February 2003
looking ot buy one of these. Had one offered for 500.00 (M resg 1.8 80000 miler) it seems an ideal Battlebus replacement. The only fault of any note is the Airbag warning light. It stays on. Any ideas ? Is this an MoT faliure ? Read more
Hi everyone
I recently bought a 2nd hand car from a dealer that had contintental winter contact tyres on the back wheels. I have been told these have limited grip in the wet.
I was wondering if it is common practice and OK for dealers to sell cars with tyres that are potentially dangerous on wet roads to unsuspecting members of the public like me that merely think they look a bit "chunky"
Thanks
Matt. Read more
As I recall, when I used to use mud & snow (M+S) tyres during rallying, they tended to be made with a 'harder' compound than ordinary tyres (though they could be had in soft compounds sometimes). This was because running in mud and snow conditions is very harsh on the tread and can wear tyres out very quickly (as an example - on one winter road rally I took half the tread off a pair of new road tyres fitted to the rear of my rear drive Avenger - I had M+Ss on the front and they hardly lost any tread even though about 60% or so of the rally was on snow and ice).
It's probably true (as a result of the harder compounds used) that these tyres do not have as much grip in the wet as modern road tyres designed for wet grip (directional tread, silica compound etc). However I think it's OTT to suggest they are dangerous. I have used M+S tyres under various conditions, including wet tarmac and have never had any real problems. Of course, there are good or not-so-good ones.
Get used to your new car gently over a period of weeks, then see how you feel about how the tyres are performing. If you are still bothered then change them.
I've just acquired a '94 Peugeot 306 XRDT but it didn't come with a handbook so I'm a bit in the dark about some things. I think it's got remote, central locking, alarm and immobiliser but the plip doesn't work remotely (the central locking works but I have to do it manually). I've just put new batteries in the plip and the little red light flashes briefly so that seems to be ok. I've just been reading how to programme plips so will give it a go tonight. Why would I have to re-programme a plip anyway ? When I turn the ignition off a little red light next to the radio/cassette buttons starts flashing, what does this indicate ? There's also a small button on the side of the steering column, when I press and hold it in, another small red light to the left of the central air vents just above the radio/cassette, lights up. What's this for ? Read more
Hi,
I have a '95 Peugeot 306 XLDT the small button on the side of the steering column is to switch off the interior sensors, but I just leave them on that way when car is alarmed it will sense any movement in the vehicle and sets off the alarm.
If you can't lock the doors with your plip, but it seems to be working ok you may just need to re-programme it, I don't know why they need reprogramming but I had to buy a new plip from peugeot and that was £60.
Kind Regards
Tigertim
HJ refers to checking ATF level on his section on checking a used car out. ATF?
Also he refers to mayonnaise under the oil filler cap. Now I'm pretty sure I could spot this but if I was a dodgy dealer, I'd probably change the oil when I was putting on the forecourt, so is there any other way of spotting gasket probs especially if the engine's been steam cleaned?
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Mayo: Look for any sign of cloudiness or "rainbow" film in the expansion tank. If you suspect the cooling system has been flushed, test drive the car, taking it for a good few miles so the car gets up to temperature, then walk away! Pop back the next day with a "mate" on the pretext of showing him the car, then check the expansion tank again.
As for ATF, check the dipper and sniff the fluid. If it smells of burnt toast, walk away. Only this time, don't bother coming back the next day.
Back in 2000 complaints about light switch on M reg Passat and no joy from VW.I've been through four switches on an N Reg (also one pass side window switch failure)
Interested to hear of any others apart from original complaint. Have inkling there is a design fault in wiring sparked off by headlight dip switch which appears to send 80amps ( severe overload) into light switch unit which eventually blows. Interestingly you will find it hard to find second hand switch from breakers. Should this tell us something ?
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Colleague had a 94M Passat whose headlights failed early on. AA/RAC and VW garage fixed/replaced switch and/or wiring - car was later subject of recall by VW for this problem (see Car-by-Car breakdown). I bought his car from our leasing company at 100k, sold it in 2001 at 122k, no problems with switch after initial trouble.
Hello everyone
I got a 1998 "R" Puma 1.7VCT last summer for 'er indoors to pose in. Everything's fine, except I've noticed that the speedo needle seems to "wobble" (best way to describe it!). It's not a new problem, it's been doing it since we've had the car, and doesn't seem to cause any problems. It seems worse between 30-50mph and doesn't vibrate so much at higher speeds. The odometer rolls round no problem, and tacho doesn't do it either. Has anyone got any ideas about solving the issue? I know it's not much, but it does irk me every time I drive the car.
Thanks in advance,
Regards
Anthony Read more
If the speedo is electronic as Gazza suggests, it won't be cable driven - well not in the "spinny round and round" type of cable anyway. It'll be cable as in electrical stuff.
Non-controversial posting this time:-
Are the tax reminders late this month for renewal in March?, it doesn't give you much time if a holiday overseas is planned and it is overlooked. Read more
Hmm - reminds me of the time, not very long ago at all, when I rushed in to the PO to renew my RT.
Having filled out the form, queued for ages, I was then told that I still had a month to go on my existing tax.
NOW I know that the date means the end of the month, but I didn't then. You live and learn, I guess.
HF (being very HFy at the moment, my apologies!)
Hi, hope someone out there can help me! I have recently bought a rover 416i P reg and it has no handbook. I need to to know what type of oil it uses and what the tyre pressures should be (and any other useful information I should probably know)!
Thanks Kat Read more
I AGREE WITH THE TOAD 10W40 IS IDEAL - WELL I USE IT IN MY 416 GTI ANYWAY!!!!!
does anyone have any recommendations for a fuel additive to clean gum / lacquer from inside carburettors.
this being the residue left from unleaded fuel after winterisation.
aware of redex, stp & wynnes but have been informed there are better products available.
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My local independent also has the "Forte" range and fully believes in its claims,and,if i'm correct there is a treatment for diesels which he strongly recommends.
I've got a 1998 Fiat Punto 75 SX 1.2, multipoint fuel-injection and 34k miles. From time to time the idle speed starts to surge up and down, and the fuel injection warning lighr comes on, although generally speaking not at the same time. I don't have access to a code reader, but I'm guessing that it's the idle speed stepper motor. Plugs and filter are OK, and the system has had a good dose of Forte injection cleaner. Is there anything else I can do before I try taking the Idle control Valve out for cleanig (Don't fancy doing this cos the torx screws appear to be made of cheese!)
Thanks,
jonbenj Read more
hi jonbenj
Had the same problem it was the fuel temp sensor.i think what happens is the temp sensor starts playing up and the ecu thinks the car is cold and sends more fuel to the injecters and so the car suddenly revs by itself.Hope you can understand what i am trying to say.Sensor was about £20 and is very easy to fit.
shaun
Browse
Just a point regarding this excellent model of car, I have a 94 1800, a persistant water leak being its only problem in 10 years was traced after weeks of topping up to the header tank. Its leaks along the seam and is untraceable, I changed mine in desparation as a last hope. They expand when hot and leak, then close up again when cold. Only cost £1 from breakers to cure.
John