May 2009

Robin the Technician

Hi Guys,
My 406 estate passenger front window has stopped working. Neither of the switches (drivers and passengers) makes a difference. I thought it might be just stuck in the channel possibly due to lack of use but to no avail. All the others work fine. Is there a common fault I could look for prior to taking door pad etc off. Is it fused separately?

As always any advice and guidance is greatly appreciated. Read more

karljohns80

same problem here, 1999 v reg 406 2.0l hdi, front passenger window inop, fuse box layout not same as in manual, any suggestions where the passenger window fuse is???

cheers,

Karl

espace nightmare

Hi wondered if anyone had experienced the same problem as with my 2.2 diesel espace.

Turns over freely but does not attempt to fire! I've checked the glow plugs both power to and function cleaned egr (on off chance) squirt of easy start and starts and runs perfectly will not retart once stopped! Their is compustion leakage from no1 injector but this does not want to budge. I have been warned that these can turn in to a major job so don't want to persue if their is another fault, i'm booked in to see if their are any faults stored but any ideas would be appreciated as the costs with this vehicle keep mounting. Read more

vmturbo

Just remembered a similar fault on a Citroen Picasso. The vehicle had either run out or had almost run out of fuel. More fuel was fetched using a container that had once held truck-cleaner (detergent) and this was a very bad mistake. It seemed that the traces of detergent left in the container reduced the lubricity of the fuel which is extremely marginal in any case, and the high pressure pump was ruined.

Fortunately a vehicle dismantler had a similar engine which had blown-up (big ends gone and a rod through the block) They don't normally sell the pumps separately but as the engine was scrap, this time they made an exception. £150 and the car was a runner again! With Common Rail, Hdi and all that stuff the fuel is really critical and some drivers add a trace of two-stroke oil which is legal to burn as fuel, in order to help the pump. If one does do this it is advisable to use blue two stroke oil and not the red to avoid any misunderstandings! The good news about Common Rail is that pump replacement is straightforward as the timing is done by the computer....

Rog C

Since I have had the CRV, I have noticed that when I am not in an excellent radio signal area, and have the heated rear window on, I loose signal. As soon as I get into a good signal area, it doesnt seem to make any difference. I have taken it back to the Dealer, who found the aerial base loose and tightened it up, but unfortunately this has made no difference. The problem is the dealer is in a good signal area, their comment was if we cant see the problem we cant fix it mmm. I was wondering if there is a signal booster in the aerial base, and when switching on the heated rear window it looses power, I would welcome any thoughts.
On a second note the gearchange 1 to 2nd is still appauling after 10K miles. Again the dealership hasnt tried to fix it, saying there all the same and blaming the linkage, but it feels more like a syncro fault to me. I have read on other forums that this is a common problem, and so far there does not seem to be a fix, again if anyone out there knows whats worked please tell.

Regards

Roger Read more

Brentus

I noticed my signal drifted on road to Cornwall Rog but think that is normal when travelling such distances. Never used heated rear window on this journey. Your dead right about the 1st n 2nd gearing though, been mentioned here a bit if you note.

Spospe

There is currently a thread here in the Back Room, asking for advice from someone who has accumulated 12 points and is anxious to avoid a ban.

On the basis that we are all responsible citizens a) what do Backroomers think should be the punishment for speeding and b) what should the current speed limits be anyway?

It is noteworthy that in all the European countries that I have driven through, the urban speed limit has mostly been 30 mph, or its kph equivalent, so there does seem a consensus view on that one.

My own views, for what they are worth would be to avoid giving the impression that speeding fines are a tax on speed and use more constructive methods, such as driving awareness courses, or make the guilty driver take an extended test and only resort to bans when the message is obviously being ignored.

As for speed limits, leave them as they are except for motorways, which should be 80 mph day and night except on unlit sections at night or in poor visibility (similar to in France).

Over to all you BR's .............
Read more

NARU

I think that a lot of tailgating starts with people keeping the same distance behind the car ahead as they do in the city. Remember the 2-second rule on the motorway and you'll be off to a good start!

gvmllr

hi all,can someone help. ive got a rover 25 and its got a ticking noise,since i got a oil change there has been a constant ticking noise coming from the engine. what ive noticed is that the ticking noise is mainly noticable when in low gears,as i get to the high gears it basically fades. the car runs perfect with no loss of power and is used daily. could it have a tappet stuck? if someone knows what it is,then would it damage the car if i do a long journey. thanks for looking and all help appreciated. Read more

soupdragon

Hi, I recently had a minor impact to the front drivers side wing/door from someone reversing off their drive, didn't see me parked. It was very slow speed crunch and made a few dents and scrapes. Car went to crash repair garage. A few days after I got it back I noticed a rattle coming from front drivers side wheel. Because it started following the repair I took it back to same garage. They could not find fault in quick inspection so sent car to Ford for diagnosis. Ford could not take it in for 6 days so I continued driving. When they got it Ford reported back that the drivers side front shock absorber was "smashed". Not just worn or damaged, but completly broken. Car is under 3 years old, I have not hit any bumps at excessive speed. I don't know anything about shock absorbers or what might break them, does anyone have any idea what sort of things might have caused this damage? Could it (as the garage are suggesting) have been caused by original impact? The car that hit me was a big BMW 4X4, but speed was very slow. Also I am concerned that having driven the car for a total of 10 days before diagnosis further damage may have been caused because shock abosrber was broken. Any advice welcome, worried! Read more

soupdragon

Thanks both of you, your comments are reassuring. I will make sure suspension gets thoroughly checked over when it is repaired. At the moment they are waiting for go-ahead from the insurance company, as this repair should go on the original claim if it was caused by the same impact.

ffolliott

Hi - can anyone help with a good online UK Ford spares supplier. I am having trouble finding a thermal temperature transmitter (that sends to the dashboard temperature gauge) for a 1990 Ford Escort Bonus 1.3 petrol. 1990 seems to have been a changover year so not easy to compare what is fitted to what is listed. Mine has a single post fitting but 1990 also seems to have a spade type fitting. Need to get the right one so it operates at the correct temperature range.

Many thanks Read more

Peter.N.

I would think, knowing Ford that the sender would be the same apart from the connector, I have just fitted an Escort diesel engine into a P100 pick up. the senders are as yours, one post and one flat blade, the latter works perfectly with the P100 gauge.

hutchball

Hi, after driving for a mile or so and usually when exceeding 40mph, the car likes to stall when coming to a stop.

A good rev usually cures this but its becoming dangerous!!

Could someone please help. Read more

hutchball

Yes! The car 'jumps' when its about to happen so I get a warning before a stall. Like small kangaroo jumps. So this is a possibility....

What do I do now...!

nev666

Hi,
I have a problem in so much as my 306 hdi just will not start. Driving along one day it cut out and has not run since.
It is not a fueling problem on the pumping side, it is on the electrical side. There is no feed going to the injectors to open them, Ecu been checked and is fine so it tends to look more like maybe a broken wire or relay something like that.
Anybody got any ideas, will try anything as electrics just baffle me.
cheers Read more

Pazzer9

Hi I have the same problem, did you manage to get to the bottom of it in the end? Regards Justin.

Hear is my original note, to inform problem.

My car went from being a good starter to a no starter in 2 days just got gradually worse.

We have two bar of pressure from the low pressure pump. But no high pressure being generated. So we changed the pump. Same problem.

It has always started with the slightest of whiff's of easy start, or bump start with no problem.

It will drive for about 4 or 5 mile, then engine cuts out!! Turn key off while rolling, resets ecu, select 2nd gear, slow car down to bump, and starts no problem, on again for another 4-5 mile again. Until it does the same again.

It will idle stood forever with no problem, won't miss a beat. You turn it off, and try restarting, it just doesn't what to know!

Why does it drive for 4-5 mile when we know it has no high pressure diesel supply? and why does it bump and start with easy start??

Hope may be you can point us in the right direction, been trying to sort this issue out for 3 weeks now! Its becoming a headache!

Any help would be really appreciated!

m7ohn

I've just purchased a vehicle on a very popular auction site. Knowing how dodgey this could be i paid for a Vehicle Status report and HPI check. The check did not find any problems and i went ahead with the transaction.
When i got home i noticed on the back of the MOT certificate you could check the vehicles MOT history on line with Dept of Transport.
I did this and discovered a very alarming problem.
The most recent MOT matched the current certificate mileage of 69000 miles, however the MOT the year previous stated 103000 miles. The vehicle came with no service history and only this MOT certificate. The vehicle is a 2005 model so it's only ever had 2 MOT's in it's life.
Should the HPI check have found this discrepency and also why did'nt the current MOT station detect this when he was entering the info into the database?
The HPI check came with a guarantee against loss of money by fraudulent activity, one check actually said no mileage discrepency found.
Many thanks, Jane
Read more

bell boy

the hpi can only bring up what they are told by owners
if you sell your car there is a box on the v5 to enter the mileage when it left you
if everyone filled this in at pos then mileage correction could be nipped in the bud
basically in my opinion you have been duped but its not to say the seller is the duper
i would ring trading standards in the morning and ask their advise as to whether they could do a paper chase to all previous keepers for you with a view to a prosecution for mileage fraud
you would have to take the guilty person to court for the amount you have been diddled