December 2009
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I need two diesel injectors...cost me £70 at main dealers for a diagnostic...Swedish make. It will cost almost £700 inc labour and I have had this car 6 months and bought it from them. Injectors are about £280 each. Is it me being tight or is that fair? Read more
At the worst you'd only lose about £50 at the Small Claims Court. If you win and he doesn't pay an outstanding CCJ won't look good against his business.
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 205 *****
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
Usual rules apply,
No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 204. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
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When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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And why for Windows it's worth using Hibernate or even sleep.
I use sleep on the iMac but switched it's default behaviour so more like an Apple laptop. It's sleeps but writes memory to disk too. Instant turn on but nothing lost if power goes. A boot of the iMac is about 40s to a logged in desktop but starting up two email clients (one private and one for here), iTunes, Calendar, Skype, etc. takes a minute or so longer.
I am seriously considering taking my car to a local independent garage for my next service (2nd minor service) instead of taking it to a Ford garage. Ford charge £130 for an oil and filter change - rather steep if you ask me. goodness knows what they charge for a full major service.
So, how important are the dealer stamps? How much does it reduce the value of the car? (both private and trade-in value).
The other problem with using a local garage is that I won't be getting the stamp to keep the corrosion warranty valid. But I've read that corrosion warranties are not worth the paper they are printed on. So again, how important is this? Read more
Rapidfits work on a fast fit model - they only do basic repairs, but labour is cheaper. They also purchase consumables off the main dealer at a hefty dicsount and then pass part of this on to the vehicle owner.
It's a few years since I owned Fords, but I always received excellent service. I liked the fact I could take my car and wait for it to be worked on, watch what was happening, have a cup of coffee etc etc.
Anyone had what they might consider a slightly dodgy batch of Esso diesel recently? Filled up in Devon (almost empty tank) and fuel economy has dropped from 52mpg down to 39. Same journeys, same driving style, more or less the same conditions.
{made non make/model specific} Read more
I'm sure that whatever problem that particular garage may have had in 2009 has been resolved by now!
I used to like the foot dipswitch on the old Torris Traveller and that pod on the older Citroens that was by the steering wheel and did everything just about. I like the foot operated handbrake on my old Merc but some hate it! Any controls you love or hate? Read more
Why do Mercs have two stalks on left of steering column and none on right?
Proper ones have one only on the correct side the right side, as most RHD cars were in better days.
Does..indicators, dipswitch and headlamp flasher, wipers, washers and all as easy as pie, and the indicators don't self cancel as you go round a cats eye.
leaving your left hand free to caress your lovely wifey thereby making the world a better place;;-)
Ford Fiesta Finesse 1998, 1.3 efi endura-e
I was travelling along the M8 at around 2am the other morning, in my mk4 1998 Ford Fiesta (1.3 endura-e), the car had shown no signs whatsoever that there was a problem, as I had travelled 90miles prior to this in one go. As the motorway came to a junction where it splits(M9 SPUR) and I had to brake firmly down to around 40mph and went down into fourth gear, when I applied the accelerator to go round the vebd the engine stalled and the car rolled to a halt on the hard shoulder, I was quite stumped as there was no warning. I located the fuse on the side of the road and changed it for a replacement 15A fuse (this was fuse number 28 in the auxiluary fuse box under the bonnet) the fuse supplies the engine mannagement system. The car started with no problems and I decided to get going whilst the car was running, I travelled annother 2.5 miles and once I was about one third of the way across the Forth Road Bridge Northbound when the same problem occured, the rev counter dropped to 0 and the engine stalled again, this being one of the least convenient places in the entire country to break down, since there is no hard shoulder. The police showed up after a minute of 2 and by this time I had the bonnet up and was replacing the fuse again, since it had fused again. The car only travelled about ten yards this time and stalled almost immediately. Once the towtruck dropped me and the car off at the layby after the bridge, I toiled and toiled serching all the visible wiring and unplugging the ascosiated sensors (camshaft pos. sensor, throttle pos. sensor, mass air flow sensor, EGR solenoid, the fuel pump and both the 'power on' and 'fuel pump' relays, having not had any luck with any of these, and also the fuel injectors were working correctly also. I had deduced that it had to be an short circuit somewhere shorting against the body of the car somewhere, but this could be anywhere on the car at all. after I got towed home to burntisland, I had almost used up all my spare fuses, and all that I had left was a 30A fuse, double the correct rating, so I plugged it in and switched the ignition on, testing the m.a.f sensor and I noticed a small wisp of smoke and the unmistakable smell of burning pvc, coming from just under the air intake and m.a.f sensor. I switched the ignition off quickly and removed the passenger side headlamp unit and grille from the car. I then unplugged the sensor above the air filter(2pin plug) and the larger plug that supplies the mass air flow sensor, on this grouping of wires, which is taped up with black heatshrink tape, was resting at one point against one off the chassis rails where it comes out to secure the bumper to, but it was very sharp at the top of the chassis rail where the cable was resting under the air intake unit, obviously this sharp weld has been chaffing at the wires forr the last 11 and a half years and just wore through completely the other day. I had to chop and crimp a new set of wiring from the point where the short had occured the heat had caused the cables to fuse together partially.
The reason I felt the need to post this thread was that it took me two days nearly working with a meter and haynes wiring schematics and it was one little short on one wire that caused me all that bother. It also occured to me that this must be a common fault on mk4 fiestas(and possibly the mk5's aswell) since the donor car that I took the replacement wiring from was starting to chaff also and given time would have ended up with the same problem as myself. there also did not seem to be one other person that had had the exact same problem as me when I was searching for a thread that may have related to me yesterday, it really is a big problem when your engine management system develops a fault because the circuit in question(28)aux.fusebox supplies many things, and all of which are essential to the engine's running. Read more
I need to get my tracking done due to a nasty accident with the kerb but I am amazed to find most places are charging £30 or so. Is there anyway this can be done DIY by a sort of trial and error method?
I thought it only took 5-10 minutes so £30 seems very very steep.
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PS what the hell is Nitrogen filled tyres?
Supposed to reduce pressure loss over time compared with conventional compressed air.
In my experience, not worth the extra cost. The tyre fitter talked SWMBO into it when she had new boots put on the Scenic. Made no appreciable difference. But you do get nice green dust caps for the tyre valve. :-)
The AA don't see the benefits either.
www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/safety/filling-tyres...l
Today I managed to scrape my lovely new car on a metal girder in a car park, which has caused several scratches over the wheel arch and slightly further along.
I took it to the Audi Garage who advised that they would need to try and match the paint, and then blend it and the door panel in, they'd then re-apply the "autoglym" polish. Fair enough I thought, makes sense.
I've just received the quote however and it's for £1400 !!
Now, I'll try and upload some photos and put up a link, but these scratches are not big, and whilst I realise that applying primer, and paint, and then blending in will take time this does seem totally excessive to me!
So I was wondering the following:
1) do any of you recommend Chips Away or the such like?
2) If I was to use a non-Audi workshop would this invalidate my paint or bodywork warranty (car is less than 3 years old)?
3) could I get Autoglym out to reapply their polish after an independent place had done the work?
thanks in advance for any tips/advice you have.
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Few main dealers will do body repairs - they'll just sub it out.
Correct. I had the bumper of my M3 repaired by an independent bodyshop after someone managed to leave a scratch along the entire width in a car park. Perfect job, absolutely not noticeable to the naked eye. There were a number of virtually new BMWs parked there because, the owner told me, they do all the bodyshop work for the local BMW dealer.
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Oldgit, chill out, have a Horlicks, its ok to be grumpy, its the new 40 :-) - didnt you see Grumpy Christmas!


A window company using needles and acro props when replacing the window frames? 10 to 1 they didn't and hence the cracks.
We live opposite bay windowed Victorian houses, most have had new windows and I've never seen it done this way. Risky, but industry wide practice.
Alternatively the uPVC window may not be strong enough to support the weight of the bay which can cause cracking.