earthing problem has been sorted.
Guys,
any of you know how to change the light bulb that illuminates the heater controls in a 2001MY polo?
I've managed to get all the covers off, and I've un-done all the screws, but can I get to the back of the unit....
(No haynes manual for this MY, the VW EPC tells me the part number, but the diagram is no good, and I don't want to pay VAG £50 to change a £1 bulb.)
Any help appreciated
TIA
Joe Read more
Yes, I agree - the bulbs should be covered under warranty....but some manufacturers have certain exclusions/stipulations............
My lips remain sealed.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
My Galaxy failed its MOT yesterday at the local Ford main dealer ("significant braking effort recorded on all 4 road wheels even though brakes are not applied") - which I thought was a load of bull as I'd have noticed it in everyday use, plus the computer would have shown increasing fuel consumption. I tested it on an incline and it freewheeled as normal. I had it tested at another garage today and it passed with flying colours (plus it only cost £35 against the Ford dealer's £40.75 - isn't it a standard fee??). I feel compelled to tell the Ford dealer he's either incompetent or maybe attempting to drum up unnecessary business. I also wonder about contacting Trading Standards or someone like the AA, because clearly there is nothing wrong with the car. I'd be interested in opinions. Read more
Thanks folks. I stand corrected.
This appeared on a local motoring site today. I do not advocate this practise, however, I post it to show how goofy some people are! [hopefully Quentin Wilson didn't do this report on GMTV today ...]
For FWD Drivers
Has anybody tried tray-sliding?
Get 2 hard plastic trays. The kind some mushrooms come in. They're marginally bigger than the footprint of your rear wheels.
Some crafty trimming with a craft knife will allow you to park your rear wheels on them. Pull up the handbrake, drop the clutch and let rip.
In an empty parking lot preferably.
Fun for a few minutes - until the security guards get to you. Don't forget to release the h/brake to effect your getaway.
Now, let me see what the Mrs has got stored in the cupboard... Read more
I think we had a demo of cars racing this way on the Driven program a while back. I recall it was on a track with old bangers.
My Pug 405 tdi est was changed as per the book at 72K. It's now done 123K and is fine but should the second last like the first ? Read more
I see no reason why the belt itself shouldn't last just as long, as long as it was the correct part and properly fitted.
You may want to check if the cambelt tensioner was changed with the first cambelt though, as i think it is a common point made on this site that the tensioners are not fitted 'for life', and can often be the cause of a belt failure themselves. I'd go for a 60k change anyway, if the belt died on 71k you'd kick yourself for not changing earlier and be potentially facing a £1000 engine rebuild.
Is the new City Rover doomed to fail?
I think so. Dated, not that cheap and built in questionable quality cirucmstances.
Read more
Whatever, it will probably ride better than most Euro-hatches. Why have new cars now got ultra low profile tyres requiring loads of energy sapping PWS and giving a bumpy ride. Give me 70-section tyres, 15" rims any day. No bumpy rides after that. The indicar will be fine in that respect.
Whats the best riding car on the roads today - answer Mercs. Why? because they fit higher profile tyres. Try a volvo S60 - ridiculous 55-section tyres for a family car. I felt every pimple on the road the day I had one.Merc C200 65-section tyres - no problem; no pain.
Vehicle: Peugeot 406 1.9 diesel turbo Estate
Hi Guys,
I've started to notice a 'whooshing' sound on acceleration. It sounds associated with the turbo although when stationary revving the engine there is no noise. Is there a hose to the Turbo that may have split?? any ideas??
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am... Read more
Hi Richard,
Thanks for the advice. Glad to say I identified the problem- the intercooler to inlet hose had a 3in split in it. A fabricated repair using a best piece of B&Q drain pipe and two jubilee clips coupled with a bit of elbow activity with a hacksaw and job fixed!!! I have ordered a new hose from local Pug agent at £35 but the temp repair is holding well.
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
Does anyone have any idea roughly how much my insurance might go up if I modify my car to make it go a bit faster? I was thinking of a few tweaks (like changing the air filter) to 'up' the BHP a bit but not by a stupid amount. It is currently a group 15 and I have a clean licence with no accidents ever (touch wood). Cheers.
JC33 Read more
I researched along these lines and found several BR threads recommending Liverpool and Victoria Insurance who quoted me zero increase on a 20 bhp increase on my 90bhp Picasso turbo diesel using a tuning box. Not the most difficult decison to make!
Hi
have a feeling my head gasket has gone and pondering what to do next. The cars been with me 3 years and clocked 75k miles in its life, 98R 2.5 petrol. Car has always had a water loss problem sinse i purchased, not much, about a pint per month, so never bother to chase at dealer. FSH history with Vaxhaull for everything else though.
Now just as i'm about to try and shift car on, for an upgrade to something newer, i get this guilty feeling i shouldn't be selling a car with a water loss problem, so i start looking into causes. Had compression test done and all seems ok, all cycliders(x6) around 16. All hoses look ok, no visible leaks, so thinking its the water pump.
Borrowed the tools from a mate to deconstruct all the gubbins at front end, and new problem reveals itself before i get chance to start.
Now i've got oil in my water system. Not a little. Very noticable when cap removed, this thick film of emulsified oil. Also now seeing a mist of white in the oil filler pipe.
Is this definately now the head gasket to blame. If so what are the options.
Is it possible to pass this problem though with a p/x for an upgrade and go un-noticed. Never p/x before but was considering with the water loss issue, but now a bet wary with oil in water as noticable to anyone removing radiator cap.
That said, do p/ex deals involve this kind of inspection or not.
Thinking if i go to a Large Supermarket, where they simply pass these cars to an auction, they probably dont care... as are giving you rock bottom any way....
Donning flame-proof poncho awaiting responses...
Mak Read more
Not familiar with the Omega at all.
First compression test is not proof positive of sound head gasket (too crude a test).
Best way is to squeeze the water side, most garages have the kit for this IIRC it is a pump and adaptors to go on the expansion tank and the idea is to squeeze it to just over operating pressure, say 1.5 bar (ish). If it does not hold then there is a leak.
Now to finding the leak, made more complicated by the fact you have an oil cooler, a study of the layout and fittings will enable you to determine how to carry out the test with the oil cooler out of circuit (blanked) and then in circuit. Alternatively if you can remove the oil cooler it may be possible to put a squeeze on separately.
Good luck
NormanB
I would have thought
Browse
Many thanks for your advices.