December 2009
I am stuck in my office in Bracknell which is overlooking complete gridlock on London Road/A329. There has been no gritters at all today. Cars have been crashing into one another and there is no traction at all. Remind me why I pay the local authority so much money. Read more
I need to top up my coolant /antifreeze.
I know you should not mix the pink and blue varieties, but what is in my system currently is just a rusty brown colour. (I'm assuming it was once pink?)
Can I just add a 1litre top up, diluted as per instructions?... Or should I really drain the whole lot and refill from scratch?.... If so, how do I go about this?
Cheers Read more
Thanks guys. Will give it a do over the holidays
Don't believe it! After five years' ownership and 83000 miles without so much as a bulb blowing (averaging around 67 mpg), my yaris D4D cut out today soon after setting off from home. Pretty cold weather, around -4 overnight with it left on the drive, but I've never had this problem before with any other diesel I've owned. Problem started with a slight hesitation after about half a mile (started without problem), and waited until I got onto the dual carriageway to lose all power and then die completely. Managed to coast to a lay-by and then tried starting it again after five mins, which it did. Set off on full beans, but then cut again more or less straight away. Re-started on the move and managed to limp home in second/third. By the time I got home it seemed to be pulling absolutely normally, so the only thing i can think of is waxing fuel. This seems unlikely though, as the other car (07 Honda CRV) parked next to it, filled from same pump, set off no problem. Any suggestions as to where to look? Left it parked in the garage overnight, so we'll see whether it gets me to work in the morning. Whaddya think is the problem? Read more
The fault logged is consistent with fuel icing up...
Anyone have any experience of this type of thing. Appears to be a fabric covering for the driven wheels to help in snow. I have a job that I feel obliged to get to whatever the weather and have always managed (but sometimes only just!). Just wondered if these are recommended by anyone on here (they won't break the bank for the occasional use I'd have).
All comments appreciated. Read more
I bought a pair back in Feb and have now had a chance to use them. Our house is up on a hill in the Cotswolds so which ever way you try to get to it, it involves a ~10% or more hill.
First go was down a hill signed as 20%. The top was almost sheet ice and the rest slippery slush. They were great, didn't feel the car slipping at all.
Used them again the other day to get home. Main road closed so had to go cross country up/down some very steep and narrow country lanes. They did pretty well. There is no way the Mondeo which seems to have no grip in snow would have made it home without. Suspect the Mondeo's problem are the pretty worn Bridgestone Turanzas.
I think autosocks are great. Bit of a hassle to keep taking on/off when you get to gritted roads. The big downside is that they can get ripped up easily. On one steep county lane I ended up wheel spinning and in the process it has shredded one of the socks to the point where it is not fit for use. The sock obviously got down to bare tarmac. The other is basically fine bar a few small tears. Much easier to use if you have two people in the car as you have to partially fit, roll 1m then fit the rest.
I am considering winter tyres as a more permanent solution but will replace the worn sock and be more careful next time. Well worth keeping in the boot to get out of a tight spot.
If you do buy them keep a bin bag in the boot as they are dripping wet and covered in snow/slush once used.
Hello all, new user here.
My wife has owned a Mini One Convertible for just over two years. Bought from a main dealer with 14k miles and FSH. Serviced by them since and now has 26k miles. The car goes to and from the kids schools, shops etc - usual local mileage, no racing, mods or anything silly. Went out of warranty in May but we decided not to renew because what could possibly go wrong on a car of this age, mileage, use etc!!
Last Tuesday the con rod blew out of the block with no warning at all. Engine is a total write off and cost to acquire a new one from BMW and fit is c. £5.5k Main dealer has been brilliant and currently I am being asked to pay £1.1k as a contribution to the labour charge. I'm now discussing direct with BMW as I'm still shocked at such a huge failure on a car of this age and condition.
Has anybody heard of this before. I've trawled the web and found one similar case in the USA. And how much more do you think I might persuade BMW to offer me. Ultimately they are about to lose two customers - my wife who has lost faith in the car and me as I'm about to change my BMW 525 and will probably go Merc or similar now but not BMW!
And any idea what might have caused such a dramatic failure?
Thanks all. Read more
email the Moderators and ask if they would mind emailing MidSussex on your behalf.
Dear all i have a 2003 tdci focus which i must admit is a good car,well was until 1 day the car would not start and had it towed to a garage who told me that it needed a new fuel pump as it was knackered.
Having shopped around i can get a 2nd hand one for around the £200 mark but for a recon im looking at £400 onwards.
This is a delphi high pressure pump.
The 2nd hand one's all have different part no's and i was wondering if anybody would know if the other pumps with different no's will fit even if they are of the same year car. Although they may fit will they work or will it all need coding etc?
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Post amended. No need to SHOUT!! Read more
P/N of replacement pump will need to be the same.
Don't buy secondhand unless you just want a pump to drive it to the auction. £400 also seems fairly cheap for a recon. remember that even if warranted they will probably not pay out for all the labour involved in replacing a faulty unit (could by many £100's depending on what is wrong).
These cars are not really a diy prospect. They are a lot more complex then your typical petrol injection car and if you don't have the right training tools and equipment you will run into a dead end. If you intend keeping the car then get it to an independent garage, someone who does diesels and knows these cars.
Hi my 2 litre diesel estate 92,000 miles has been leaking oil steadily for a while now. I left it in with my mechanic and he is baffled as to what is the cause. He says there is more than usual backpressure coming out the filler opening but none from the dipstick. He thinks this backpressure is forcing oil out someplace. And this might indicate an engine rebuild. This time last year I spent close to 5 grand on high pressure oil pump and a new turbo (not to mention just having had the timing belt done), so I really don't want to get into more expense. Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions? Read more
Actually it might be a good idea to get shot of this car now rather than spend more money. These engines can be quite troublesome.
Hi all i want to know is, where is the diagnostic plug located for a 525d e39 bmw on a 03 plate please.
Thanks
Jason Read more
Hi thanks i have found it now cheers.
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 2 *****
HJ has agreed to an off-topic thread as suggested by a Backroomer. Usual general rules apply but you can have your non-motoring banter in here. If people start getting drunk and smoking and that we'll have to close it down. Nothing offensive or rude etc.
All Christmas Greetings will be decanted in here...
NO POLITICS
Rob
(I must be mad volunteering)
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Volume 2 is here !
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=81...8
Hi general question,
If you aren't using your porsche boxster around the track is t OK to swap the brakes and discs with non-porsche parts if they are suitable and to the same standard. Also is it OK to use an autocentre rather than a porsche dealership to replace pads and discs.
There is a reccession on but I don't wat to damage my car or its value.
Thanks
Read more
Genuine front and rear discs and pads cost £700 or cheaper better made copies can be had much much cheaper.


I should think most of them were trying to get home!
I ran back home from Early station along the A329 - virtually nothing going into Reading, stationary nose-to-tail coming out.