April 2009
Hi, I have a 2005 KA 1.3 which is missing the rear sensor rings off the inside of the drum. I called ford and ordered two replacement rings but the ones that arrived appear to be too big. They are smooth and appear to be magnetic. I have checked on an older abs equipped fiesta with the same size drums and that has a bumpy (corrugated) sensor fitted which is the same size as I appear to need. Have ford given me the wrong part or is something amiss. At present the abs light is on due to no signal from the rear sensors. Will the old style ring fit my car or does the abs work differently on the later cars. There are 2 different electrical sensors listed for pre and post 2004. Any help gratefully received.
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A rapid pootle back down the A12 again in my friend's very nice Octavia, now coming up to 50,000 miles and still feeling hewn from the solid. Most of its life is spent pootling in South London. I don't know how much fuel it uses but that low-pressure, modest-output petrol turbo while not quite a gem is a very nice unit indeed. Perhaps it would feel more of a gem when one got used to the location of its high torque band which seems quite narrow for a turbo engine.
It was a relief being allowed to drive because the owner, a very good and close friend of 50 years' standing, suffers from a restless right foot and is absent-minded, so often in the wrong gear. He's perfectly safe and competent but after a while I find my teeth being set on edge by slightly jerky progress that could be quite a bit quicker and just as economical. I caught him holding the car on the clutch at an uphill junction too and simply couldn't keep stum about it. He didn't mind of course.
The rumble of all the extra transmission machinery under the floor is still fairly subdued (i.e. not noticeable to the vast majority of people). A non-4X4 version would be a bit quieter and a bit quicker except of course in the wet. The temperature gauge still only works sporadically, loose sender connection probably. The car has given virtually no trouble in two years.
If you are looking for that sort of car and find a good one of these, it comes very highly recommended by me. Read more
I've fond memories of the 1.8T engine in one of its first incarnations, when fitted to the A3 mk1 1.8T - hope it doesn't appear too arch italicising my own pun btw!
I loved it - plenty of oomphh (for 1998 anyway..) , with economy around the 30-40mpg mark - dependent upon journey type. It was the torquiest thing of its size - even amongst many contemporary TDI diesels - with very pleasing 5th gear acceleration for the M-way. What shines most brightly really though, was its low weight - diesel pull, with 4 cylinder petrol-engine lightness. It also seemed that its relative understressed-ness lent it quite a smooth demeanour with no (perceptible to me,anyway) turbo lag. I could quite happily buy similar again
Hi,
I have a question about the parking brake on the CRV III that hopefully some of you can help with?
The manual says you engage the parking brake by pulling it back fully. However, long before it is in the fully back position the red brake indicator on the dash comes on but the car is not braked - if on a slope it will roll downwards.
On other cars I have had as soon as the red brake indicator comes on on the dash I have been able to take my foot off the brake pedal and the car is secure on the slope. I then have had the option of pulling harder on the hand-brake if I so wished.
Anyhow, is this common in the CRV or do I have a loose parking break? I thought that parking brakes got loose over time and hence needed to be pulled further and further 'up' to obtain a secure brake, often requiring the brake to be tightened by a mechanic?
Thanks,
T. Read more
I am definately hearing what you all say is clatter more so in first than second but still hear it in second. You all call it clatter , i was going to post it as don't laugh tappitts rattle. I dont know if my Diesal CRV even has tappitts. Oh and by the way i am hearing this at very low revs pulling away i mean low revs. can someone give me some reassurance its ok and normal. I havent done 600 miles yet. Maybe i should av posted this on CRV thread not parking brake thread. Help.
My focus has started flashing the oil warning light. No problem i thought, oil level must be low. Checked the oil level and its fine, but added in a drop more anyway.
Its still continuing to flash the oil light - its more of a flicker, flickering on and off.
Now it's not leaking oil, as I have checked the road where its parked and I cant see anything. I only just had a full oil service 2k miles ago, and it's never done it before. I have done about 6k in it before the oil service and never once had the light on.
Any idea's? Im thinking oil pump or sensor fault? Anyone came across this before?
Cheers Read more
probably the wire to the oil pressure switch earthing out due to chafing - possibly disturbed when you had the oil change.
(Its a pressure activated switch, not a sensor, and simply provides an earth path to light the dash lamp.)
Hi all
I am having problems every time i want to put the roof down. It gets stuck on half way and doesn't want to go down and then somehow, after numerous attempts to push, pull and etc, it goes down.
But i still do not know the techinque.
Is it how it should be or something wrong with the roof? Read more
cheers, lads
Approaching a junction, my 1999 Boxer sputtered and died. Tried restarting and engine turned over fast a couple of times and then nothing at all, completely dead.
Towed home, recharged battery, and still no response from starter. Battery is fine, checked main earth cable from gearbox to wing, that's fine too. I have sidelights, but no headlights, radio works fine, etc.
My first instinct was the earth cable, a common problem on these vans, but its okay. Is there another earth cable worth finding and checking. Also, whereabouts is the starter located, I cannot find it from above, do I need to take off the under tray?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Mike Read more
try connecting a jump lead from the positive terminal to the positive on the starter and see if it turns over then, this should help you decide if it's a faulty starter unit or a wiring/switch issue
chris
Hi all.
Could anyone out there tell me which is the correct Haynes repair manual for my 02 reg Citroen Xsara 2.0 HDi estate 110bhp?
I can see manuals for all other ages and models but not this one.
Thanks for your help. Read more
I?ve got the same model as you and have yet to buy a Haynes manual because of the lack of a specific version for this car.
There was a post by someone a while back that stated that he found that the manual for the earlier Xsara covered most of what is practical to d.i.y on these. I would guess that the Picasso manual is required, if you want to know more about the engine.
I did buy a copy of the Citroen service CD off of Ebay. These are clearly a ripped off copy of a Citroen service disc that the dealers use. This has Its uses, but does not contain the sort of step by step ?how to? information of a Haynes manual. I?ve found it more useful as a method if identifying the location of parts and part numbers. Beware, these discs require computing knowledge to load and mine has stopped working a year later?I suspect it times out. The sellers on Ebay don?t tell you this.
I was loaned a Civic diesel today (very nice) but I could not work out why when you reached 30 mph a ping was sounded and an orange light flashed on the central display saying 30 mph for a few seconds and then went out. The same happened at 60 mph. Nothing in between.
Why, what's the point?
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I have got one. Just press and hold one of the 2 buttons on steering wheel. The sub menu will show up. Then just find notifications.
can anyone help me my battery died on my rover 214si took it to the garage but now my central locking isn't working any suggestions on how to make it work ??? Read more
You may have to perform the following sequence if your vehicle's battery has gone flat or it is disconnected.
If your key fob has just stopped working try this:
1. Unlock your vehicle with the key in the drivers door lock, do not open the door.
2. Press the right hand button lock button (the button with the padlock symbol or the dimpled button) on the key fob 4 to 8 times.
If the above fails try this:
1. Open the key fob
2. Remove the battery
3. Press any button 10 ten times, and the same with the other button
4. Refit the battery or a new battery
5. Unlock the vehicle with the key in the drivers door lock, do not open the door
6. Press the right hand button lock button (the button with the padlock symbol or the dimpled button) on the key fob 4 to 8 times
See Remote Key Ltd:
tinyurl.com/dg2tlw
Just seen a 56 REG Mazda 6 TS2 (90k ) going for £4,700 is there anything I need to worry about especially with the mileage that high? Read more
By the time I got there it had been sold.
did test drive the Honda Accord Exec 2.0 but hated the plastic interior, its so low rent.
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You should always check the build date(last two letters before the five numbers in the VIN);registration dates may be something else.