March 2009

jiisus

Hi guys, I have an 01 cougar v6 and recently it has been revving up to 3500 when driving along and in between gears. When you aproach lights in neutral it revs really high then falls back down to idle speed after a few seconds. You can actually accelerate without using the throttle sometimes and then it will go normal again. Very confused as it doesn't seem to be throwing up any management lights. Any one else had these symptoms?? Read more

Saltrampen

message on well known repair company website
"At XXXX we always try to repair windscreen chips where possible to save you both time and money."
MOT was due on Monday
Rung Friday last to say had a 15mm x 9mm chip in drivers view (low down) I suggested probably need a new windscreen.
Told to take it to the repair centre and they can decide.
They say repair , which they did, chip doesn't look much smaller, ask if it is OK for MOT
they say as it is low down (15 cm from bottom edge, near centre of steering wheel) it is not in field of view. Cost £10
Booked it in to the MOT , tester says it is swept area and in area above steering wheel, so fails. (All else passes). When looking out from drivers seat, the chip blocks the view of the bonnet, unless you are under 5ft.
Now told they have to order in a windscreen, maybe a few days before they can do it, cost another £75. Then I have to pay for the retest fee for the MOT.
So I have spent £10 + retest fee and it has taken probaby a week longer than it should.
After the repair the chip is still 15mm x 9mm and according to the pamphlet it the windscreen repair centre in the driver's view.
Do these technicians read their own pamphlets?
Moral: If you need a repair done on windscreen for MOT go armed with the MOT page on windscreen damage and a ruler before you pay anything!
Also does anyone know where the bottom of zone A on the windscreen is ? So pictures show it going to bottom edge others say swept area, others to just below steering wheel.





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Saltrampen

UPDATE:
Technician re -inspected area and said it was size of a 5p piece and in swept area.
He disagreed with my version of what was said during the chip repair.
A few days later I spoke to a lady based at same branch who agreed the damage was greater than 10mm, a 5p is actually 16mm (I am sure all references to 5p's have recently been removed from this company's website) and matter been referred to central customer services.
Another 2 days pass and they fit a new windscreen (different technician) with £50 deduction from windscreen excess (£75). since not paying full price for MOT I guess this is OK.
I happy with outcome, but the "saving your time and money" comment on their website may depend on which branch of this company's repair shops you go to.

nimbin

hi

I've got ford fiesta ghia (W Reg) can't get it to start for some reason when i put igntion on all the speedo rev temp etc go mad and fly round on dials. there is still nothing the car wont start turn over thr is nothing...

anyone shed any light on this ??

thanks

Neil Read more

bell boy

Dead battery? Poor voltages can cause all sorts of problems with electrics/dash/etc.

>>>>>>> my thought too
as for the light bit i dont think my torch will shine down the internet
redcliff

Does anyone have any experience of black horse motor warranty cover one claims?

I was thinking of a 3 year policy, as it sounds quite good on paper, but wondering what would happen if i needed to claim?

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Armitage Shanks {p}

Speaking as a cynic and ready for correction - I think some of these policies will pay for a failure of something but not for subsequent or consequential damage. So, if your cambelt fails they will pay for that but will they pay for all the bent valves and damaged pistons? Perhaps someone can tell me/us?

rosco p

Hi,

have had this car for a year and think it's using a lot of oil - last serviced 6 months ago and since then has done about 4k miles but I have topped it up twice with at least a litre of oil each time.
It only does short journeys, but the consumption still seems high - I am aware it is the same unit as the mazda 6 which has had a few issues (!) so wondered if high oil use is a symptom of things to come.....?

thanks,

Rosco Read more

cj1000

hi do you think the car is burning oil? or do you think it's leaking?
If its burning it might be worth checking the turbo to see if thats the cause.
If a leak is suspected it may be worth removing the under cover and cleaning the engine to see if a leak is present anywhere (check your oil filter as they can start to leak if not fitted tight enough).
Hope this helps (ps your car wil not have a dpf so its not related).

ffolliott

Hi - I have posted this before about a year ago but I still get a starting problem every so often which persists. Have a 1993 1.1 Petrol Fiesta auto choke. It currently often refuses to start after a long rest (eg overnight) which may be temperature related. Engine turns over and you can hear it wants to go but won't catch and fire up even when I connect my jumpstart battery booster. Sometime if I leave it an hour it will start ok. Battery is good and spark is evident. Without exception if I tow it for a bump starts it starts ok after 25 yards and runs fine immediately. Have tried various numbers of accelerator pumps pre turnover and holding pedal to the floor, cleaning breather, taking of air filter etc but cannot find a single reliable 'trick' to get it going. I have also fitted a brand new starter motor. Have always owned older cars (this is the newest one I have ever owned) so fairly familiar with old car starting problems - but this one - with its electronic EMS etc - has still got me baffled. Why will it always start when bumbed but not on the starter motor.

Any help welcome.

Many thanks Read more

injection doc

Pumping the throttle & holding it down will only cause you more problems. Do not touch the throttle when you want to start it. It has single point injection & when you hold the throttle down it put the ECM into clear flood mode & shuts the injection off.
Have the valve clearances been set correctly & has a compression test been carried out. They do suffer with valve wear & fail to start when cold but a bump start gives it that extra bit of compression.
Next time it fails remove the plugs & squirt some 20/50 oil down the plug holes the spin it over couple of times with the plugs out then refit them & if it starts it will indicate the compressions getting low.
try Some redex ( yep snake oil for the synics ) in the fuel may help & if it does you will know the valves are tired

RogerM4

I have a 2001 Honda Civic 1.6 SE VTEC with a Honda radio/CD player. Recently the radio/CD player suddenly stopped working and the clock, that is normally visible on the display whenever the ignition is on (even if the radio/cd is off), disappeared. I checked and changed the dedicated radio fuse in the accessories fuse box even though it seemed to be OK. The radio/cd player would still not work, neither did the clock reappear. Is there a fuse in the radio itself that could be the source of the problem? Or could there be another explanation? Any help would be much appreciated. Read more

Woodspeed

Many units have a line fuse very near the unit, or even plugged into the back. But you can get excellent units that play MP3 CDs now from Clarion, JVC, Sony, etc, from about £50, plus the necessary fitting kit and fascia for a Honda from about £20.

Lee182

Hi guys,

I'm hoping someone can help re assembling the rear lock mechanism and getting it to work as i don't have a clue how it all goes back together.

Pics

img15.imageshack.us/img15/1980/c902pics310808001u....g

img17.imageshack.us/img17/4316/c902pics310808004.j...g



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Lee182

Anyone?

mofo

Hi all, here's hoping some one can help me.

I bought a 2001 2.0HDi with 19k on the clock, really chuffed as it's one of the best I've seen whilst searching, from a husband and wife team who trade from home.

Rang the previous owner when I got home to check up on a few things (timing belt etc) who told me that it had been losing coolant in various amounts since 80k which was why he finally got rid of it when the loss increased to daily (he did do quite a few miles a day!) and he said that it never over heated!

Checked header tank next morning which was full (overfull!!!) and the rim around it was wet, which I dried. 300 miles later coolant has reached max level indicator and rim is again wet.

Over the last 250 miles don't seem to be losing much coolant but header tank is always wet.

Have read many posts and have checked for bubbles in header tank (none), hissing (none), smoke/smell from exhaust (none except on initial running), emulsion in oil (none), engine runs low 70 - 80, although if I squeeze what I think is the (squidgy!)manifold pipe I can hear a hiss from the filler cap even though the coolant seems to coming from the (overflow?) pipe when it does leak.

I want to keep hold of the car (last owner changed oil/filters etc every 10k, and it is in good nick) but if it is the head gasket will prob try and get money back from trader (only had the car a week) and they had been running it before selling so surley must've been aware of coolant loss??

I'm hoping to be able to do further checks this weekend and do a few more miles to see if it does fall any more before making final decision........any ideas or suggestions, surley it can't be that it's been getting overfilled for the past 30k????? previous owner did say that the warning light used to come on so maybe he did overfill it and has every time since, he did seem to have less mechanical knowledge than me (lol)

Thanks all, long post = sorry! Read more

Andrew-T

That's a shame - don't tell us you were not concentrating because of worry about coolant loss? :-(

owain859

Just picked up a clio mk2 1.2 litre.
Passed its MOT fine, but then suddenly the other day the engine cut out, so i rolled into a street, waited 5 minutes and it started again. Further down the road it did it again. I called the aa out and it started fine and ran perfect. Then later on it did it again, but this time wouldn't start.

The aa came out had a fiddle with the fuel relay and it started fine, However its stuck at my house now, not starting.

Could it be an intermittent fuel pump? fuel relays? crank sensor? Read more

owain859

Nah it not crank sensor,
Got a new one but still won't start.
Sounds like relay issues, because it will not start anymore.