September 2003
89 golf 1.6 30000 miles
Ive been having gunk in coolant (as described before in these formus somewhere) had it flushed and they tested for head gasket failures by testing for gases. Still got gunk in coolant and today the cap fell off at some point going into to work, must of fallen off really late since keeping eye on temp gauge because of gunk in coolant. Anyway got new cap from vw garage and g12 coolant - is this the right stuff - before flushing the coolant was blueish, slightly blue after flush. Ive filled the tank back up (this evening) with water (took about 1 litre) and ran the engine, squeezed pipes, put in some more water and bit of coolant. Then drove home, stopped half way to check everything is ok, got home and noticed the fan isnt running but the temp gauge was at or over the half way mark (noticed going faster made the temp go down!). Im getting the bus tomorrow, dads back at the weekend, but im away for the next few weeks
Questions :-
1. is the g12 (pink coolant) alright to use given some blue coolant may already be in there?
2. is 350 quid from the vw garage good value to change head gasket?
3. is the fan knacked?
4. the car was serviced (about a month, 250 miles ago) when the coolant was changed - should the garage have spotted the fan?
5. is the car alright to leave as it, the vw garage guy seemed to think that the corrosion of the engine would take ages?
6. is had to use tesco spring water is that ok?
Thanks
Dave Read more
I've owned a lot of petrol cars over the years and am used to the oil after a service remaining fairly clean and golden coloured for a couple of thousand miles at least.
My new diesel-engined car has just had its first service and to my surprise the new oil is (after checking the level after just 15 miles!) as jet black as the old stuff. I realise that the oil in a diesel does blacken quickly but after 15 miles ??
Could there possibly be a residual sootyness left in the engine bad enough to contaminate the new oil like this or should I be suspicious and tackle the dealer about it. Read more
An HDi engine will stay cleaner longer as it a cleaner running engine than the old IDI unit.
Better (more efficient) combustion results in less soot sontamination of the engine oil, therefore it stays cleaner for longer.
I have now decided to get SWMBO the A4 Avant that she has been eyeing up for some time (chiefly because used V40s and Golf Estates are the sme sort of price) and think that I have narrowed it down to 2:
P reg 1.9tdi (110 bhp) 60k miles £7.5k
S reg 1.8 SE 47k miles £8.5k
The diesel being £1k cheaper might swing it for me but would appreciate any thoughts that the BR might have. Mileage that will be covered will not be huge and I anticipate keeping the car for quite/very long time. Read more
PS as I was exchanging the car for a younger one with 35k on it (flogged to my sister), I don't think that the wife would have been too happy with one with 100k on the clock. It was bad enough getting her a car which was older (although I was surprised that she noticed!!)
I am in the (long drawn out) process of re-registering my UK-reg but USA-built 1992 Honda Accord coupe in France. Only sticking point on the 'controle technique' (MOT) test is the headlight pattern. It has plain lenses and I had taped them so the lights 'dipped' to the right, just as I used to do on every other car I took to France. I think I may have been wrong to do that though, because presumably it only works if the lenses are 'patterned' to aim the beams. My question is, do I need to buy new 'right-dipping' units or would it be possible to simply use the adjusting screws on the headlight housings to re-aim the beams from the existing lamps to suit driving on the right?
Hope this makes sense... Read more
ps again...
the replacement Honda headlights cost a quoted 856 euros a pair in France
(just over £600) plus fitting. The beam-benders and the main dealer's labour cost me just under £20. I think I would advise anybody in my position to try the beam-benders first...
Just had a new cat fitted to my wifes 1998 1.4 Saxo. It was fitted at a discount exhaust place as the cost was very good. Howver the new cat now "booms" especially on the overrun. I will take it back but any ideas. I can't think what could cause this. there are no leaks.
Ideas and comments appreciated. Read more
Thank you. Its true that it seems to have got quieter over the past two days (or my ears have become accustomed to it) I will give it a week to see if it improves further.
Sometimes the cheapest is not the best.
Why are parts for the Leganza so ridiculously expensive if supplied by a Daewoo outlet?
Example 1. Catalytic convertor supplied and fitted by Daewoo garage £560.00. Same thing supplied and fitted by local garage with 2 year warranty £180.00
Example 2. Cam belt and tensioner from Daewoo garage £260.00,
Supplied and fitted by local garage £160.00, parts bought from motor factor £70.00 including VAT.
Example 3. Air conditioning condenser and cooler, £600+ quoted by Daewoo garage, repair by specialist air con repairer, job complete including free check to determine the cause of the problem £360.00, this includes 3 year warranty on parts.
Most of the parts for the 2 litre engine are cheaper if GM branded parts are used rather than Daewoo branded parts.
Anyone had the same experiences?
Read more
I have just gone from drivig a car to riding a bike and I have a question which involves tyres. I have started riding with treaded tyres (not knobbly) thinking that they would be best for wet weather on roads. But I have been told that bikes don't go fast enough for the tread to have any effect, therefore slick tyres would be best as more rubber would be in contact with the road,even in the wet. This is opposite what I was used to in a car, does anyone know if this sounds right? Read more
The tread isn't there just to push the water out of the way.
The blocks move as they contact the road and warm up - not a huge amount, but enought to make a difference on a cold wet day.
Contact pressure with the road is greater the more tread there is.
When/if the tyre starts slipping, the increased flexibility of the rubber helps grip the surface.
Slicks are evil in the wet - especially if it's been dry for a while and a nice slimey oil film has built up - nevermind tar overbanding in the wet.
I have owned a Citroen C3 for 6 months and the diesel preheater light on the dash board has never come on - I appreciate it has not been cold in this period but want to know if this is OK - The car starts fine - Read more
See this thread where preheater lights on modern DI engines was discussed:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=15...2
As long as it starts OK don't worry about it. It's a DI engine anyway so will probably start after only a short time without any plugs (unless it's really cold!).
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
What's the general feeling about rain sensors?
Mine didn't turn off soon enough after short showers so I had them de-activated and forgot all about them. But a friend with a new BMW swears by them so now my wife wants me to get ours activated again although I reckon they're a bit gimmicky. Thanks for all advice about my mirrors too, I got them to sort of work, but I have to 'wake them up' every morning first. Read more
I have rain sensors on my Merc and I they work superbly. The wipers come on as soon as it starts to rain, speed up if the rain gets heavy and turn off just at the right moment.
My freinds golf had sensors and they didn't work very well at all though.
Prowling round the car supermarket where I live and looking at motor oil yesterday, I note the following (I have made the sterling conversion at today's rate for the sake of clarity).
On the shelves Mobil 1 sells for £4.52/liter. Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Caltex Havoline, Shell and Castrol brand synthetics sell for (+/-within a narrow range) £2.76/liter. From my local gas station Petron (that's the Philippine national oil company 40% owned by Saudi Aramco) synthetic sells for £2.58/liter. (For the sake of comparison, Caltex fossil 15w/40 sells for £1.41/liter). All rated API SL by the way.
Question: why is Mobil 1 more expensive for apparently a similar product and why would I buy it when there is a wide choice of cheaper and apparently identical synthetic oil alternatives in terms of specification?
Next question: what is the point of semi-synthetic oil? It appears to be something and nothing. My Harley Service Manual demands semi-synth in its transmission yet I have run it on Pennzoil 80w/90 fossil prior to changing to HD's own semi-synth a few months back and noticed no difference whatsoever (i.e. engaging first from neutral still frightens small dogs and old ladies hehe).
I await enlightenment.
Read more
What engines available in the uk actually recommend 20W50?
I mean if I put that in my car it would pack up and die in no time!
Blue
On my old 85 Mk2 Golf and the few others from that era I've driven, the temperature gauge always sits at halfway up the scale under normal conditions - it may actually be that it didn't work properly before, and you managed to knock the right thing :) They generally will run cooler as you go faster because of increased airflow over the radiator.