December 2009
i have been out in my zafira today its a 54 plate i have only had it a month and had the wipers on today and 2 or 3 times the wipers just touched together on the swipe down it was not enough of a touch to stop them but i am affraid that one day they it might. is there anything i can do to stop this ,both blades are 24" long i thought if i moved the passenger arm a couple of splines would this fix it or maybe a smaller blade on the drivers side but this would not clear as much screen any advice would help cheers. Read more
A friend has a new Polo and wants to turn off the daylight running lights. Anyone know how to do this. Thanks Read more
The manual say`s that whilst pulling the indicator stalk towards you (flash) and holding it down (left indicator), then switch the ignition off for 3 seconds. I have tried this but can`t get it to work.
If anyone succeeds, please let me know.
Thinking about getting one of these. In the future I am going to be doing more work, callouts and such to people's homes. So will probably be parking in areas I don't know very well - last thing I want is to get my car stolen!
Not sure how much security it would add. My car has an immobiliser and the steering wheel locks itself when key is not in. Read more
Your car comes with an immobiliser, so a Disklock is not required from that point of view.
But it is a big visual deterrant, and it passed Thatchams Criteria.
Is it worth buying a spare set of steel wheels and winter tyres to slap on when the weather gets a bit icy or snowy?
What would I have to pay? My tyre size is 225/55 R16 93W. Read more
''On the other hand 4WD + Winter Tyres = mutts nutts''
Agreed, had Vred Wintracs on the Hilux, not sure just how bad or steep it would have to be to stop it, went everywhere i asked of it in RWD only without the slightest slip.
I went to start my TDCI-115 the other day after it had been sat still for 20 minutes after previously driving for 30 mins. It started then immediately cut-out and left me with the glow-plug light flashing.
I tried on and off for the next 20 minutes to start the car and it would not start if I left it to wait for the glow-plug to warm-up - however it did start if I went straight from the 'off' position on my ignition to engaging the started motor. However, the car would stall as soon as I took my foot off the accelerator. I was about to give up and get towed home but it decided to start and I got home (with the engine sounding a little clanky).
The next day the same thing happened but it will not start at all now and is sat there with the glow-plug LED flashing constantly as soon as I turn the key 2 clicks. I tried switching the relay for the glow-plug with the one from my fog-lights to see if that worked, but no joy. I also checked the glow-plug fuse and that is fine too.
Any ideas on what it could be please? My guess was either a dead glow plug (or plugs? I'm not sure how many are in these cars?) or I've also heard about about the Camshaft sensor being a problem on these cars?
Cheers,
Richard
P.S. I noticed when checking out the relays in the under-bonnet fuse box that all the relays listed as being to do with glow-plugs weren't there!? There only seemed to be 1 of them, is this correct? Read more
These cars can be absolute pigs when they develop a fault. My suggestion is to get the car to an auction and sold ASAP. Not taking the mick here, I really mean it.
Then buy a car with a petrol engine or if you want a diesel get a VAG model with the PD engine.
Cant offer any suggestions without seeing the car and running diagnostics over it. If you want it fixing then get it out of the Ford dealer and to an independent dielse expert.
Hello,
Please could you advise me of the following. On a corsa c there is a warning light on the dashboard that comes on when you turn it on. It looks like an engine symbol.
I have looked at my manual and it says that Its to do with the exhaust emissions?
I have been having ongoing issues with a loud tapping noise coming from the engine and when I took it into a garage for its MOT i said it may be the tappets. I was advised that the tappetts on this type of vehicle are hydraulic and nothing can be done with them. I was advised that this is normal for this to happen.
Over the past couple of months I have been getting a warning light on my dash the same one as above and I took it into the garage. They said that its to with the engine so they plugged it in to a reader and it was misfiring so they cleaned the spark plugs and aparently it went off.
I have not had the light coming back on since but I recently broke down and on inspection from the recovery guy it looked like the camshaft nearest to the exhaust manifold was at an angle and the bearing was loose, suspecting a snapped camshaft. This happened on the motorway at 70mph which wasn't great.
The car has done over 70,000 miles.
I suspect that the loud ticking rattling noise that I reported was actually the loose bearing holders that hold the camshaft in and the engine emissions light was coming on due to the fact that it was loose and wasn't operating correctly.
I have been advised that I now need to possibly have a new engine fitted.
Has anyone else had these sort of problems with there corsa.
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The car has had a service in may this year and MOT in june with no problems.
When it went into the garage on the MOT I mentioned the tapping noise but nothing could be done with that they said.
Recently the exhaust emission light has been coming on so it has been in for that which I suspect is related to the problem I have now got that was aparently sorted and I was advised to bring it back in if it comes on again, but the only time it has come on since, is when I had this problem.
I just don't understand how a vehicle that has been serviced on a regular basis and well looked after & maintained has been in the garage for problems but has aparently nothing wrong with it and to now be told that it will require a new engine.
The engine isnt the twinport version.
Hi I took my car to renault garage for m.o.t. and service and it failed the m.o.t. because the two front coil springs were broken. I have been quoted £346 for their replacement and told the car would have to be retested. Does this seem a reasonable price for this type of job? Would be very grateful for a swift reply. Cheers, Dippy Read more
Yup, monkey metal springs. Done loads. We charge about £180 for this job.
Not fair to say that this is a standard charge though, different vehciles have different set up so costs vary depending on the amount of work involved.
People are blaming speed bumps for broken springs, but metal quality and finishing of the springs has declined, this is why most are braking. On some cars strut top mount siezes and spring gets twisted which encourages them to break.
Hi. I have a 2005 Mondeo which started running badly last week and the warning light flashing away. I took it to Ford on Thursday for them to look at it. I went back over on Friday and they had not completed their checks but they have told me it has the following faults;
P132A
P132B
P1664
The woman on reception had no further information on the computer. Can any of you please tell me what these mean and a rough figure to fix it.
Thank you. Theresa Twigg Read more
£140 to read fault codes at the Ford dealer is expensive, but not surprising. Often they will justify it by saying £70 to read fault codes and another £70 for inspection of the part. Its a case of charge what you can get away with.
We usually charge £25 to read fault and £25 for interpretation, if cusotmer asks for it and takes car awaty. If customer has us do the repair then the second £25 is wiaved.
My first post on this forum, it seems like a very helpful informative place, so thanks in advance guys.
I bought this 1.4 HDI 206 as my first car a few months ago. When I first got it it was returning about 55mpg (urban) which is exactly what I was expecting after lots of research and searching for this particular model. I am currently unemployed (struggling musician!) so I bought this car for its great economy, low insurance group/tax e.t.c
The fuel economy has dropped considerably since I got it, now returning between 30mpg and 33mpg around town, which goes upto about 50mpg (75mpg when I first got it!) on motorway. I have not done the brim test but I always fill up by exactly 2 gallons when it hits the same point on fuel gauge. I really am very meticulous about this, as I know it's not the most accurate way of measuring fuel but I simply cannot bring myself to spend £50 in one go on fuel, until I start earning money again. I have done this since owning the car, fill up at exactly the same point every time by 2 gallons and reset fuel gauge. I consistently return 30mpg and I do this usually about twice a week.
The rear brakes were fixed recently and didn't make a bit of difference, but at least we can rule out brakes binding. My backbox has also been changed recently and the tyre pressures are fine too. My driving style is also very economical.
The car doesn't smoke much normally but I revved to full throttle a few days ago while stationary and there was a BIG cloud of black smoke the first time and then smaller ones after that but still very black. This left a visible black mark on the wet floor under my exhaust.
It has also developed a bad sounding rattle that comes and goes. I can't hear the rattle very much inside the car, if I have the radio on I won't even notice it. When I have stopped next to friends of mine they pulled faces and asked whats wrong with it, then once I wind down the window I can hear it plainly. It seems not to happen unless the engine has warmed up. I also notice a different rattle between 1.8k revs and 2.5k revs which is audible inside the car and is a different kind of rattle. It smoothes out once 2.5k revs is hit. I'm not sure if its normal for diesels as it's my first car but it certainly doesn't sound normal to me has a more ticky sound to it. The first rattle I mentioned is loudest at idle and seems to get quiter when gears are engaged and this is a most definitely not normal, has a more of clunking rattle sound to it.
So my thoughts from the reading I have done so far are MAF sensor could be faulty, or maybe I have a problem with my turbo (the rattling sound). The power delivery seems fine as far as I know. Its due an oil change which I will be doing over the next couple of days. I have already fitted a new air filter from the service kit I bought and it hasn't made any difference. Something else I read were to do with electrovalves, and the EGR valve? That stuff was all a bit over my head.
As I have said I really am completely broke so any advice on how to diagnose what this problem is without paying a garage or paying out minimal amount would be so greatly appreciated.
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Nope my names not Scotty kilner! but i have been ultrasonically cleaning injectors for over 20 years & removing sticky carbon deposits from inlet & exhaust valves without removing cylinder heads for years. Every now & again a customer comes along who doesn't belive in liquid products ! so for those we have to spend hours of labour doing it all buy hand & buying many new parts & releaving you of plenty of money! lovely jubbley! wish there were more of you!
I don't worry "about which!" each to their own & horses for courses,
I think you may of missunderstood whet Which were reporting about! there is a difference between many fuel addatives & what you expect to achieve from them.
If its an adative to claim it cleans & improves injectors , then yes some do & having carried out rolling road BHP tests I can confirm some do make a big difference
But if its those that claim to gain BHP by increasing cetatne Octane ratings then its a different kettle of fish!
I think you jumped the gun causing confusion to the poor chap with his poorly 206!
A can of jollop may do nothing but supposing he fits £100's worth of parts & it doesn't fix it then puts a can of jollop in the tank for £6.00 & its fine which would you rather of done first ??
Some of the night illumination bulbs have gone on the instrument cluster and heater control panel. Does anyone happen to know the bulb type and wattage. I have looked in the Haynes manual and it doesn't mention these.
They are capless and all in plastic holders but i cannot read what was originally on the bulbs.
I would guess but dont want to cook anything plastic.
Many thanks. Read more
Just a quick update.
All the bulbs used are 286 type (1.2w/12v capless panel bulbs)
They are mounted in plastic holders and the bulbs can be pulled out and changed without the need to buy the complete bulb/holder
There are 5 in the instrument cluster, 4 in the heater control panel and 1 for the cigarette lighter illumination.Took about an hour to change them all. Just make sure the metal legs of the bulb of which there are two point slightly inwards towards the centre of the bulb. I put the dash back and two bulbs did not light because the legs had been set pointing towards the outside of the bulb and did not make contact inside the holder.
Regards,
Greg.
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i spoke to the parts today and they say zafi a's should have both the same size blades and the flat blades are quiet rare on zafi a's zafi b's are a different size left and right, and it dont hurt to have the correct measurements and may help others in future, Regards TB