May 2007

wils81

I have a mondeo tdci nov 03 registered so is just out of warranty. My battery light recently came on and i thought i had an alternator problem but today when i took it to a alternator specialist they had a look and noticed an oil leak. This has leaked onto the belt and made it slack which is why the warning light has been coming on.

The leak seams to be coming from an area on the drivers side and in front of the alternator. The problem is there is quite a lot of oil under there and its hard to see exactly where its coming from. One thing i have noticed is there seems to be some kind of sealant aroung a particular area and was wondering if this is the likely culprit and if so what is it.

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wils81

thanks alot fellas. To be honest im a bit p'ed off with fords and not sure if i will use them as it went in last time the battery light came on and they gave it back saying everythings now fine there was something missing from the alternator. They did however say that the alternator belt needed changing which at the time i thought was strange as it had not snapped. They charged me 80 quid for the diagnostic report.

My guess is they see oil on the belt and thought it was a spilled oil change from myself and just tightened the belt up and didnt notice the oil leak.

Clanger

I am considering buying a mulching mower for my gardening round so I don't have to carry bags of grass around and have bikers lecture me at traffic lights about the hazards of riding through a handful of deadly mowings that escaped from the trailer. Anyone got one? (a mulching mower, not a biker) Used one? Tried one and rejected it? Comments and opinions welcome.
TIA
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land Read more

David Horn

Which reminds me - are you certain that each circuit is on an RCD? They're still pretty expensive and it seems more likely to me that you'd have MCBs for each ring main then, if fitted, an RCD that covers the whole lot. Reminds me of my days in uni accommodation where the idiot next door had a tendency to play loud music all night when I had exams the next day. I modified a plug to connect live directly to earth - when I plugged it in it took out the circuit breaker which covered our rooms. I had a battery powered alarm clock, y'see.

Went with a bit of a bang and puff of smoke usually. The maintenance people at uni must have been pretty flummoxed by the end of it!!

krebb industries

I've got a 1.7cdti vauxhall meriva. The car is fine except for a strange noise, and as the warranty is running out I need to get it sorted.

When accelerating hard in a high gear, from 1400 to 1800rpm there is a load "chirruping" noise from the engine compartment directly in front of the driver.

The engine isn't labouring - it pulls well - but this noise doesn't sound good. Backing off the throttle stops it, and once through the rev range, the problem goes too.

Its done it from new, and vauxhall have just changed the alternator drive belt and tensioner, which seems a reasonable diagnosis.

however, the fault is still there - although much improved.

Is this a common fault? what else does this belt drive ? (the engine bay is so packed that you can't see anything clearly)

Thanks for any advice


Subject line altered to clarify make and type Read more

roland983

It is the v belt tensioner. Changing mine removed the noise.

bertie

Hello,

firstly, thank you to all that responded to my earlier enquiry.

While l'm trying to identify the cause of the problem with the limp mode, there is another nigly issue that l would value peoples opinion on.

The vehicle in question is a 2001 Y registered Seat Alhambra 1.9 TDi, S spec, AUY engine, with 130,000 miles on the clock, with a full service history.

Since owning this car the internal heater just hasn't produced much heat. Not so much a problem this time of year, but in the middle of winter it's a bit parky!

The heater is the manual type, not the electronic climatronic version.

The mechanics of the heater have been checked out, the dials are attached to their respective leads etc & the thermostat has been replaced. This has not made any difference.

l have heard that there is a secondary auxilary heater, in front of the near side rear wheel, that uses glow plugs to ignite diesel & if this has not fired several times (sooted up?)it goes into "lock down"

l have had the vehicle on the VAG diagnostics & all faults cleared associated with this, though again, no change.

What should l do next?

{Car details added to subject header as per one of the sticky requests! DD}
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bertie

Smokey,

thanks for the response.

l'll give that a go.

blondiebombshell

I am about to get my first car and the decision has come down to the VW Polo SE 1.4 with 5 doors and the Vauxhall Corsa Design 1.4 with 5 doors. I really like both of the cars but would appreciate the views of people who own them/ have experience of them.
In the magazines the Corsa seems to come out very well but its never directly compared with the Polo which makes it quite hard to decide. I am 22 so not exactly a teenager so whilst i dont want something thats really flashy, i still want an attractive car with a bit of sophistication. It would need to have plenty of ooomphh as i do like speed and it would be used to travel between essex and reading on motorways.
Any help from you experts out there would be great - i dont know much about cars other than what looks good appearance wise

{Subject header amended to make less vague, and to also include a follow-up question asked by the OP, which has now been merged into this thread - DD} Read more

Massao

I have owned Corsa B 1993 1.4 Swing for the last 21 years. The car is pretty economical, and very reliable. In the last 21 years, these are all the repairs, in addition to regular service items.

3 times timing belts replaced...

slates74

Hi.
The engine management light on my 04 clio dci 1.5 came on, on Friday got my breakdown out and they advised it was due an EGR valve fault and reset the car and would be ok to drive and if the light came on again to see a garage

Well the light has come on again and the only thing that seems to be difference is the fuel comsumption. Would this be an EGR blockage or something more. Am I ok to drive the vehicle till i can get it to a garage or am i doing it more harm than good.

Being a female I am worried about being ripped of at a garage and need to ensure I know my stuff about this possible problem Read more

Rodmaker

Is this a put on?

DP

Just going around the Mondeo prior to MoT and sale and doing a few jobs to help sell it on, one of which is a noisy CV joint. I've had the part in the shed for months, so thought it was worth doing to avoid a potential headache at sale time.

Done so far:

Hubnut slackened
Jacked and supported.
Anti-roll bar droplink disconnected from strut.
Caliper off and tied up out of the way, and brake disc removed
Track rod end balljoint split.
ABS sensor removed and tied up out of the way.
Strut top mount slackened 5 turns or so.
Bottom balljoint split.
Hubnut removed.
Driveshaft outer joint pressed back through hub (this was SERIOUSLY tight), and free of obstruction. Now supported on an axle stand.
All this took less than two hours. Said to myself it was all going too well, and it seems I was right.

Problem:

I cannot get the inner end of the driveshaft out of the transmission. Access is tight due to the casing making it impossible to get any form of lever in to the "front half" of the shaft circumference. I've tried all manner of levers bracing against bits of wood on the casing, and I cannot get it to shift at all. Haynes manual suggests a tap with the wrist on the end of the lever should be sufficient. It's not! Ran out of light and had to abandon the job, but would like to go back to it tomorrow evening with a clear head and some fresh ideas.

BTW it's a 5 speed manual (MTX75 transmission) and I'm working on the nearside (short) driveshaft.

Any suggestions welcome. Is it just a case of being more brutal with it, or are there any pearls of wisdom anyone would like to share?

Cheers in advance as always.

DP Read more

DP

Update:

Car is now reassembled and once again drives as it should. It's taken so long not through any difficulties but through a simple lack of available time (and having another car to use taking a lot of the urgency away)

It's also now sporting new front brakes (pads and discs) and front tyres. Have decided to keep it and flog the Fiesta purely because a Mondeo sized car is more useful to us at the moment than a Fiesta sized car should the Scenic be out of action for any reason.

I love this car - it hasn't turned a wheel for about 6 weeks (it's had two wheels off the ground for the past 4) yet it fired up like it had been parked up 20 minutes before.

Thank you everyone for the brilliant help, advice and moral support!

Cheers
DP

sony

Letting the other car go in a narrow street, my tyre brushed the kerb and on closer inspection there is slight cracks in the sidewall of the actual tyre. Is the tyre safe? Can't find much info on the internet confirming this. Many thanks Read more

Cliff Pope

The worst possible place to have a tyre fail is in the middle of nowhere when you suddenly remember you never got round to getting the spare repaired from the last puncture.

stuartl

I have bought a 1275 engine for my Mini that began life in a Metro.
It comes with all ancilleries apart from the carb and manifold.

What I need to know is will the manifold be ok for the bigger engine and are the carbs the same apart from the jet size; ie, can I rejet my existing carb or will I have to source one from a 1275 mini/metro?

All help gratefully received!

Thanks,

Stuart
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John S

Ah, the days of listening to the hiss at each carb intake (could never afford one of those swish air flow devices), and then trying to get the two throttles to open simultaneously! I agree that one big carb always seemed preferable.

JS

steviegs

Hi,Fuel filler flap will not operate .I have read previous thread about lubricating the pulley from inside the boot; but it will still not function.How do I get the petrol cap open!
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Waino

I had this embarassing problem a few years ago on my Mondy mk2 estate. You pull up at the pump and have to scramble about in the back, take of the cover, and yank on the cable before the petrol flap would open.

I had assumed that it would be due to a stretched cable, but Backroomers advised me to lubricate the cable (I think I used WD40). Lo and behold, it solved the problem. There must be a reference to the thread somewhere in the archives.