September 2009
Hi,
I have been reading up on the NCAP tests for various cars that I have been thinking of buying (including the BMW 3 series and the Ford Mondeo).
Both of these score well for child safety (39 - 4 stars)
BMW - www.euroncap.com/tests/bmw_3_series_2005/225.aspx
Mondeo - www.euroncap.com/tests/ford_mondeo_2007/299.aspx
However, most NCAP descriptions give details of what exactly happened to the child dummies, for example with the BMW it says that "Both were well protected throughout."
The Mondeo does not give such a description, it only talks about the warning labels and the ISOFIX anchorages.
From my reading of NCAP tests so far, it seems that some get knocked down on labelling, whether the airbags can be disabled etc, and some get knocked down on the actual effects of impact.
Therefore, with only a star rating it is not possible to be sure that the "impact" safety is the same for two cars with the same rating.
Just wondered if anybody knew whether there was a way to get further details of the tests? I can't see any way to get more details on the website.
Thanks in advance for any help. Read more
sultana's post about car insurance reminds me..............
Last month I used various comparison sites before renewing my insurance.
Had a really good quote which included free AA membership.
Then I remembered that when I first bought the car, entering the reg. number gave the wrong engine and output. So I clicked on 'edit car details' and sure enough, my 940 2.3SE Turbo was still listed as the high-pressure turbo, not the LTP - low-pressure turbo.
A quick edit and bingo - saved another fiver.
So now paying 135 quid a year for comp. with 2 named drivers. Pretty good, methinks.
The point is, if you get a quote by entering your registration number, make sure they have the right details. Read more
Gentlemen
The engine on this is pretty solid and I had the cylinder head fixed by a trustworthy garage about 2 years ago. It has been losing coolant very slowly though, and I keep it topped up. Now it loses coolant more rapidly BUT the temp gauge has started going about four fifths to the top, then back to normal for about 10 minutes, then repeating. I guess it might be a hole in the system, or could the head have gone again? The oil is clean and the exhaust isn't white.
While it was losing coolant slowly the garage did a pressure test and couldn't find anything wrong there.
Just wondering why it's going up and down like that.
THANKS CHAPS. Read more
You've not mentioned how many miles the car has done - but if when the head gasket was changed 2 years ago it wasn't skimmed, then its worth considering having fixed. If the car's in good condition then why not get it fixed. With modified gaskets etc its worth a try. Alternatively you could pour some Barr's leak into the top hose, run it for half an hour then flog it at an auction house.
Guys,
Just bought a s/hand 1.8 Laguna II and I've no idea when the cambelt was last changed so feel I really should get it replaced now. I will get my local indie to do but I've no idea how long it should take. Anybody know what is a reasonable time?
While the belt is off I will also get the waterpump replaced as that's only about £30 and it makes sense to get that done at the same time.
Thanks Read more
>>Garage has quoted £150 plus VAT for labour only, is this reasonable?
I would have thought so, but get a couple of other quotes and compare prices.
During slow gear change especially between the 2nd and 3rd gear in the region of 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm I hear a chucking sound coming from the gear box. This is not always constant, but more frequent in an up hill. The car only has 3,100 km and is rather annoying, should I be concerned once this is an automatic gearbox, should this be reported to the local Honda Distributor as the car is still under warranty, does anyone else have a similar problem and was it solved ? Read more
Dear All, the noise I heard coming from the gear box was after all coming from the engine, basically the Honda distributor concluded that that engine was "pinking". The resolution to this defect was via the replacement of some Air Flow sensor and the engine ESU software update. Till now all seems to be running smooth. Same fault was reported on some Aussie websites in respect to the 2.4 litre engine version
I've never pulled up on the reigns of my car. In fact I can't imagine anyone ever doing this in motoring history, so why is it that we still use the term, and it was never replaced with something a little more 'motoring'? Likewise pull over.
Are there any other motoring terms like this, which bear absolutely no resemblance to modern motoring but have a historical context somewhere? The only other thing I can think of is dashboard - mine isn't there to stop muck and dust being kicked up by the wheels and the horses hooves, I have a bulkhead for that! Read more
The two examples which you quote "firewall" and "rocker panel" ................. garage
mechanics in this country refer to them as "bulkhead" and "sill" respectively.
I was saying what car manufacturers call them (and have done since the early 1960s to my certain knowledge) and what is shown on their drawings, so they must be the correct words. Garage mechanics in this country can't necessarily be relied on to use the correct words.
I have just had a lift in one these as my friends dads Mazda 6 is being repaired due to accident damage.
I have always thought of the Mazda 6 as a bit of a boring car in the sense that it is reliable, well built, smooth and comfortable, e.g it does nothing wrong but also has a design which would not excite people. It is the kind of car I would love to have as a company car (which his is).
However this driver now has a hire Sebring and its awful. The second I got in the car I notice all this plastic wood all over the place, fake plastic rings round the gear lever, fake plastic door handles, leather seats which feel like plastic and door cars made of cheap grade plastic I have list seen on my dads old Lada Riva 1200L from 1987.
Although I have not driven it, the car kept stalling and then would take around 30 seconds to start again (it was a diesel and the glow plugs didn't seem to work well).
Everytime we went over the a bump at even 20mph it seems to travel accross the entire chassis like it would in a Fiesta MK3.
He is not a kean driver but does a lot of milleage and I asked him what it was lke to drive expecting him to say it ok his answer was "it leaves a lot to be desiered". The brakes also made a racked as if the pads were worn even though it had done less than 15k and was on a 58 reg though that might be due to the fact it was a hire car.
My impressions are: If you can get these as cheap as HJ adverts suggest e.g less than £10k they are a massively large car for Fiesta money which will made a lot of people very happy but for my money I would rather have a year old low milleage Mondeo or Passat.
Sadly I have not driven it, and if I did I might be pleasently surprised but as a passanger it felt like it had been made out of recyceled Lada plastics.
As a passanger I was not impressed at all I just feel so sorry for the driver.
At least the Cruiser has an interesting design.
Read more
The latest Mazda 6 has some rather nasty looking plastic in it aswell, so its not exclusive to cheaper cars.
Hi,
I am currently researching Ford used cars and the impact of authorised dealers, and when I was doing so I came across these two cars:
used.car.dagenhammotors.co.uk/control.cfm?MREQ=app...F
used.car.dagenhammotors.co.uk/control.cfm?MREQ=app...F
As you can see they are identical models with the only differences being colour, mileage and the equipment listed. However, the car with less mileage and more equipment listed, is £1,000 less than the other car.
Assuming this isn't a mistake, how could this be the case? (I am going to call the dealer and ask, but also wondered what other impartial people might think) The cheaper car only has 10 miles on the clock, so I guess it can't be wear and tear and I can't see any equipment that the more expensive car has that the cheaper car doesn't.
I want to know if there is something that I could be missing here, and something that I should take into accont when buying a used car from a Ford dealership (or any other dealership for that matter).
Thanks in advance for any help. Read more
The dearer car is listed as having 'keyless entry doorlocks', which I think includes the push button starter which is quite a dear option.
So the dearer car is a much more desirable colour, but also looks to be slightly better spec.
Hi,
I am planning on buying a Ford Focus and had originally planned to buy one that was part of their Ford Direct scheme.
However, I have been offered a Focus that seems to be a fairly good price by a dealership that I understand is an authorised dealership (they do sell Ford Direct cars), but the car is not part of the Ford Direct scheme.
The car is an 09 reg, about 6 months old, with about 7,000 miles on the clock and I understand that it has been a demo car. The salesman has told me that the car will still have a 2.5 year warranty (the original 3 year warranty minus the first 6 months), Ford Direct cars seem to have 2 years (although presumably this car would have 2.5 years even if it was a Ford Direct).
I am trying to research the difference between a Ford Direct car and just a car that comes from an authorised Ford dealer. I know that they have been reconditioned by Ford, have the 2 year warranty, and 1 year roadside assistance, but I can't figure out if Ford have an "approved used car" scheme apart from the Ford Direct scheme (for cars sold via authorised dealers), and the possible impact on:
* Condition
* Warranty
* Value
* Re-sale value
* Any other risks
for a non-Ford Direct car (other manufacturers do seem to have approved used car schemes, with definite criteria for condition).
I am going to keep investigating, and am going to ask the dealer some more questions, but I would appreciate any other impartial advice.
Thanks in advance for any help. Read more
...Just wondered if anybody had any thoughts on what would be considered a good deal price wise...
Ah, I wondered when the vexatious question of money would appear.
You don't say exactly what you're buying, but you can be sure the Ford dealer will have gone in fairly hard, particularly as you have been in the premises in person.
That is, they will not have asked you for £15,000 for a car they are prepared to sell for £12,000.
If you are serious about one of the cars and have no p/ex, you could try offering £750 under the asking price, but be prepared to do a deal at £400 - £600.
Filling up the car the other day I noticed a sign (which I think you see less frequently these days) asking people not to use mobile phones on the forecourt.
As I walked over to the office to pay I blipped the remote control to lock the car.
I don't know if you can set petrol vapour alight with a mobile phone signal, but if that signal is unsafe, how come all the little radio signals opening and closing doors are ok?
Read more
BB, I salute you as a kindred spirit, when I grumble about these very things my wife/daughter/son all say I am a miserable grumpy old pink fluffy dice and should be more laid back, and what's my big hurry anyway?
Try contacting them directly. I expect they'll be quite good at dealing with this type of query.