December 2002

rcflyers

I have a PSA XUD 1.7 Turbo diesel engine in my Rover 218.
It knocks like hell when cold and is still very noisy when hot.
What can i do to quieten this racket please? Read more

jc

I have never come across a tensioner failure but I know cars when serviced properly had a steel tensioner pulley fitted.I would suggest anyone comparing cars reads HJ's car-by-car breakdown.

graham sherlock

Can someone confirm what type of oil I need to use when topping up, to keep within warranty. Also, is it done to supply your own oil for a garage service. I was skinned for the oil that Marshalls (Ipswich)put in it at the last service compared to the previous service done at a small, independant Skoda dealer. Does brand really matter? Read more

DGW

First, what model, engine and year is your Octavia? Second, does it list QG0, QG1 or QG2 in the list of optional equipment in the vehicle data in the inside front page of the Service Schedule? Third, what details are recorded in Next Service in the Service Record?

If like mine your car is a 2002 1.8T with QG1 in the Service Record, and Variable Service recorded in the Next Service details, then you must use a fully synthetic oil complying with spec VW 503 00 such as Castrol LongLife SLX2 0W-30.

But you shouldn't need to ask your question on this forum. Read the General Maintenance section of the Owner's Manual and the Service Intervals sectiion of the Service Schedule for the answer.

Question Varta or Yuasa
ian

I'm about to buy a new battery for a bmw compact, choice is between Varta and Yuasa which are both the same price (£59). I have a 1994 Toyota Carina E, with an original Yuasa battery which has been left standing 10 days in the past few weeks and the car still turns over well and fires early! The man in battery shop says Yuasa do well with Japanese cars but Varta recommended for Germans. Sounds like hogwash to me, has anyone else had outstanding service from Yuasa or have I just been lucky, I'm inclined to stick with them. Thanks, Ian Read more

Mr Smegma

I'll second that, they both make quality batteries and I doubt that either will let you down.

Dipstick

I have to reverse every day into a narrow space from a very narrow road. The kerb on the opposite side of the road seems outrageously high (approximately ten inches) which makes it into at LEAST a five point turn, with traffic waiting, and even then I often catch the front spoiler. The local Council, I'm told, say "tough". Is there a legal maximum height for a kerb on a public road? Read more

neil 1

No - but if a footway is next to the kerb a barrier would be needed for pedestrian safety! A standard kerb height is 125mm (5").

mikem004

Nissan Micra K11 -- N reg 1.0L.
An intermittent fault. The "handbrake warning" light often comes on in mid journey. [Exclamation mark in a red circle.]
Just driving over a pothole can make it come on -- or when I brake at the bottom of a steep hill 1 mile after starting up in the morning.

* Seems to be worse on cold mornings -- maybe the sensor behind the handbrake arm?
* Brake fluid is Maximum; brakes seem OK. This Micra does not have sophisticates "low brake level" indicators as far as I know.
* Turning off and restarting often cures the problem -- an ECU issue?

Any ideas on this?
Thanks
Bruce
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Alfafan {P}

I don't wish to hijack the thread, but my Alfa75 brake warning light comes on briefly every time I brake! It isn't the brake lights, low fluid, worn pads, it's a case of "they all do that sir." One of the joys of owning an Alfa, getting used to the quirks.

rcflyers

Can anyone please tell me the symptoms (more noise, loss of power etc) of a diesel injection pump with the wrong timing (too far advanced or retarded)
I have 2 rover 218 cars, one has the citroen 1.9 non turbo engine, the other has the citroen 1.7 turbo diesel engine.
They are both noisy (diesel clatter) when cold, but when warm, the 1.9 quietens down, but the 1.7 is still very clattery at idle and under load. also the 1.7 has no bottom end power until the turbo starts boosting. the 1.9 has a lot more bottom end power, but obviously is not as lively at the top end due to lack of a turbo. The turbo engine gives 11 psi boost maximum.
I haven't noticed either car emit black, blue or white smoke.
The air filter is OK and the new fuel filter i fitted to the 1.7 has made no difference.
Does it sound like an injector/pump timing fault or something else.

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Jon Cunningham-Smith

Assuming Marsden1002's advice of an italian tune up didn't work (Revving hard)although I suspect this helped if you are a gentle driver, then as follows:

Retarded Pump timing: Less power less noise less smoke(to a point)

Advanced pump timing. More power more noise more smoke.

Obviously, if the pump timing is tweaked too much either way, it won't run at all.

I suggest finding your local diesel specialist (not Rover dealer) and talking it through with them. I'm sure they could diagnose if there is indeed a fault.


Cheers - Jon S

brambob

My father in law was diagnosed with glaucoma in one eye about 18 months ago. Because of this he has to have an eye test every 12 months. When he had his last test in September 2001 he was given the all clear to continue driving but this year the results were less good and he has had a letter from DVLa telling him that his licence has been withdrawn.

This has had a shattering effect on him because his main pleasure in life was to go out in his car. The sight in his good eye isremarkable and he can read things that I can't even though I have new glasses that are only a few months old.

Can anyone suggest any steps that he could take to appeal against this? He has driven over 50 years with no accidents and has written to DVLA to set out the points made here - however they seem completely unsympathetic. We know of at least two people who have been allowed to drive even though completely blind in one eye. He is going for a further eye test to verify the results of the previous one but not until the end of January 2003.

Any comments/suggestions gratefully received.

BobM Read more

HF

Phil I -

thanks for that -'copacetic' isn't even in my dictionary! So the mystery continues......

Battle still the same - as in banging head against brick wall, and still real possibility of losing home - but I'm really grateful for your continued interest - thanks.

Thanks for the offer of email - maybe I will do that.

Take care,
HF

Big John

I am wanting to know which cars have quiet diesel engines including at tickover and continental cruising speed. Most are reasonable at 30-60 but many are boomy at higher speeds (my passat didnt seem to bad - but after 200 miles it gave you a headache) and dreadful at tickover (I have to sit in many miles of stationary traffic!). Before my last car purchase (Skoda Octavia petrol& very quiet) I test drove some VAG diesels (VW, Skoda and Seat) and found them too noisy at tickover and boomy at speed. I tarred all diesels with this brush until I was given a lift in a Peugeot 307 HDI , VERY refined indeed!. Trouble is I have not been a fan of Peugeot in the past due to reliability problems and soft seats. The seats are better now, reliability???


Which other reasonably priced (sub 15K) diesel cars are also as refined? Magazines seem to concentrate on performance/economy rather than refinement/comfort.

HJ mentions the Yaris Diesel, is this refined? Read more

1litregolfeater

I have diesel experience of only the Vauxhall 1.7 DTI.

It drives me mad when I drive it, clacketty ignition rattle every where I go....

Dizzy {P}

This is further to the discussions we have had on the value of having a franchised dealership carry out steering and suspension checks on BMWs.

I had heard that ATS do a very good job of 'tracking' so I asked the local branch if they could check and set my 1992 BMW 525. They apologised and said that it had to be done by a BMW dealer. I asked why and was told that BMWs and Mercedes are upmarket cars that need special treatment. I wasn't entirely convinced that they were right but appreciated their honesty.

Next was a non-franchise BMW specialist who said that there was no special problem with BMWs and they could set it up perfectly with ordinary electronic tracking equipment. I queried the reason why ATS would not take on the work and was told that it is common for the adjusters on BMWs to be seized and require heat and dismantling to free them. This is true -- I had already checked mine and found them to be seized and it took a lot of work to free them, involving removal of the whole assembly from the car. All the same, I thought I would check out the cost at a BMW main dealership.

I phoned a large BMW main dealership and was put through to their tracking equipment operative. He quoted me £125 incl VAT. I asked why the cost was so high and he replied that their steering and suspension setting checks were quite complex and took a couple of hours, and the cost was mainly labour charges. He then said there would be another 1/2-hour charged if adjustment was needed!

I asked the BMW man if it was truly essential to have BMWs checked with their equipment (called, I think, a KDS check) and was told that, frankly, it was needed only if the car had suffered a bad knock or there was uneven tyre wear that couldn't be corrected by simple tracking adjustment. I was assured that if the tyre wear was even it needed only a simple tracking check that could be carried out with any equipment. Very honest of him.

I then called the local Hi-Q branch, following a recommendation in this forum, and was told that their equipment was the very best and could do all cars. Cost: Free if no correction required, otherwise £24.65. I took the car there but, after a discussion amongst themselves, they decided that BMWs could only be tracked by someone with specialist equipment which they hadn't got. They gave me the name of another local tyre dealer who could do the job. Co-incidentally, that was the dealer who had ordered some new tyres for me and I was going there that afternoon anyway! So off I went.

I had my four new tyres fitted and the steering and suspension electronically checked. I noticed that it was only a front wheel check and I queried this. I was told that they could do a four-wheel check using their new £26000 machine but this would cost me a lot more money and the rear wheel alignment on my car is not adjustable anyway. They said that if the tyres are wearing OK there's nothing to worry about.

So I now have four new 225/60R15-V Continental Eco CP tyres balanced & fitted, with steering & front suspension settings checked and toe-in reset at a cost of £360 inclusive. I'm pleased with that because the next lowest all-in quote was £442 (and the BMW dealer wanted £625 plus that extra 1/2 hour!). As I've found before, totally independent tyre retailers are able to give the best deals.
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John S

Aprilia

Sounds about right. Just had the rear suspension bushes and some front bushes done on my 3 series at a BMW independent. Included in the cost was £80 for 4 wheel laser alignment, although I don't know what make. Car is fine after the work.

JS

Richard Turpin

Late N reg Fiesta. I only have the red key which is the master key. I bought a spare and carried out the procedure for "teaching" the new key with chip what the code was. on off 4 times with the master followed by twice with the new one. Trouble is the new key only works for about an hour after it's been taken out of the ignition. After that time it seems to "forget" the immobiliser code and the engine won't start. I "taught" the new key 3 times. Same every time. I got a new chip for it. Same again. The car works fine with the red master key.
Can anyone suggest what is wrong? Read more

rtj70

I liked the comment of keeping the red key on the same keyring as the new key and holding it to the ignition barrel.... :-) Of course you'd have just used the red key.