April 2009
hi people i purchased my focus when it was 53k miles the previous guy said he had the cam belt changed. Its now done 84k and i am not sure when the duration is to change it?
i am confused on 2 things reading on here,
1. is the cam belt the same as timing belt?
2. also is this a major change? big labour cost and parts cost?
3. Is there a way i can notice it in the car? acceleration, speed etc? i guess does a old one change any charactieristics in the car???
please anyone who can help be much appreciated :-) Read more
Hello again all, been away and now I am back, and surprise surprise the Pug is playing up.
Its the 307 2003 2.0hdi 90, 52k miles.
Couple of weeks ago ABS light came on, went off after a while so ignored it.
Now it has started coming on when I hit around 70mph, never at lower speeds. Always goes off again though on stop and restart.
Today, on braking started to feel a little bit of knocking, progressivly got worse, definite knock, clunk, knock on braking, brakes appear to be working as well as they always did though.
Any ideas, could this be a problem with the ABS, if so any ideas what and how much the darn Pug is going to cost me this time.
It has had new rear pads recently, fronts are fine for thousands more miles, had a full service a week or so ago and nothing out of the ordinary found then.
Cheers and look forward to the replies, especially if they are non expensive.
Corblimey....
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You could well be correct, thanks for the info.
Couldnt stand the noise so took it to my usual independant, fault code was sensor on back wheel, but they reckoned the wheel bearing was causing sensor to 'trip', cost me £140 for a new bearing to be fitted.
Now I have just got to find a road where I can get the motor to 70mph to see whether the ABS fault kicks in again, if it does its back to the garage for a free fix this time.
Apparantly the knocking sound is actualy the ABS doing what it is supposed to, it realy does sound quite harsh though, not at all what I expected. Sounded like something was seriously amiss.
Cheers
Corblimeyguvnar
I have a 9 month old Octavia Estate, which I have had from new. It has always suffered from a rattling or creaking noise which I believe comes from the rubber door seals.
I am interested to see if any other Skoda owners have suffered from the same problem, and if so have they managed to get the problem fixed?
My dealer doesn?t seem interested in helping, and Skoda Customer Services are only marginally better.
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I ook the Octavia to a different Dealer today, Griffin Mill in pontypridd, rather than Crapital Skoda in Newport.
I was delighted with the attitude of the technician at Griffin Mill. He acknowledged the noise within the first 50 yards of the test drive, and confirmed that the noise was coming from the rear door seal within 3 minutes. I had only arranged to take the car in to demonstrate the noise , but the technician was helpful enough to try and rectify the problem. Within 10 minutes he had applied some sort of grease, I presume silicone, to the door seal and the noise was completely eliminated. he said the grease was used on Peugeots, and cost £50 a tub. For the hastle I've been thrugh I'd gladly pay the £50 and buy my own tub!
The technician said that he has noticed the noise on other Octavia estates, but never hatchbacks. I'm amazed that the dealers can say this, yet customer services deny any knowledge.
It's just a waiting game now to see how long before the grease wears off.
My flat is a shared ownership one with a ridiculously long and complicated lease.
It says, among a lot of other things: "The leaseholder hereby covenants with the landlord... not to assign underlet charge mortgage or part with the possession of part only of the premises. Not to underlet the whole of the premises."
That's the only bit about letting or subletting I can find in the whole lease, and I think what it's saying is that I can't move out and let the flat to someone else? So I'm thinking I could rent out my spare room, as long as I still live here?
I'm going to email the people who own the other chunk and check, but I'd quite like to know what I'm talking about first. Just don't understand why they can't write these things in plain english!
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Thank you all for your suggestions. I have copied them all and passed them on to the Treasurer/Committee, complete with info on the various options.
Will up date when they have made the decision!
Hi all
My car (Vectra 2003)i changed brake pad ,,(all side) after that when is drive is start to noize.. nearly 2 -3 days now .today i seen my dash bord showing ABS WARNING light i could't understand ...can you give one advice plse;
Ajith Read more
As I previously mentioned, you need to have your car connected to a diagnostic reader to find out what has put the warning light on. Changing the brake pads shouldn't have upset the ABS system.
When you pushed the caliper pistons back in, did you force brake fluid back into the master cylinder, or slacken off the bleed nipples on the caliper? The only thing I can think of right now is if you forced brake fluid back into the master cylinder you could have damaged the ABS modulator.
Get the fault code(s) read out first though and post back what it/they were.
we have a corsa that gets hot very quickly. i thought the stat may be stuck but all hoses seem equaly hot and the rad is hot but still she boils. is it poss that the water pump is gone. when the car is revved is there supposes to be a flow of water into the reservoir.??? this does not happen. many thanks rich Read more
many thanks for all the info.
Had this car since new (March 2002) and at 4 years old ( March 2006) dealer advised that main oil seal was leaking which meant gearbox out to change seal. The car was out of warranty but had been dealer serviced since new. Porsche agreed to cover 100% of the part cost and 90% of the labour cost, which I though was generous and was accepted. The car has always been serviced by Porsche main dealer and the last service, April 2009 they reported that the same seal is just started to sweat again. Although they said it would not need replacing immediately it might if it started leaking more. Appreciate that this is a 7 year old car but I would have thought a Porsche should be able to make or source an oil seal so not have to have its gear box removed every four years or so to change. Not sure whether to let the Porsche dealer change the seal again or ask about another good will gesture or trust it to a specalist repairer, but I am not sure who they are. Read more
You won't get a penny out of Porsche.
Don't bother trying.
If you want a legal expert to tell you exactly the same then post on the Pistonheads Porsche forum and a well known barrister will tell you the same but far less politely.
Hi All,
My focus has been playing up the last few days by making a whirring noise when under load. It originally happened a couple of weeks ago but only lasted for half an hour and then righted it's self but now it is full on and not going away.
The car has done 80k and I have had from new, it has been pretty much faultless. I originally thought the sound was the exhaust which was replaced in December but this is not the case. It just makes a whirring noise under load and the engine makes a rattle when at stand still. The sound stops when the clutch is depressed at a standstill.
The mpg is over 50mpg and I have no loss off power, so far all i have come up with is injectors, cat? turbo/ leak and maybe flywheel thing on diesel?? All of which are mega buck so any help will be greatly appreaciated.
Thanks in Advance. Read more
convinced it is the cat as is getting louder and sounding more like the exaust, the exhaust was replaced in Dec. As far as the rattle from the clutch idler gear thing. When the whirring sound temp resolved its self the rattle went??
I saw some cats locally for my car £90 is this any good as everyone has said they are around £250??
Hi,
We have an S-type car that had a leak from around the area of the auto gearbox. The dealer (Jag) looked at the car, and told us the fault was a leaking sump gasket. They gave us a quote to the job then did it at that price.
But; then the leak started again, a week or 2 later, we took the car back, now they have said the sump is slightly distorted and needs to be replaced. After some discussion they dropped their labour rate to 50% and knocked 10% of the part but it still ends up costing more than it should as I am paying for them to do virtually the same thing twice.
I thought it would be reasonably fair to pay for the new sump but get them to the labour free as they initially diagnosed the fault incorrectly, but no go.
How does that stand with the The Supply of Goods and Services Act 1982 that seems to say ?The work has to be carried out with reasonable care and skill, in a reasonable time?,
They did not diagnose the fault correctly so why should I have to pay them to do the job twice? (Albeit once at half price)
How do you balance it against the fact that perhaps it was not the easiest thing to diagnose without taking the sump off (which they did when they changed the gasket) ?
Cheers
Geoff
(First post hello all) Read more
The distortion aspect seems to me to be a bit of rationalisation for a cocked-up gasket replacement. I wonder how an oil pan could "distort" when fixed to a crankcase/gearbox by numerous bolts. It would have to be very well hammered to twist or curl up, independently of the crankcase. Unless it was used as a trampoline whilst off the car:)
Just wondering - does any volume car manufacturer still produce a model with an overhead valve engine?
Poverty-spec models and old Rover V8s spring to mind... Read more
I've thought of a pushrod engined car in current production!!
The Vauxhall VXR500 - uses a Chevy LS2 6.0 OHV V8, more commonly found in the Corvette. And very lovely it is too.
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Ford Zetec cambelts don't snap!
It's the pulleys or tensioner failing that causes the problems, not the cambelt.