April 2009
Please... PLEASE when considering buying a new car, think 'British',
surely we should be supporting British workers, so many good/reliable
cars are built here by: Toyota, Honda, Vauxhall, Ford (vans?), Aston
Martin, Landrovers, Bentleys, Rolls Royces, Lotus etc etc. It is soul
destroying being unemployed, it is more by luck than judgement that
most of us still have a job. We could transform the economic outlook
for ourselves and our kids if we all tried to help (and not just with
cars). Read more
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Read more
You may recall that in volume 287 I raised a question regarding containers / boxes. You suggested that I should try Morrisons. Today was the first opportunity that I have had to do that and sure enough they had a really good selection to choose from and at remarkably reasonable prices.
So...many thanks!
Hello all, new to all this but i need some advice big time!
Apologize if it is long winded but i have to explain the situation thoroughly - hope i have posted it in the correct section.
My wife purchased a Picanto in February after her previous one was stolen (PVC double glazing for you)
She bought a 2000 mile 2005 example from a local Skoda dealer and like a fool i did not go with her.
As part of the deal a 12 month warranty was offered and the car would be serviced for her also.
The car is very pretty but i was troubled by the lack of a service history book and no alarm/key plippers.
The dealer was the first owner of the vehicle incidentally and fobbed her off with "it has no alarm plipper and you lock/unlock with the key" (funny the previous one didn't!)
She began complaining about erratic idling of the engine a day or two after purchase and also that she kept stalling the car when she reversed - i put it down to imagination but blow me she was right.
I let a friend of mine who is a mechanic look at the car and he concluded just from a quick examination that its antifreeze was very rusty - which he showed me, you could see the rust staining on the radiator cap, also that the engine was not running smoothly and seemed to be down on one cylinder resulting in the bad idle.
Also he thought the engine was very grubby for such low mileage especially the cooling system.
His advice was to take it back under warranty and get them to sort it out, which she did last week.
Garage in question said they would service it under warranty (funny they were supposed to have done this on purchase) and flush the cooling system so the car was duly left with them.
The running problem persisted after collection, the oil light started flickering and sometimes the engine struggled to start when hot so this time i asked my friend to check it out thoroughly and give me a "health report"
Bad News is an understatement!
1. First off the filthy rusty stuff is still in the radiator.
2. Flickering of the oil light was because the oil level was so low it did not register on the dipstick - took over a liter to get it back to correct level - he reckons it was beginning to seize up.
3. Oil filter had not been changed - same grubby dirty thing is still fitted.
4. The oil has not been changed.
5. The sump plug was loose!!! that's how he noticed the oil was old as it was all over the bottom of the sump.
6. Spark plugs are worn, look like they have done 12000 miles not 2000.
7. Only service part that was new was the air filter and even that was a few months old.
Now here comes the best bit - compression at best is 175psi (should be between 200 to 250 according to Autodata) and the worst cylinder is 135 psi.
It puffs like a steam engine with the with the oil cap removed, which he reckons is excessive back pressure from the damaged cylinders/piston rings.
Best of all the engine now smokes from the exhaust with the engine hot after a run when you rev it - further proof the cylinders/rings are damaged he claims because it now burns oil.
I took the list of faults to my friendly dealer - manager went red in the face and got very, very angry " who is this mechanic?" he demanded to know and tried to tell me the antifreeze is supposed to be rusty in colour.
Have to admit he was so nasty it scared me .... now its booked in for this Wednesday and he will personally check it out.
Now what do i do? reading the FAQ's about duff cars i have to give them three chances to sort it or else - i am afraid a fight is going to break out!
Any advice short of taking a "minder" with me?
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Coming to this rather late in the day but, if the car is 4 years old it will have had at least one MOT? Who did it and what was the recorded mileage on the date of the test? If the supplying garage/first owner did the test this may not be a foolproof indication of the true mileage.
I love the look of the Mazda 6 sport but was put off by the 2.5 litre engine.Since the "6" came out they have launched a special edition called the 'Tamura'.Its based on the ts model but with full body kit and tinted windows.This model suits me perfectly as its got a 2 litre engine instead.The only thing that worries me is the 18" wheels.HJ has said in his review that you should avoid the 18" and stick with the 16" or 17" for the better ride.
I generally like a softer ride so the 18" wheels could be a problem.I have asked 2 dealers if they would swap the 18" for something smaller but they said they would but i'd have to buy the other wheels!.
So my question is for anyone who drives a Mazda 6 with 18" wheels.Do they ruin the ride quality or am i being worried for nothing.
I haven't test driven the Tamura yet but intend to do so shortly.
They best dealer price is £15,695.Has anyone paid less than this at a dealer?(not internet price)
Thanks Read more
Thats my email address so please try again.
Cheers
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 183 *****
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
Usual rules apply,
No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 182. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
A list of previous volumes can be found by clicking Here
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
Read more
Don't forget D-Link modem routers.
I went to collect my new Octavia vRS estate today....hang on, why hasn't it got cruise control as the brochure says it has? Salesman says cheerfully 'it can be retrofitted'. But that isn't quite the point.
Open bonnet. That looks just like the TDI PD engine in the Golf. Turns out that it is. This is an 08 model: the 09 has the common-rail engine which ib was expecting.
Obviously I won't name and shame the dealer - and to their credit they have not only found an 09 model in my chosen blue somewhere in the UK but lent me a vRS estate demonstrator for the duration.
This may not affect only Skoda - but if anyone on here is thinking of buying new, there is a lot of 08 stock still kicking around. Either go for this and get a good deal, or if you want the latest version make sure that's what you're getting.
It's a particular problem with the Octavia vRS as the cosmetic facelift applied to lesser Octavias hasn't been given to the vRS yet. Read more
What are you known as on Brisky Merlin?
After a 60 mile run Iparked up for approx 30 mins. When I started the car to drive off the PS light remained on and the power steering did not work. I switched off and tried again 2 or 3 times with no result. I rang the R.A.C. and while waiting for recovery I had to move the car forward a couple of feet to get in the boot. The PS light went out on start up and the power steering worked normally!!! Needless to say I am having the system checked out today, but my phone conversations with my Toyota Dealer indicate that they do not know what the problem may be. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Read more
its under warrenty
dont worry be happy
gurango
possibly anything from bad battery connections to a faulty alternator to the steering torque senser going off centre
I was wondering what average mpg people are getting on their 1.5l Diesel Rio's
No matter how I drive the car I only seem to get between 46mpg and 48 mpg (but I have to drive like a saint to achieve 2mpg more).
I get around 420 to 450 miles for a full tank.
The tyre pressures are checked and kept at the correct pressures.
I try to stay within 1,800rpm and 2,500rpm in each gear.
The car is new with 2500 miles so I would assume that this figure will improve with age.
So what is the realistic figures that people are getting ?
Has anyone managed to achieve a calculated 560 miles to a full tank (60mpg) ?
I don't think the official figures are realistic at all but I should have more varied figures between spirited driving and driving like a saint. Read more
Come on, the thing's only done 2500 miles, what do you expect at that sort of mileage with a diesel?!
Come back when you've got it up to 20k and if its still the same then summat's wrong!
Hi all
I am currently looking to replace my 180k plus Hdi with a lower mileage one. I have found several possibilities but they are only 90bhp and I need the extra power for towing etc. What are the main differences between the 90 and 110, eg intercooler & ecu remapping and what are the possibilities of a competent diy upgrade. I would consider using my 110hdi as a doner vehicle.
Also, what year did peugeot introduce the FAP as I want a pre Fap model! Read more
Yes, of course. I had been thinking about it for a long time but couldn't believe that the economy could improve as well as the acceleration. I found one on e-bay to fit my Bosch system (Siemens was used as well) and cleared it with my insurer by detailing that although the unit would produce more power, my aim was to increase economy in these times of high fuel prices. They approved it in writing and I fitted it. It is connected to a sensor on the common rail and although not easy to fit, was well worth it. The seller helped by taking photos of his fit and sent them to me. I was determined to disprove the economy claim and before I fit it I did a brim to brim test of town driving and a few trips to our caravan. After fitting and another tank of similar driving I found that the economy had gone from about 53 to 57 m.p.g.. Of course it is less with hard driving but I believe still improved. My wife noticed an improvement in the car claiming it to much more powerful, smoother and easier to drive. The morale of the story is that I should have fitted one years ago. Regards.
I have been spending the afternoon sorting out some little niggles with my car and not having much luck with the throttle.
When I got the car there was a huge amount of play in the throttle pedal I would have to put it down an inch before the engine reved. This afternoon I have adjusted the cable so its a lot tigher now but there is still 5mm of play in it a bit improvement but not right.
If I tighten it any more the car refuses to start if I rev it as it start it starts ok but the revs die and then it stalls.
On the position I have it now its a lot nicer to drive and the car starts ok. I am slightly worried about the clip though which is used to adjust the throttle it is very cheap and I am worried it may snap while driving due to fatigue from adjustment (I will buy a new one and keep it in the car in just in case).
What would cause my car to not start when the cable is tight? I can only imagine its due to the TPS? Is there anything else I can adjust? I have taken the cable off from the pedal and retatched it and but I cannot see any further adjustments to me made there.
Any ideas?
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I've already had it serviced well a safety check, oil change and plugs etc. In the end I pretty much ended putting it back how it was but I am getting used to it anyway, I have sprayed it with WD40 and put a little bit of oil in it, it seems to be a little smoother now.


I heard a lovely story about electronics in that fashion. Rover years ago ordered a set of circuit boards from a Japanese supplier, specifying n faults per million (10? Can't remember).
Anyway, after much arguing, the Japanese supplier agreed to the specification. When the boards arrived, the 5 'faulty' boards were packaged separately, with a note of what had been done to them to render them inoperative. :-)
It was simply a totally different mindset.