August 2010

MondySK54

When driving normally and attempting to accelerate, my power dies and sometimes engine cuts out completely, happening more frequently, car has just had a replacement engine fitted, but using the same common rail components..It did suffer from the power loss problem before the engine change.. but never died altogether!!..Stop and restarting the car resolves the problem, but repeats itself soon after...replaced my Cam sensor switch, no change..someone has suggested the common rail pressure switch!!.as it was showing zero volts and mechanic says it should give a reading of 1-5volts..Any suggestions...this is my worst car ever, used as a taxi..130k...Losing money every day its off the road. Read more

scrumv

2006 TDCi Ghia 81000

Had similar problem for last 2 months. Contacted mechanic and my work who did diagnostics. Told me it showed 2 problems. cam sensor and fuel pump. To make it worse he said that my rattling engine needed the DMF replaced (81K). He changed the sensor but as i had an extended warranty with ford he told to take it back to them. I did and they too put it on test and told me the cut out was due to the DMF. The warranty paid for the wheel but I had to pay £180 for the clutch. 6 days later car cut again whilst driving but as before restarted immediately. Took it back to ford who wanted another £75 to do diagnostics again. Not happy but told them to go ahead. They came back and told me nos 1 & 3 injectors failed needing replacing. They wanted £750 for the job. Asked my local mechanic and he quoted £500 using ford parts. Alas injectors are not covered by warranty. Well he fitted and took car for test drive and said it was going like a dream with a lot more power then bang lots of smoke, Told me the fuel pump had gone. Now this is covered under warranty so the car was taken back to ford via rac. After 2 days with them all they could tell me was loss of fuel pressure. Then they told yes the fuel pump has failed which has now wrecked all 4 injectors including the 2 new ones (2 hours old at time of bang). They are happy to tell me the pump will be covered but not the injectors plus a few other items needed to sort everything out. All they want me to pay is £2200. (Not an option). As you can guess I am not very happy. Despite having the car on test twice and being told that the pump was faulty they never found it until it had done the damage. I have owned the car for 2 years and still paying it off so i would be better off smashing into a wall or something....

daz_free

Hi,

I got my second hand Audi the other week. When I was driving it home on the motorway I noticed it lost power (no turbo), was still able to drive it but no thurst even at high revs. I thought this maybe becuase the fuel was very low therefore I stopped at the fuel station and topped up and it has been fine since this 2 weeks ago. Problem solved I thought!... Read more

mozeruk

I am also getting this - did you get anywhere with it Darrell or Simon?

JimmyK

anyone give me an idea on how to remove this engine cover? cant seem to get it off, thanks. Read more

JimmyK

but its connected to the air filter system isnt it? its definitely atttached at the front, you sure it doesnt need to come off with it? i thought the housing was built into the cover itself

Auto

My Peugeot is eight years old and has a milage of 58,000. It is a 2 litre turbo diesel ,

When do I have to have the timing chain renewed?... Read more

Collos25

160kmiles you can visit your grandchildren without fear.

tarifa

I have read quite a few threads and come to the conclusion that to buy a 2nd hand old diesel I should look for VAG/ Citreon/ Peugeot/ Mondeo engine.

I was going to get an astra 1.7 then read it is unreliable at high mileage!... Read more

659FBE

Get somebody to help you with this if you don't have specialist knowledge.

At around the year 2000, most VAG cars (VW, Skoda and Audi) changed the 4 cyl diesel engines from a conventional type with an injection pump, to a later "unit injector" design called PD....

neilbun

Hello out there

Anybody else suffering from badly scored rear discs?... Read more

topbloke

This is a "known issue" on all insignias and if the customer complains then the dealership are allowed to change the disc's and pads for gratis, Regards TB

sparky28

Hi right its my mates 2004 astra G 1.7 CDTI 80ps

Problem is it wont start on the key starts fine with a bump start or i'm guessing with easy start also altho i haven't tried this yet.

Fuel filter and air filter have been changed and made no difference

When running there is a bit of a knocking noise when cold, sounds a bit like an injector knocking altho this is alot quieter when the engine has warmed up a bit.

Other than the noise which disappears after about 10mins, theres a lack of power past 3k which I'm putting down to the fact that its in limp home mode. Low down the rev range at low speed 2nd gear the car seems to kangaroo every now and then altho this is by no means all the time and only happened maybe twice today in a 30mile trip.

Below is what the fault codes recorded by op-com altho i'm pretty sure the car has never been linked up to tech 2 or alike in its 150k miles so some of the codes i'm guessing are old and just had not been cleared. When i cleared the codes and tried to start the car again on the key no codes appared altho i did not have it running again.

OP-COM - KW2000 Communication Window> 2004|Astra-G|Engine|Z 17 DTL

Total number of fault codes: 6

P0380 - Glow Device General Error
(0B) - Not present

P0105 - Boost Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
(0A) - Not present

P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
(09) - Not present

P1190 - Rail Oil Low Pressure
(0B) - Not present

P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Voltage Low
(04) - Not present

P0560 - System Voltage Low Input
(02) - Not present


Any help much appreciated as mate needs the car next week to get to work

Cheers

Small note: Car was low on fuel but has a full tank now this made no difference was worth a shot Read more

TopGadgy

Hi I've got the exact same problem with my astra and 2 of the same error codes the EGR one and Boost Pressure Sensor, did u have any luck getting it sorted?? cheers

wazza

Looking to buy a car fitted with a panoramic sunroof. It is a sunroof that goes from the windscreen to the back of the car. Was wondering how strong they are and if anyone had problems with them cracking etc. Like the front windscreen the sunroof is part of the stuctute of the car and was wondering how will it stand potholes, rough roads etc. Ford S-max owners have reported seeing crack in the sunroof after a few years. Nissan brochure says they are very strong.

Just that in the past i had a cricket ball smash through my small sunroof on a '96 mondeo.

I am aware that the sunroof is very strong but i leave my car parked on the main road overnight. Some time ago i was woken up one night by drunks. One of them was standing on a taxi's roof taking a leak. True this type of behaviour is not common where i live but what will happen if he stood on my roof? Will the glass crack with this plonker jumping up and down? Can anyone stand on their panoramic roof and see if it takes their weight? Just joking.

Have rang my current insurers and they say it is not covered under windscreen cover and that i have to put a claim in which can affect my NCB in the long run. (Have not bought the car yet, just asked them what if i had a car with a panoramic sunroof) Read more

daveyjp

Our first smart had one - it was an early model and reports of roofs breaking was not uncommon.

General opinion was it caused by flying stones hitting the leading edge. Back then some insurance companies classed it as glass repalcement and only a windscreen excess was payable....

318ci_rob

After having a misfire problem which turned out to be a crack in the coil pack rubber, i fitted new coil packs with new plugs which sorted the misfire, now im still getting both engine management lights coming up, got it put on a scanner on it at a friends garage and has come up with 5 fault codes, so im starting to s*** my knickers, here we go.

2867 - Vanos Overload
2783 - Air flow meter hot film
285A - Vanos monitoring actuator
2865 - Variable valve drive limp mode
2854 - Vanos sensor signal impossible

I really will set fire to this soon, please help, thanks.

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sandy56

if you can try take it to a BOSCH approved garage. Their computers are very good and the technician are usually well trained. a LOT cheaper than BMW

...

asdfg

Hi, I am new here so hello everyone.

Just a quick one I am thinking of buying a new Santa Fe, But My mate said that there will be a new update for next year as the current one has been around for sometime.... Read more

peg

Bought new Santa Fe 2.2 Style 5Seat Auto early July and very pleased with the way it performs, great engine and auto box and a comfortable ride.

My previous 2 vehicles were S-Jags and measured against them I've been pleasantly surprised at the comfort particularly for a high vehicle,also has plenty of poke though can't match a 3lt SE....