March 2008
I have a Hyundai Coupe which completely threw me this morning.
I find that if the car is slopeing to one side or the other, often if the petrol is below 1/3 full, then if the car is left for a while then it will not start. I put this down to petrol starvation due to the position of the tank and slope etc.
I jacked up the drivers side to make it flat and after the engine turned over for 30 seconds, and therefore pumped the petrol to the engine it started.
To start the car you have to depress the clutch so I was inside it. After starting I got out to remove the jack and was stunned. The OSF wheel was spinning ie guess 5 mph in first.
But the car was in neutral and stationary!. Obviously the NSF was on the ground and stationary. This made me stare in disbelief. I used my foot to stop the wheel spinning, but when I removed my foot the wheel imediately started to spin again. the car is of course front wheel drive.
I dropped the car and the wheel stopped with no noticeable change in engine note.
please explain.
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H.J. advocates the use of premium petrol grades usually BP or SHELL because of the "gumming up" of throttle bodies caused by lower grade petrol. the last time i looked it was 7p a litre more expensive than normal grade which would cost me £3.50 more every time i fill up. i've always used the cheaper stuff with no apparent problems. does anyone know of a cheaper way of preventing "gumming up" additives etc that work. Read more
Honest - no I'm not; these figures are "brim to brim" measurements.
The best I've managed has been 52.5mpg over 185 miles; that was on a single journey in near ideal conditions though.
If one of you could find the official mpg figures for the 1996 Suzuki Swift automatic with the 993cc engine I'd like to see them; I've looked on the web but not been able to find the correct data.
Hi there.. .could someone please please help me..
I have an M Reg 1994 Peugeot 306 XR and have a problem with the immobiliser... all was working fine but now for some strange reason when i turn the car on it goes straight on and does not now require me to enter the immobiliser code in first, it just goes straight through and the display lights go green immediately. This is of course worrying should any one try stealing it.
What exactly can i do to resolve this issue and force the immobiliser to request my code when the car is turned on?
What do i need to do?
Please help, cheers!
Gareth Read more
Hi room i was just reading the car sharing lane scheme on the BBC website, what i would like to know is what lane do they use? if its lane 1 that will means all HGV's will have to use lane 2 only and can cars in the car sharing lane "undertake" cars on their right? Read more
you cant beat sitting in some elses motor getting from A-B knowing its costing you nowt and having a bit of chat about life with a stranger , you never see hitchhikers these days ..thats a shame in my book ...a sign of the times i suppose, oh and i always prefered volvo wagons it seems they were made for the comfort of passengers ,think they were f10's
I've seen the above going for £100 with tax and MOT til end of May.
97k, M95, "regular" service history.
I'm tempted to get it for the hell of it!!
Opinions?? Read more
>>I'm tempted to get it for the hell of it!!
And what are you going to do with it?
Cut a slot in the top and use it as a money box.
MD
Whenever I drive my car from a cold start, 2nd gear always engages with a crunch. I have been told this is called 'baulking' which is caused by the cold gear oil being too thick to allow the synchromesh to work. Does anyone know if this will cause premature damage/wear? I was also told, to fix this, all I would need to do is replace the transmission fluid. I would like to know if this is good advice and also what spec/viscosity gear oil I'll need to use. After the car is warm, the gear changes couldn't be smoother, it's just the first two or three changes from 1st to 2nd on any given journey.
I have heard stories of '2nd gear crunch' being an issue on a lot of VAG cars past and present. However, I don't think this is acceptable for a 2 year old vehicle with just 25k, supposedly built to a high standard, to be having this problem. I've had the car since 18k and this issue has been present since I bought it from a VW dealer with full VWSH. I assume the gear oil to be the stuff put in at the factory so why am I getting this problem??
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Read more
Have you tried double de-clutching as a no-cost solution?
I own a 306 T reg 1.4 Meridian, and i am having problems. The car originally was just stalling at junctions and would idle irratically, and was slighly jerky when releasing the accelerator, i continued driving it for a few weeks, before i replaced the idle speed control valve (advice from internet) The car seemed to work fine for the day, irratic idling gone, jerkyness gone, although the car didnt seem to pick up aswell, i was just pleased that the car was driving better. BUT i came to drive it the next day and it wouldn?t start, unless i applied throttle, and whenever i dipped the clutch it stalled. it got worst, so i eventually called the AA out on home start. He tried replacing the stepper motor, this didnt work, tried to play with the idle screw, but it was rusted in, so he thought this was either the problem, or it was electrical. As a temporary measure he adjusted the throttle cable to stop it stalling, and i took it out for a quick 5mile blast, and it worked ok. I came to drive it the next morning and it was back to the way it was, before. Throughout all these problems, whilst driving, the car would jerk the warning engine diagnostic light would come on and it would lose alot of power for 5 or so seconds, and then the light would go out, I believe the two problems are connected. + The trip meter keeps resetting itself, could that be from a surge of electric? Please help if anyone has any ideas, I don?t know where to start next, ive read lots of other problems that sound similar, and so many people said they tried this and that but solutions and it didn?t work. Read more
Luke
If the idiot AA man thought that tampering with the [factory-set] throttle stop was a good idea; it shows how much the AA miss their lovely training centre. [And all their other assets that Buffini looted...]
You really do need to get the fault-codes read; I've got a horrible feeling that you still have the factory-fit Sagem long coilpack, it's failing and it's spiked the idle control circuit in the ECU.
There's just a small chance that it's a feed or earth issue; so get those checked through first by someone who knows what they are doing - not the AA man obviously.....
Last week my wifes 2005 fiesta which we have owned fronm newwas invoved in a serious accident (not her fault).he entire side has been smashed including the windscreen post and floor is bent. The car has only covered 6000 miles from new.
The insurance companies "approved repairer" has given a quote of £3300 to repair it. This is about £2000 less than the car is worth prior to accident.
I am not comftable with the idea of them repairing such extensive damage.
Will the ford warrenty both body work and mechanicals still be valid?
It is not currently at a ford delaear- can I insist that it goes there?
Can I claim the reduction in value from the other driver as I will be left with an extensively repaired car rather than a pristine one (which we have had from new) so is worth less when resale comes to be considered.
Quite frankly what ever they do I am going to sell the car immediaatley upon its return as given the extent of damage neither my wife or I would feel comftable travelling in it.
Any advice please?
{typo in subject header corrected} Read more
Probably because very few people know about it.
Daughter has failed her driving test for the third time!! The Examiner failed her for 'hesitation' because an oncoming driver signalled for her to pass a parked car on her side of the road by flashing his headlights and she waited. The reason she waited was because one of her friends also failed her test because she chose to accept the other driver's invitation and move off in almost similar circumstances!
Question: does the Highway Code indicate anywhere that it is appropriate for a driver to make a manoevre when another driver flashes his lights? My understanding is that if I signal to another motorist in this way and an accident results then I could be held liable.
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When I took my LGV test, clipping the kerb was a fail.
Our v reg scenics back in the garage again. Last year the water pump bearing seized which cost 800 for new pump/cam belt , this week it started running rough and garage have checked spark plugs.ht leads, distributer cap which are all ok but theres low pressure in 4th cylinder so they think its either head gasket or the heads knackered . Estimated cost to fix 1200 quid if it needs a new head. So do i fix it or just trade it in? Read more
If you trade it into a Main Dealer and assuming the saleman misses the faults then its a grey area for them .. a lot depends on what SIV (stand in value) they place on the car .. if they value it to trade out of down the auction then they wont really be bothered in chasing you ... typical SIV would be about £300 to £600 (you may be offered more in a deal due to the over allowance) in this scenario ... however trade it into an independant dealer who intends to retail it then you may find he pays you a visit a few days later to collect the difference.
Over the years we have taken a few wrong uns in PX we just put it down to "nature of the job" ..... HOWEVER I did once prosocute a private man who had clocked his trade in by a 100,000 miles ... he now has a criminal recored for theft thanks to the trading standards.
Browse
>>How's that experts?
Tip Top!
There's more drag when the oil is cold and more viscous.
This is the same drag that's avoided by pressing your clutch in when cranking the engine over - when it's really cold, the engine speed during cranking will actually be affected by this source of drag.