June 2015
Hi
when driving my car today the battery light has appeared on my dashboard followed by the handbrake light (the handbrake is off obviously!), then the odometer was reading ----, then the speedometer wouldnt move past zero and my indicators stopped working. the heated windscreen light also came on and despite pressing it several times it would not go off. the radio and hazard lights are working fine. any ideas of what is causing these issues... Read more
Currently looking at used Corsa 1.2's for our daughter who has just passed her test at nearly 18.
With budget of around £1000 to £1200 there seems to be a glut of these cars and they dont seem to be selling. I'm missing something and dont know what it is!... Read more
well I bought her a Corsa in the end but had to travel nearly 100 miles for it. 06 plate, 74K, 2 owner, last owner 6 yrs, stamped service book, dark metallic silver (the right colour for her!) drives like new and nothing near as bad as any of the other ten I looked at and no leaks either. A few cosmetic scuffs and badly scratched alloys (replaced for £30). Price paid £1300. Very happy with it so moral of the story is wait long enough and the right one WILL come along!
So - clutch biting point is quite high, have to press the pedal no more than one inch to engage it. Sometimes hard enough to get car into first and second gear - feel like I'm forcing it and I can hear a slight thud from the drive shaft in the process. There's an intermittent judder (rather than a clean bite) when pulling off from a stop. No noise, vibrations or slippage, and the pedal feels normal. 63,000 miles, 10 years old, mainly city driving.
If it needs a new clutch unit, what's the labour time?
Does a new clutch mean a DMF too? ... Read more
€850 in Dublin to supply and fit a LUK brand clutch and DMF. €500 for a clutch alone. DMF doesn't involve any extra labour - just an expensive part.
Hi I have a concern regarding my Mondeo. I was driving on cruise control 75 mph 6th gear, just over 2000rpm. I felt a slight rocking motion. I turned the CC off as I thought maybe it was playing up. This did not stop the problem. I have since tested the car and it seams there is an issue when the car is over 2000rpm. If accelerating it does not seam to be affected. I never drive it hard so not sure if any real loss in power. Smoke is visable on acceleration but not excessive amounts (Not like a Mallard any way). I suspect something to do with turbo or sensor, reading the threads I have not seen this issue listed. Your help and advise is most welcome.
... Read more
Hi Jaybee
What's it like on idle? My Mondy had a similar problem. It would surge slightly whilst cruising. My car would also surge slightly on idle.
I started by cleaning out the inlet manifold and EGR valve. (Not a difficult job but very dirty!) this helped a bit.
I then got the injectors re-coded. This made a big difference. Smoothed out the idle and surging at speed. It seems the injectors can loose there coding. This is basically a fine tune for the injector.
My surging problem did eventually come back. I think my cars ready for the injectors to be serviced.
Hope this helps.
Chris.
from starting from cold, loud engine knocking under accretion, until engine has got to working temp. I'm thinking engine oil pump problem? 62 plate, 25000 miles Read more
Thanks for responding
Yes still under warranty until sept 2015
I have taken it to ford and left it over night but I was told no knocking was heard I did take the foreman out for a run and show that this knocking is loud under acceleration
No knocking was heard as is the engine was warm
I believe this is a fault as it was not heard before
No problems with any power or starting issues still have good fuel consumption no extra black around around the exhausts
Just I take it easy until the temp is up and thereafter no problem until the next morning! I would be sure if you heard this knocking under load you would back off the power.
I'm sure it wil go bag one day.
Information please,How easy is it to change the oil pump? What is the proceedure? do you have to remove the sump cover? The problem I have is the tappet noise,I had had a new cam, rockers,and lifters fitted now they say it may be the oil pump. Thahk you... Read more
On most engines its a pretty involved job changing the oil pump. Not familiar with VX engines but Ford engines of the same vintage would require sump off and timing belt off both of which are not that easy with the engine in the car especially since the Ford engine uses the belt cover as an engine mount. Just to get to this point will require several other components removing. Many hours work.
But has the garage actually checked the oil pressure with a reliable gauge. I suspect not since they only say it "may" be the oil pump.
Hello
I am currently looking at replacing my ageing Ford Mondeo 1.8LX (05 Plate) as it is at that point where European breakdown insurance is increasing in price for less and less of a product as both the AA and RAC have said that sorry it is too old to bring back to the UK.
As a family of four adults, full boot and roof box we drive from Lincolnshire through Europe to Austria each year. German and Dutch motorways etc.
Now I know my current car is pretty much powerless (123Bhp, 170Nm torque), whilst it cruises happily at 40mpg at 70mph when fully laden when it comes to some of the hills it sadly lacks somewhat.
The new Mondeo is certainly a beast and am currently trying to decide between the following two engines:
1.5 Ecoboost - 160ps, 240Nm torque which gives 36.2 Urban, 61.4 Extra Urban, 48.7 Combined
2.0 Duratorq TDCI Econetic - 150ps, 350 torque which gives 61.4 Urban,76.4 Extra Urban ,68.9 Combined
Have looked at the Econetic purely as it gives 16inch wheels rather than 17inch as standard meaning tyres down the line will be a little cheaper from what I am told.
Now apart from that major hike through Europe my Monday to Friday mileage is basically 10 miles (20 minutes) from Start to Stop to and from work. My concern is that the diesel is not going to take kindly to this sort of mileage, the dealer said "no problems".
I would love to throw this open to you all to hear what people think, I have only ever bought secondhand what I can afford but this will be bought as an inheritance and will be kept for 5/10 years as I do not tend to change my car often, my current one I have had for 5 years already.
Thanks
Paul
I think you'll find the 1.5 better all round than the 1.8 you had.
I had a 2002 1.8 Mondeo for 6 yrs and replaced it with an Octavia 1.4Tsi which is 122BHP....
Hi we going to do a rally this july that is driving down the col de turin into Monaco, has anyone done this road?
If he has the honda lump then he's got no worries..doesn't mention what year his rover is..
Haven't seen either in our workshop for quite a while now.
Interesting photo. Was that heavy old Volvo the last straw.....?
Morning all,
I have around £6500 to buy an estate car for work and personal use. I work as a farm vet and will do around 30,000 miles a year so looking for something fairly low miles (<60,000) to last at least 3 years. ... Read more
I think if my experence of farm tracks and the outdoors is anything to go by, A Kia Ceed of Fucus's suspension would have your brains in mush by the end of the first week!
The Volvo V70 or Subaru forest would be good options. The Volvo would be solid with loads of space and the engine vary capable of high mileage. ...


Wipers on my old s40 sometimes stopped working. Clearing codes with reader reset system. AA trick to achieve a similar soft reset is to disconnect battery -ve lead, put screwdriver through hole and connect to +be terminal.