February 2010

SteelSpark

I bought my first car back in September, but due to a mix up with the log book, it wasn't put in my name until the end of the year.

Now, in that time, I think my driving was fine, but I was a bit paranoid (as I guess is maybe common with new drivers) that I might have messed up somewhere.

For example, did I just happen to go slightly over the speed limit when overtaking near that speed camera? When I stopped at those lights, did I misjudge it slightly and pass over a sensor on red? That kind of thing.

So, with the paranoia, I was half expecting a bunch of NIPs to fall through my letterbox but, of course, the car wasn't in my name.

The car had been a manager's car at the dealership that was sold on at 6 months, and I have not heard anything from them with respect to the previous driver receiving an NIP on my behalf (although I am not sure they would bother to tell me).

I know that NIPs normally have to be sent out in 14 days, and I have been the registered keeper for over a month now, but I wonder if the change of owner can mean it takes much longer.

The paranoia is getting better now, but I just wondered if anybody knew the longest time that it could realistically take me to get an NIP. Thanks. Read more

ijws15

Paranoia . . .

Already had 3 points and need the car for work.

A moments inattention and I passed a camera which flashed (I thought the infra red flashes were supposed to be invisible but I can see them), the following week I passed a camera van in a recently (days earlier) changes speed limit and thought I was over the aloowance. Note PEP these were MY fault deven if the van may have been parked illegally)

Two weeks of worry but only one NIP for 35 and they offered me an awareness course. That was four years ago, nothing since. Back to zero points and can stop telling the insucance company in July.

oldnotbold

A person well known to me was flashed by a mobile van doing 39 in a 40. They were sent the appropriate docs, and took up the offer to attend the course, all fine.

The owner/driver then had need to check the car's docs and found that the MoT had lapsed before the speeding incident, and had not been picked up by the authorities.

Is this odd? The car was insured, and roadworthy (passed the MoT with no advisories etc), so it was a relatively minor offence, but you'd have thought the process would have flagged the missing MoT? Read more

martint123

All they are interested in doing is sending the NIP to the registered keeper and gaining
their conviction/statistic


They are probably the only ones with a near 100% conviction rate per "reported crime"
Millsy

Hi, I am having issues with a Ford Focus 1.8TDCI 02 plate. It started off with the engine finding it hard to turn over in the cold so i had the glow plugs replaced. This seemed to fix the issue. However, ever since then (i'm not sure it is related) i noticed the car felt like it was kangarooing with a loss of power. A local diagnostic mechanic showed that the mass air flow meter had gone. This was duly replaced (Ford part) at a significant cost but the issue still remains. The computer no longer shows the error but the live data shows that the engine is running at -5c when first starting up. I presume it is this reason why the car is experincing the issues. Could it be the engine collant temperature sensor? Something simple as the fuel filter? Main dealer are asking for rather alot money just to plug it in! Answers greatly appreciated. Read more

WorkshopTech

I have some experience with these cars, and to be honest it would be pointless me just guessing what could be wrong. THere are numerous possibilities, these are very complex motors. You need proper diagnostics by someone who knows what they are doing, not guesswork. I suggest truing to find a local independant diesel repairer. dont go to ford main dealer, they are expensive and usually try throwing parts at faults.

IanRedA4

For a few months now I have been getting a 'clicking' sound when I execute tight turns left or right at v.low speed (walking speed). I took the car to the local independent place I usually use & the mechanic there took a look & said he could see the car 'lifting' at the front when these clicks occur. He didn't know what it was & went with me to the local main dealer - where I got the car, 3 years ago - because he said the chap in the maint dept was a mate of his, & the message I got back was that "it was ok - nothing wrong - something to do with ltd slip differential" & that "I should try fitting Continental tyres". This is ok as far as it goes but I'm not really any the wiser - I haven't changed the make of the tyres since I got the car; I may have replaced a couple but I've put the same tyre back on - Dunlop, I think. So I'm now confused as to how it can be 'ok' if it didn't occur during the first 2.5 years I had the car? I can't believe that there isn't actually a real fault of some kind. Would it be better to spend (£250??) on 2 'Continental' tyres at the front & hope that it isn't money down the drain, or just bite the bullet & go back to the main dealer & ask them if there might not be a slight possibility that they are wrong? My personal mechanical knowledge is pretty much nil, so any advice that anyone could offer would be very much appreciated, thanks!! For information - my A4 is an Avant quattro; I couldn't add that the 'make/model' section because it didn't appear to be available as a selection option. Read more

WorkshopTech

Yea, if its got LSD then they can make a judder and bit of noise at low speed and tight angles.

redkev

Hello all

Only just registered now so apologies if there have been many similar threads. I am looking at getting a cheap car for around £800 (can't afford anything more unfortunately!). Will only be used for social/shopping etc as I commute on the train to work so will probably do about 3/4000 miles per year. I've got a wife and 2 young kids so needs to be quite something I can fit them in. Been looking at the usual, Fiesta, Escorts, Polos etc and I have 3 main questions if anyone could help out?:

Trader or private?
Any cars you would recommend or avoid?
What would be the max mileage you would recommend buying a car at?

Cheers in advance for any assistance you can offer as there's so much out there that i'm stumped and really can't afford to buy a dodgy one that will cost me fortunes!

Kev
Read more

SteveLee

Mk2 Mondeo 1.8LX.



Seen loads of these with mega-mileages - seem to go on forever.
Englishbullterrier

Anyone know if the Varta "Blue" range (I have the E11 version) is a gel battery or standard battery using liquid acid ? Would like to know for (Smart Charger) purposes.

(It is of course, "Maintenance Free")

Emailed Varta in the UK but, guess what, no reponse :-)

Can't call them from here (Latvia) unfortunately.

Many thanks........ebt Read more

Hamsafar

Black dynamic = Cheaper
Blue dynamic = bog standard
Silver dynamic = silver calcium
Ultra dynamic = Absorbant Glass Mat

www.varta-automotive.com/fileadmin/templates/downl...f

Mich07

I have a mazda 6 diesel 136
There is a loud rattle noise coming from the left side of the engine
When looking under the bonnet it looks like the tension pully for the alternator is vibrating?

When I put my foot on the clutch pedal the noise stops
I can also feel a vibration on the clutch pedal

Can these be related as the clutch is on the other side of the engine? Read more

Mich07



Peter

Thanks for reply

Not sure if the alternator has the sprag clutch
Is it possible to tell by looking at it?

How would pushing the clutch pedal cause this to stop though?

lovely80085

A funny thing happened the other day my car was able to drive in cruise control at 31 mph. Great I thought seconds later the auto gears slip sending the revs up, and now I have only reverse and I presume 1st and second gears working. I?ve had diagnostics showing trouble codes po720(output speed sensor circuit) po734(gear 4 incorrect ratio) and po733 (gear 3 incorrect ratio).
I have called a gearbox garage told them this and they said to recondition the gearbox for about 1600 quid. Have you any ideas that could save my car from its doom.

{Post amended - no need to SHOUT!} Read more

WorkshopTech

Quite possibly faulty speed sensor on transmission. Quite common problem on these. £150 if I remember right.

after_burners

please could someone tell how to remove the heater motor from a 1995 renault espace 2.1td

many thanks Read more

after_burners

Yeah it's the old model no digi dash I can see the sound insulation and now I've removed it I can see several bolts above the unit and a couple on the bulkhead

barney100

I was talking to a mate who had just had a routine service on a Bmw 3 series 3 litre W reg and it set him back around £1200. Of course the actual service was no where near that but with extras like a brake caliper and pads etc it soon added up. Safety items can't be ignored of course but I am curious as to what people expect to pay when the garage gives you the bill. Read more

primeradriver

Indeed, I can't imagine that even Ford would be able to stick to the book and come in under £100.

The service will doubtless be little more than the £55 "short service" that my indie offers.