June 2016
I've been having trouble with the cruise control on and off for about a year.
Symptoms started with the exclamation mark being displayed in the MFD when the cabin of the vehicle was hot (parked in the sun). After a few minutes of driving and a lot of the heat gone, the CC would work.
It started to get a lot worse last summer and I sent the car in to VW, who replaced the stalk. This didn't fix the problem so it went back and they replaced it again.
That didn't fix it either, but as the weather started to change and cool down, the problem went away.
Fast forward to today and it's worse than ever and will occasionally disengage if I drive over a bump in the road. Sometimes waggling the stalk around or pushing/pulling on the steering wheel will make it start working again but equally it won't.
I've scanned with VCDS and the only fault is Cruise Control: Implausible Signal. When I can I'll upload the scan if it's needed.
I'm going to book it back in to VW, but I don't really want to play part replacement bingo with them!
I'd really appreciate any help anyone can offer.
Thanks ?
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When I visit used car showrooms, many have had the interiors cleaned with a shiny car polish - why I presume is silicone spray?.
Why do car dealers use this rubbish?.... Read more
A spammer retrieved it but I've deleted the post.
Under the old original software there was a way of putting old threads 'back to bed' where they came from when this sort of thing happened but I don't think that is possible now. At least I've not found it yet...
Hi all,
I am considering buying a 2002 Volkswagen Polo, automatic 1.4. There is no rust anywhere on the vehicle, the engine bay is very tidy, test drive seemed okay, although I think I noticed a slight knocking noise.
I looked up the previous MOT history, and the only recent advisories that concerned me are as follows:
nearside front Shock absorber has a light misting of oil (2.7.3)
offside front Shock absorber has a light misting of oil (2.7.3)
I wonder if this related to the knocking noise I could hear. Does anyone have experience with this advisory? The car is going for around £1000, so not expensive, but I don't want to be replacing shock absorbers on day one.
Any thoughts? Advice?
Thanks. Read more
First port of call with a slight front end knock are the antiroll bar bushes
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The new engine looks very good on paper.
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Details of Duster 1.2 TCe 125 (200Nm) now here: www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/dacia/duster-2012/?s.../ I emailed Renault and we're probably getting one to test in about 6 weeks time. Meanwhile Renault has some Twingo 0.9 110PS GTs in the country and, interestingly, they are RHD.
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I should be grateful for any advice on which relatively inexpensive cars have a heated steering wheel either as an option or preferably as standard on a top spec car. That's because my wife has Reynaud's, one symptom of which is icy hands, and she would really like to swap her car for one with a heated wheel. Gloves unfortunately just don't achieve anything for her.
I say "preferably as standard" because our preference is to buy about 2 years old after the steepest depreciation and finding a model with heated steering wheel as an added extra could be very difficult.... Read more
Thank you all for your helpful advice
Can anybody tell me where the Crankshaft sensor is located on a 2004 Berlingo Multispace 1.9 HDi?
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Thank you 'hardway' It was exactly where you said it would be and I have now replaced and all is good!!
very best wishes to you for replying to me....
Please can you people help me out. After I bought a new Toyota Etios 2014, about 6 months, it started jerking (going faster and slower) without me using the excellerator. Then all of a sudden it started revving up. I can drive about 1km after starting the car, trying to stop at a stop st or robot and it will rev up to about 2000 - 3000, and this is when I have my foot on the brake. Even if i drive downhill, freeing, not using the excellerator, it revs up to about 1500. I took it for all services, complaing about the problem, but was told I can't drive and that it's normal. I then wrote to Toyota SA, who asked whether I have a problem to start the car, which is no and their conclusion was that it is the battery. I tend to differ and please help me out on your opinion. My opinion is as follows:
1. It could be a faulty airflow meter or being dirty... Read more
Hi there. It is a 1500 petrol vehicle
I have a 60 reg AUDI TT SPORT TFSI QUATTRO with 48K mileage. I recently had the car serviced at a VW and Audi specialist workshop per Audi service schedule. One service item was replacement of the rear haldex oil (first ever for the car). Two days (~50 miles) after the service I experienced a loud noise and loss of power whilst driving at speed on an A road. Luckily I was able to pull over safely and on inspection of the car by police and RAC the vehicle had suspected damage to the rear differential and was leaking oil. The car is back at the workshop that performed the service and I have been told the rear differential is cracked and needs replacement although the cause of the damage is unclear. I would like any thoughts to help understand what can cause such damage and how if the haldex oil change was maybe performed incorrectly this could in fact damage the differential to this extent. Anythng to help me have a knowledable discussion with the garage is greatly appreciated. Read more
Is there any follow up to this? I had the Haldex oil changed on my 60 reg TTS and managed 200 miles before the diff cracked. I've found a huge number of related incidents on various forums, but most of them are within warranty and so the forum runs dry...
What happened? Was the oil tested / confirmed? Was analysis carried out on the diff? Was it replaced because the garage was at fault? Was it replaced because the part is known to fail? Did you end up paying for it yourself?
Hello,
I've scoured the internet and I'm not having much luck, hopefully someone will be kind enough to provide me a answer.... Read more
The big bolt that holds the fuse box is earthed. Get a Ring Terminal connector and that should do the job.
I have a 2l diesel 308 and the aircon doesn't get cold.
I've checked the gas pressure on the low pressure side and it's happily holding a sensible pressure and the relay clicks when you have the engine running and turn the ac on so the pressure switch is working ok too, but it just isn't getting cold
Does this suggest it's the compressor knackered or something else on the high pressure side?
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Needs a re-gas, air-con system doesn't like being off for long periods. Should be used all the time, even with warm/hot air to keep the gas, otherwise you have to keep paying for aircon re-gas.
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Thanks for your help. I guess the steering control module will be next on the list at vw.