March 2021
So I was hoping for some advice or guidance, I’m expecting to change my car in a few months and I already know what I would like to get (octavia vrs) so that’s not an issue but it’s more how should I go about it.
I would like to get the 2017 onwards facelift version with fairly low mileage so have been looking in the £15-£17k range. I am expecting to get £5k from my current car and will potentially have another £5k to add onto that as a potential deposit. This would then make for a reasonable monthly amount under PCP for 3 or 4 years but is it wise to put as much down upfront as possible? And if it is would PCP be best or rather a normal loan for the balance?
I don’t know if I would keep it beyond 4 years, if I did then I would carry on paying monthly via another loan or use the difference as a deposit on another car.
I’ve never gone down this route before buying cars so would just like help on the best way to buy a car in this price range. Thanks Read more
With your indulgence
Observations requested for grey Landrover Defender... Read more
Thanks Avant for your understanding
dvd
Hi,
I was planning on moving to france for a couple of years
So here is my problem
If let’s say I export my Uk registered car to France and put it on french plates for the period I will be living there for and then a couple of years later re import the car back to england and decide to sell the car
Will the hpi check show the car as an import? Read more
Someone here mentioned it already but driving a rhd car in France for 2 years might be a bit of a ball ache.
Not at all. We moved to Austria in 2009 and took our RHD Saab with us. It was no problem, we only replaced it with a locally bought car in 2015 due to it reaching the end of its economic life.
Every day I log in, this forum is full of spam messages. I don’t know who maintains the software behind it, but this kind of problem has been fixed decades back. How is it possible that dozens of spammer bots post stuff every day? Is it time to maybe look for a more competent web developer? Read more
"if the "hidden" spam can still be accessed by Google's index bots (very likely if the mods can see it) then it will still serve the spammers purpose. They need to be deleted like the 7000 asap after they arrive."
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This vibration is also felt in the boot lid and back doors. It's worse in the steering wheel though.
I have a vibration in the steering wheel at idle that is in tune with the rpm. It is there from the moment i start the engine and in park. I think it is there all the time but a lot less noticeable when driving.... Read more
Thanks. The fast rattle only happens when the revs reach about 2000+ or the turbo kicks in. Lower gears mainly (car is automatic). It's not a constant rattle iwith acceleration.
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My daughter has moved to a town where parking is tight but she needs a car as she is a carer for disabled. Its likely she will only do about 100 miles a week but occasional journeys on motorways etc.
... Read more
Beware of rust! Especially underneath at the rear.
Check MOT history for any tester's notes. A car with a long list of items needing attention has not been well maintained. Vehicle MOT History - GOV.UK
The best option survives. www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/ford-mustang-g...d Read more
8 volts seems atypically low. Would require high currents to get the power.
I understand even hybrids use a minimum of 48, and EV's are in the 400 to 800 range....
WHICH have just released its latest survey on manufactures official MPG and real on the road testing and they show big differences. PHEVS in particular show badly. To achieve any where near what is claimed you have to use the battery every trip. This in itself is hardly surprising!
This started me thinking about buying one of these hybrids say 5years plus second hand. You are looking at the mileage say 60k. How are you supposed to work out how it has been driven in those years. For, instance a lot of company drivers have never charged the battery and others used mainly their battery. So the dilemma for some might be what is going to give me a problem first the engine or the battery? So why buy one of these second hand? Or it could be sooner or later I could have a problem with both. IF the battery fails I can perceive owners not bothering to replace it. Read more
Skidpan, if the dealer does not get back to me this week he can shove his deal. My deposit was placed on the proviso a test drive would be provided and if not happy (or not possible) a full refund.
Give me 1 thing that puts you off the most when you visit a company for an interview?? Read more
Give me 1 thing that puts you off the most when you visit a company for an interview??
When they are really a spammer pretending to post something real-world related in readiness to sell you some pills?...
Hi, 99% sure I need to replace the battery in my 2013 Seat Alhambra 2l Tdi with start stop, have trickle charged it a number of times and it's not holding charge even after 50/60 mile run. Current battery is Exide TU3 EFB 79Ah, 720A (EN/SAE/GS), from all I've read I should replace with same or better, I'm open to going to an AGM battery and have found a Bosch battery that I think I'm happy with. Appreciate it will need recoding, will be asking a garage to install. Only thing is I've also read that I should go for a battery with at least the same Ah as current, this seems impossible, I can't find a EFB or AGM with 79Ah or even 75Ah. Would appreciate any advice on implications of a lower Ah on performance/battery longevity or if I've not thought this thru correctly. Many thanks Read more
Looked on Yuasa battery list . Lists a YBX 7115 type which is 85 ah and 760 cca . Perfectly adequate for your application. Or an Exide el 752
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VAG extended warranties are amongst the best but only if you buy them before the car is registered. If this is the case you get exactly the same T & C's as the 3 year manufacturers warranty and no excess to pay....