May 2007
Just going around the Mondeo prior to MoT and sale and doing a few jobs to help sell it on, one of which is a noisy CV joint. I've had the part in the shed for months, so thought it was worth doing to avoid a potential headache at sale time.
Done so far:
Hubnut slackened
Jacked and supported.
Anti-roll bar droplink disconnected from strut.
Caliper off and tied up out of the way, and brake disc removed
Track rod end balljoint split.
ABS sensor removed and tied up out of the way.
Strut top mount slackened 5 turns or so.
Bottom balljoint split.
Hubnut removed.
Driveshaft outer joint pressed back through hub (this was SERIOUSLY tight), and free of obstruction. Now supported on an axle stand.
All this took less than two hours. Said to myself it was all going too well, and it seems I was right.
Problem:
I cannot get the inner end of the driveshaft out of the transmission. Access is tight due to the casing making it impossible to get any form of lever in to the "front half" of the shaft circumference. I've tried all manner of levers bracing against bits of wood on the casing, and I cannot get it to shift at all. Haynes manual suggests a tap with the wrist on the end of the lever should be sufficient. It's not! Ran out of light and had to abandon the job, but would like to go back to it tomorrow evening with a clear head and some fresh ideas.
BTW it's a 5 speed manual (MTX75 transmission) and I'm working on the nearside (short) driveshaft.
Any suggestions welcome. Is it just a case of being more brutal with it, or are there any pearls of wisdom anyone would like to share?
Cheers in advance as always.
DP Read more
Letting the other car go in a narrow street, my tyre brushed the kerb and on closer inspection there is slight cracks in the sidewall of the actual tyre. Is the tyre safe? Can't find much info on the internet confirming this. Many thanks Read more
The worst possible place to have a tyre fail is in the middle of nowhere when you suddenly remember you never got round to getting the spare repaired from the last puncture.
I have bought a 1275 engine for my Mini that began life in a Metro.
It comes with all ancilleries apart from the carb and manifold.
What I need to know is will the manifold be ok for the bigger engine and are the carbs the same apart from the jet size; ie, can I rejet my existing carb or will I have to source one from a 1275 mini/metro?
All help gratefully received!
Thanks,
Stuart
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Ah, the days of listening to the hiss at each carb intake (could never afford one of those swish air flow devices), and then trying to get the two throttles to open simultaneously! I agree that one big carb always seemed preferable.
JS
Hi,Fuel filler flap will not operate .I have read previous thread about lubricating the pulley from inside the boot; but it will still not function.How do I get the petrol cap open!
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I had this embarassing problem a few years ago on my Mondy mk2 estate. You pull up at the pump and have to scramble about in the back, take of the cover, and yank on the cable before the petrol flap would open.
I had assumed that it would be due to a stretched cable, but Backroomers advised me to lubricate the cable (I think I used WD40). Lo and behold, it solved the problem. There must be a reference to the thread somewhere in the archives.
Having done all the usual net searches, could anyone please advise if they know of a small suitcase type tyre pump/compressor which runs from the 240v mains, as opposed to the 12v accessory socket type?
One of these has just timed out on Ebay. It was a grey plastic case incorporating a carry handle, with the lead and hose stowed within the case. The name on it was " Boxy " and it was produced in Italy. The Ebay seller stated that these were available from B&Q under a different name but my local B&Q deny any knowledge.
Any hints or pointers much appreciated. Thank you. Read more
The B&Q one isn't is a suitcase - I know! Check out item 374 in this link, they are out there!
www.waltonandwalton.co.uk/results.htm
Should I have had to pay on the road charges and compulsary europa £89 breakdown cover which added £174 to the price of my car.
It says on the invoice "customer ordered extras and accessories":
Prep, HPI and PCI Charge 62.13
Euoplates 25
Europ assistance 89
Seems confusing to me!
Anyone else had this?
Thanks!
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In terms of stock, most supermarkets will have a buyer (one or more) to do sourcing. Lots come from fleets, but this is also true of franchised dealer nearly-new stock. Franchised dealers will also try to add on 'stoopidglaze' paint protection, GAP insurance, tyre insurance etc etc. - selling these is by no means unique to supermarkets. Similarly dealers will offer higher APR's on used cars (low interest loans on new cars are often subsidised). Bascially there is not much difference I would say, assuming you are looking at 'non-specialist' cars and a supermarket is as good a place as any.
Hi all,
We have finally purchased a VW golf TDi.
Its a 2000 W reg 1.9 tdi 110bhp.We paid £4000 for it. Has 56k on the clock and one owner from new. Lovely dark green colour.
I am aware its good to drain the diesel fuel filter periodically via the screw tap/bung at the bottom of the filter.
My question is how does one restart the car after draining the filter and surely the car will not have any diesel in the filter to run on?
Is there any tips for easy starting?
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You don't have to do anything, the water drips out of the trap and diesel takes it's place, air doesn't come into it.
My Astra 1.8 sxi which has disc brakes all round has a terrible brake squeal which is more pronounced at slow speeds and light braking. I can physically see the pads through the alloy wheels and there appears to be plenty of wear left on each pad. The squeal doesnt happen all the time but more often than not. The braking efficiency does not seem effected. I have given them a blast with the hosepipe thinking there might have been a build up of dust. Any suggestiions greatfully received Read more
I had an identical problem ealier in the year with my Astra SRi. A local mechanic told me it was common on the Astra especially at the rear. He removed all the pads and but fresh copper grease on them and plenty of it. 30 minutes work. The problem has gone and has not reoccured.
I often use a power washer on the car and I was told that this is probably what has caused the squeal as I will have washed off all the old lubrication, I now dont use this on the alloys.
was travelling south down the a46 today ( dual carrigeway) and there where two lorries neck n neck for about 5 miles blocking the outside lane , these people are suppose to be professional drivers , every car driver including me were bunched up waiting for the cretin to pull over, if he aint got the power to overtake the other lorry why does he bother... anyway good luck all for the bank holiday im doing the garden!!!! Read more
About a year ago I was on a two lane arterial road that was congested and moving slowly on both lanes. A guy in a car came roaring up the gravel verge overtaking us all. About a kilometre later I came up on him. He was stuck on the verge which had ended at a culvert and was trying to push his way into the line of crawling traffic. No one would let him in. He was red in the face and you could see him shouting and screaming. I didn't let him in either.
I have a N reg renault clio 1.4 RT that will not start, the fuel pump relay cuts in on initial cranking but then cuts out, sometimes the engine attempts to start up but then stops. I removed the air box, cranked the vehicle and shorted the relay and found no fuel to be injecting in. Vehicle is sparking ok so this is not an immobiliser problem. ANY ideas would be appreciated . Read more
ok cheers for that, i checked fuel supply to the throttle housing seemed plentyful, the car isnt at my house which makes it a bit more awkward. iv swapped the fuel pump relay, so i dont think thats at fault. on initial crnking the relay clicks in then shortly after cuts out. iv tried shorting the relay and had someone crank the engine it obviously wouldnt start. the injector does fire a very small amount of fuel to start with, but thats all. could it still be an injector fault if it does this? cheers for your time and help mate, you sound pretty clued up. im a technicien but hate electrics hahahaha, doesnt help i cant get hold of some wiring diagrams.
Update:
Car is now reassembled and once again drives as it should. It's taken so long not through any difficulties but through a simple lack of available time (and having another car to use taking a lot of the urgency away)
It's also now sporting new front brakes (pads and discs) and front tyres. Have decided to keep it and flog the Fiesta purely because a Mondeo sized car is more useful to us at the moment than a Fiesta sized car should the Scenic be out of action for any reason.
I love this car - it hasn't turned a wheel for about 6 weeks (it's had two wheels off the ground for the past 4) yet it fired up like it had been parked up 20 minutes before.
Thank you everyone for the brilliant help, advice and moral support!
Cheers
DP