June 2007
A couple of friends have asked if they could stiffen up their suspension a little.
Apart from renewing the dampers to get a fresh set. Some want increase the spring rate for heavier loads, such as carrying things in an estate or towing a caravan and others to get a sports ride, where as an example a Suzuki Swift Sport is tighter than the Std. Swift. This is because they can't afford the sports etc.
But not wanting to reduce the ride heights as the kits you can get -40mm or 60mm etc.
Anyone know where you could get the spring and damper rates the manufacturers use as a starting point.
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My 2L Mondeo ghia estate (mk 2) will be 10 years old in November and, having just turned over 138,000 miles, has reached a critical stage in its life. It is on the original clutch and, apart from all the little niggley things:
It will need 4 new tyres in the next few weeks (say £220)
At its 140k miles service, in about 6 weeks, it will need a replacement cam belt (assuming nothing else too major - total £400?).
In another 3 months it will have to pass its MoT - at goodness knows what price.
The car has to work hard ..... for work, I typically have to drive 40 miles, then take to pot-holey minor roads and farm tracks. I do about 13k miles pa.
I take the car to have no monetary value at present, but my local independent mechanic seems to think that the above mentioned outlays would be worth it to keep the car on the road for another 2 years/20k miles or so.
I realise this is a 'how long is a piece of string?' question, but I just wonder at what stage other Mondy owners have called it a day. Or ..... are there any further strategies, such as bringing the MoT forward to see what else may be needed in the near future? It's the eternal motoring question - to spend or not to spend; to ditch it, or to keep it!
Any opinions welcomed!
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Mk 1 1997 1.2 8v recently moves to the left when accelerating and to the right on overrun; also on acceleration more resistance turning to right. Had car from new; no bumps; 179,000 miles still on original clutch (despite teaching 2 daughters to drive); no play in steering wheel or track rod ends; tyres ok; brakes checked all wheels spin freely no binding and brakes evenly; steering is ok if I coast in neutral. Any ideas? car goes well otherwise and I am hoping to get another couple of years out of her. Read more
Hi Folks and thanks for replies,
Have changed both front wishbones; steering is now perfect; bought bits from buypartsby; very cheap, genuine parts, prompt delivery; work probably took 4-5 hours.
Tips:
ensure car is well supported (trolley jack under front cross member 2 axle stands (with blocks of wood to protect body) under each front sill jacking point)
the anti-rollbar has to be disconnected (renew bushes if worn)
tighten nuts/bolts slightly before trying to undo them (may need breaker bar)
use rubber grease to ease front bush (chassis) into position
be VERY careful not to cross thread any bolts/nuts
do not fully tighten bolts/nuts or re-connect any part of anti-roll bar until car is supported by wheels (on blocks to improve access)
Hope someone finds the above useful
Regards
Tim
Hello,
I have a Saxo 1.4 Furio.
When I turn the engine on, it chuckles then starts, then its fine.
Recently it has been doing it while the engine is already running, when sitting still, he my have a "Fit" and shaking.
Not only not but my revs on my car either come down slowly or stay at 20 revs, or even 30 revs at times.
If I put my foot on the gas while its doing this it will make a low hum..like its about to cut out and the revs actually go down while I put my foot on the gas, I believe its staving the engine of fuel when I do this.
But most of the time no the rev's are higher than they should and it chuckles and cuts out if I put my foot on the gas.
Also every so often my cut can cut out, not the engine that still runs, by my gas. Like if im doing 60 for example, and I put my foot down it could even cut out so its going down in fuel to the engine instead of going up like it should, then it kicks in and comes back. (sometimes)
I have started to notice power loss in acceleration, not really noticeable but you just feel it used to go fast...
Anyone got any idea's that would be great.
Maybe even a parts price for anything I need.
Thank you for your time.
James
Subject line slightly altered - PU Read more
Ok thanks, I will put it across to a few people I know see what they can come up with.
On an Audi A6 1999 saloon, to change the track rod balljoint, is it simply a case of undoing the adjustment nut on top, undoing the clamp nut and then splitting the joint? The locknut appears to work on the track rod itself and is not locked to the balljoint like most cars.
Any advice/help would be appreciated
Thanks Read more
Hi I own a Peugeot 106 1.5 diesel, can anyone tell me what the replacement intervals for the cambelt are. Cheers.
Moved over from discussion for a wider tech. response. - PU Read more
Jut reflect on how you've enhanced the image of the site ! :-)
Hi All,
The front near-side electric window has just packed up on my 1996 1.9TD. It started juddering going back up but now has stopped all together. Thankfully it is stuck in the closed position.
I've checked the electrics and they seem to be ok.
It looks like it is pointing to the cable not being wound by the motor.....it tries but nothing happens.
Has anyone else had the same or similar happen? Is a new motor the way forward and if so does anyone have a rough price for it?
Many thanks. Read more
It'll be a trip to the scrap yard to see how to disconnect it then.....
Thanks for the tip about fingers - I'm quite attached to them :-)
when using a pressure brake bleeder does it matter if the drain hose is not submerged in fluid?
cant really see why it should be , but i've noticed to "how to's" say it should be Read more
It gives a good indication of when fluid rather than air is coming out and if the pressure source failed you could get air drawn back up if it's not submerged.
Hi all,
The aircon has packed up on my 306 1.4 2000. When i switch the aircon on nothing happens at all the revs dont drop like it use to and there's no clunk like there was when i turned it on. Do i need a recharge??
Many thanks
Nigeb Read more
Its infront of the radiator and looks a bit like a radiator.
Plenty of info if you search for 306 Aircon on this site.
Here are some 2005 prices:
Dealer parts.
Long pipe - £70.09 ex VAT
Short pipe - £43.27 "
Condensor - £135.00 " (Serck)
Radiator was a £104.67. in VAT
It really isnt worth doing half a job as its going to cost you more in the long run.
--
Fullchat
Year 2000 Fiesta with fog lights set into the front bumper. N/S unit is fine but O/S unit is damp inside with green mould forming. Is this a known/common fault? Are these sealed units or can anything be done to clean/dry the unit out and prevent it happening again ?
Thank you. Read more
I had that. Took it out . The rubber seals leaked. Siliconed them up after drying out. No further problems.
madf
Browse
My '93 Passat 1.9 TDI has done 170,000 miles and I had to spend a bit to get it through its MOT, but apart from an irritating tendency for the engine management to cut the fuel feed to default mode from time to time (MAFF meter chnaged - so not that problem), it just keeps going.
Sorry that contains 0% of the answer I should have given about your Montego. I'd say keep it going until it konks, - it's worth spending a few quid to get it through MOT but I'd leave the cambelt so that old Monty creaks its last while still at work!!!