May 2009
Sat navs about to go on the blink apparently.
Marvellous news
www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2009/may/19/gps-clos...n
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Hi All
You may or may not know that ive just purchased a nearly new Vectra, but i have already got a few questions (Mods: i didnt know what was more relevent. Discussion or Technical, but please feel free to move it accordingly)
The car (1.8 16V) has recently been serviced, however on start up the oil light takes a good 3-4 seconds to go out, when its out though it stays out.
I Will check levels etc, however I just wondered if this was normal or not. as my 1.6 8V went out more or less straight away.
I think the parcel shelf is rattling which is slightly annoying and it didnt do this on test drive becasue of the "Tester Licence Plate" on the back. would it be just a case of it not seating properly or do they normally do this as well
Many Thanks Read more
Ah yes Thanks DD Ill have a look on Vectra-c.com
:-)
What are the views on fitting wheel spacers ----- say 10/12mm max so fairly modest. I'm thinking of fitting some to my rear wheels in order to fill out the arches. There is sufficient clearance and this is alot cheaper than buying new wheels.
I'm a bit concerned that doing so will increase the load on the bearings and also have an adverse effect on handling/braking etc.
Any views/advice appreciated. Read more
Thanks for the replies-------
Paul -- yes I am aware of the need for longer bolts and the spacers I've looked at seem to have these included.
After further thought I think I'll forget the spacers - as you say BMW do know what they're doing when it comes to handling/balance etc and my 17" 225's do look pretty good even if the rear arches could take a wider offset.
I've seen a set of genuine BMW MV1's on ebay --- 18" staggered set up which would look the business and cause no issues with load/balance etc. Will have to save up a bit thou' if I decide to go this way.
i will start
just had the man with the van in my yard who sells all things car related,a bag of washer £9
well ive just been to screwfix and they are £4,so im not paying for his new jag anymore.
cheapest maf from my autofactor £65,just had one delivered of the internet £28
wheel trims local shop £18,im off to maccess in the morning £8
local car wash cheapest £1.50,at work 5 pence of cleaner,2 pence of water,bit of elbow grease total 7 new p
splined 1/4 drive set from my factor £19.99,same thing from aldi £5
any more ?on a cold very wet tuesday nearly lunch time
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Hi there i wonder if you can help me
I have been hearing a increasing noise in the rear side under braking or going over a big bump sounds like a fast drumming rumbling noise?
also i have had the rear brakes done 3500 miles ago 5months ago new shoes/brake cylinders and new hand brake cables and i also had the drums cleaned up.
Cheers James Read more
Could be the wheel bearing but I would have expected that to be noisy all the time but louder when turning in one direction.
My new Clio only gives a new Renault spec for oil performance. Previous cars used to specify A3 B4 10W40 or 5W40 but Renault only uses their own specs now. I plan taking the car around Europe for a few months and would like to take some oil with me in case I need to top up. Do I have to use Elf as this is the only oil I can find with the Renault specs on the bottle - it is almost impossible to find in my part of northern England ? By the way they still specify 5W40 as the viscosity. Will main dealers still bung in the cheapest A3 B4 10W40 they can bulk buy? Read more
Hi guys,
Just a quick question for those who may have a clue, I'm thinking of selling my MK2 Mondeo Ghia X V6 LPG. It's a 2000 model and in what I can honestly say is immaculate condition for it's age, with the rare factory fitted ST24 kit. The LPG kit is still under warranty for a year.
Whilst I can easily value it based on similar vehicles, I simply can't find one like mine to try and compare the value with!
So, what would those who work in the trade reckon that it's worth? Financially I know what I could do with, but I suspect that as is always the case, my figure is dis-jointed from reality. I'm aware that it's only a 9 year old Mondeo but in all honesty, I don't think there will be many better ones in daily use outside of a museum.
I was thinking of just banging an ad on Ebay but really don't fancy taking the chance of it selling for peanuts as I couldn't afford to replace it with a new car unless I get a set amount!
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If you wait till fuel goes back over a £1 per litre your Mondeo will go up in value because of the LPG.
I have just listened to a programme on BBC Radio 4 presented by Quentin Letts (who he?).
It was asking in a tongue-in-cheek style 'What is F1 for', quite interesting and amusing and it is repeated tonight, Tuesday, at 9.30pm - I think.
Remind me someone - what is Formula One for? Read more
I can understand why people like F1. But.
It sounds dreadfully flippant, but the day Ayrton Senna died Formula one died too. It might just be me but I didn't watch F1 because it was SAFE for the drivers. Why on earth should it be "safe" anyway. Given its status, I'd have thought a little more excitement would have been forthcoming long before now. There is such a thing as danger money. Now it's so sterile I'm surprised anyone can sit through an entire race on TV.
Hi Guys,
Had a new clutch in my Mondeo at 90k, now on 95k and starting to get some loud vibrations between 30 - 60 Mph. The noise changes with speed and does not dissapear when taken out of gear, or when the clutch pedal is depressed.
It does seem to get louder if you use the gears when slowing down.
The virbration is causing a rattle in the back of the speedo, which I think is connected to the fly wheel?
This has led me to think that it could be a damaged fly wheel . . . .
Any ideas would be appreciated, and maybe a rough cost? (guessing it will be expensive!)
Cheers
Rich Read more
I would agree. If its coming from the engine you would be able to reproduce it stationary by reving the engine.
I was wondering if smaller (below 1.9 Litres) turbo diesel engines need to be driven harder to achieve better fuel economy.
I was chatting to a bloke down the pub the other night and he thinks that changing up each gear at 2.500 rpm is no good as he thinks at least 3.000 rpm to get the right revs for the next gear.
I was always led to believe that driving a diesel on torque and not revs was the best.
I.E change up at 2.500 rpm so that the next gear is at 2k rpm.
so what's best ? Read more
Small diesel = big diesel
The bigger 1.9 will have more (pre turbo boost) torque available at very low (sub 1,500) revs due to its cylinder capacity.
The smaller 1.3 diesel will have less as its cylinder capacity is smaller. Once turbo boost comes in though its a different story.
Change gear so you don`t fall off the peak torque - there`s nothing to be gained by revving a turbo diesel further - other than now and then to keep the engine free of soot.
Depends which goggle link you chose to read.
www.chm.bris.ac.uk/webprojects2002/mjames/chemistr...l
www.independent.co.uk/news/science/50-years-50-gia...8