February 2003
I have an M-reg ford escort 1.3 and about 2 weeks ago it developed a problem. The engine revs too high until the car has come to a complete stop for about 3 seconds. Even if the car is just rolling slightly in netural or clutch in it will rev to about 3,000 revs. It keeps reving even when the car has stoped but after about 3 seconds it is ok. This never happen before i had a new battery put in but straight after the new battery this problem started. Could this problem be connected to the battery or is it just a coincidence. Any help on this would be appreciated.
Graham. Read more
I'm thinking of buying a used new model Mondeo LX 2.0 or 1.8 hatch or possibly estate to replace our 1994 1.8 petrol (I'd like a TDCi but it's beyond my budget and any way I'm a bit put off by the starting and other problems highlighted in this forum). We tow a small caravan, max permitted weight 1050kg, which is only 75% of the petrol models' kerbweight, but I'm a bit worried about the relatively (4500) high rpm at which max torque is developed in these engines, though I don't know what the actual torque curves look like. Does anyone have any experience of towing with these two engines, please?
One other point; HJ mentioned some time ago that early models had front seat problem - not kind to the coccyx, and plastic pins protruding through the padding. Any advice on what registrations/production runs to avoid here, please?
Many thanks
GrahamM
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Having lost my Rover 827 last week (Head Gasket, say no more), I picked up a 1990 Jag XJ2.9 Auto, 11 months MOT yesterday.
It is only firing on 5 cylinders and there is a distinct air 'sucking or blowing' sound from the head.
My local garage have told me that it's not too serious but the head will have to be removed to replace a worn gasket which is allowing air to be sucked in and stopping the mid cylinder from firing.
Does this seem like a right diagnosis to you guys in the know ?
If so, can it be bodged and how ?
thanks
David Read more
Try posting this in "Technical", lots more knowledgeable people in there.
Having lost my Rover 827 last week (Head Gasket, say no more), I picked up a 1990 Jag XJ2.9 Auto, 11 months MOT yesterday.
It is only firing on 5 cylinders and there is a distinct air 'sucking or blowing' sound from the head.
My local garage have told me that it's not too serious but the head will have to be removed to replace a worn gasket which is allowing air to be sucked in and stopping the mid cylinder from firing.
Does this seem like a right diagnosis to you guys in the know ?
If so, can it be bodged and how ?
thanks
David Read more
Hi,
Thanks for your reply & advice. I'll go & have a look now.
The guy at the garage showed me a series of knurled, 'allen key' type bolts located across the head. Specifically, he showed me one bolt in particular, with a piece of gasket sticking out underneath. He said this damage was letting in air, causing the misfire.
I am looking really for confirmation that his explanation is credible.
As I said, my Rover 827 died last week and I've been thrown into a right mess. OK, I know buying an old Jag XJ2.9 is a bit of a gamble but it has a 50 week MOT.
Your help is truly appreciated.
thank you,
David
The multi-function display in my 94 Omega CD is dodgy.
it :
- stays on after the ignition is turned off, showing the date/time, onboard computer, and CD display. it will often click on an off every 10 seconds or so with the ignition off.
- is fine once the ignition is on, ie doesn't flick on/off
- the CD security code has to be input each time the ignition is swtiched on
It's now flattened a brand new battery so i can't ignore it, but the local Vauxhall bandits want £80/hour to 'investigate' before actually doing anything.
Appreciate any ideas as to root cause or simple checks to make, or if it sounds like something a general auto-electrician at £30/hour could diagnose/fix. Read more
Grant, sometimes the grub screws aren't there. It depends if the radio has been previously removed or not. Some people don't bother putting them back in afterwards. Anyway, the four holes (regardless of whether or not they have grub screws in) are on either side of the front facia of the radio (two holes either side - above one another) If the removal tool won't go in, chances are the grub screws are still there and will need removing with an allen key. You *should* easily spot the grub screws as they're normally flush with the front of the radio facia, unless of course someone has screwed them in and they're now recessed deep in the holes.
Replacement units are easy to fit. Usually you'll need to change the cage that the radio sits in, unless fitting a replacement of the same make of course, ie, Phillips, Grundig, or Blaupunk. If you fit something else and it doesn't have ISO connectors, Halfords sell those as well so that you can marry up the new stereo with the cars existing wiring. However fitting a non Vauxhall unit will mean you lose the separate radio display and will have to update the clock and date functions manually from time to time as there will be no RDS signal to do it for you.
IIRC, Vauxhall dealers sometimes sell recon and new units at reasonable prices.
Having an ignition problem on 89 Vauxhall Senator 2.5i - Getting a jumping spark from the distributer cap 'glove' (a metal strip by one anchoring point) to the cap retaining spring clip. The problem is much worse at low revs. Any ideas for a quick fix? (or should I just remove the 'glove' totally?)
Many thanks
Martin Read more
Better fix the cause than the symptom, Fit new Cap, Rotor, Leads and Plugs.
Andrew
Happiness is a T70 at full chat!
I am looking to buy a small(ish) 5 door car - VW Polo size approx costing around £5-£6K but having read reviews (with some horror stories over faults) on various sites including this one, I am a bit confused as to which to go for. For short list I have VW Polo 1.4CL, Skoda Fabia 1.4, Ford Fiesta 1.25, Seat Ibiza 1.4. or Renault Clio 1.4. Would appreciate any comments/advice good or bad that could help me make a choice. Read more
Forgot about the Micra! The old shape will be sold off cheap now I expect - but the downside being higher depreciation than the new model. Also, what about an Almera? An excellent car that sells for peanuts second-hand because us status-obsessed Brits credit it with zero image!
Baz
Dear all,
I own a 1995 M Suzuki Swift GC.
The aerial has been bent by a previous owner and so doesn't extend fully enough to receive a suitable reception. No amount of effort will extend it!
I was wondering if any of you could suggest a remedy... preferably cheap!! If I go to a breakers is it just a case of unscrewing the aerial and yanking it off (I'm not very technically minded). Alternatively, what would I have to do with a coat hanger to receive a decent reception.
Many thanks
Rob E Read more
Buy a Halfords Rubber Duck-a soft flexible plastic aerial-then no-one can do it any harm.
Does anyone know the easiest way to tension this
Access from above severely limited by power steering pump and lines, with head of tensioning bolt up against the bulkhead
Haynes manual says take wheel and inner wing cover off, and perhaps even the timing belt cover, but this still means working blind in a limited space
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Just rented one of these 420 miles,topped it up twice and worked the MPG out to 41.7.Feels like a solid car,bit sluggish(no turbo)strange spec (Classic) no central locking,DIY windows and mirrors,inc pas and a/c.I dont know what kind of discounts are available but the list of 8K seems a bit dear. Read more
strange spec (Classic) no central locking,DIY windows and mirrors, inc pas and a/c.
That sounds odd, I thought they all came with central locking?
PAS is standard across the range, so is ABS, but leccy windows and aircon are both options on the Classic.
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Sticky idle speed control valve??