May 2007
Apologies if this has been covered, I had a look.
My sister-in-law has a Toyota Avensis Verso D4D, manual gearbox. High mileage now, think she said 140K. Well serviced. She likes it, and it goes nicely. Save that for a couple of years it has had a problem. She has to make it rev a little (more than usual) before trying to pull away, or change up if going uphill at lowish revs (revs that should work fine). She has adapted to it, but occasionally forgets. When this happens it all but dies and there is a pause before she can drive on. (I haven?t driven it, or been in it when this happens.) Not a long pause, but if she has pulled out to cross a busy road?
She likes the local Toyota garage. Save that they haven?t cured it. She has mentioned it at services, but they just say the diagnostics show things are OK.
Until recently I had an Escort TDI. A mechanic friend told me a small pipe on it that sent a signal (as pressure or vacuum, something to do with the turbo) should be cleaned out after a time. I have suggested to her that she ask if there is something similar on her car. Or that it may be that there is a sensor or electrical actuator that is no longer working properly and the diagnostic check only covers it as regards continuity or lack of, doesn?t check its function.
I have suggested that she get a Haynes manual to look for possibilities to ask about. And that she take it to a different T garage for its next service, as they may happen know more.
But has anyone come across anything relevant, please?
(And thanks in advance if anyone can kindly advise, in case I can't log on again soon. For some reason I have trouble on this site using my PC) Read more
I know it's a strange question but I've just filled my car up and got about 3 MPG less than normal.
We have had lots of rain at the moment so the roads are wet and have some puddles whick surely must affect rolling resistance. I drive mostly motorways but my tyres are quite wide, 235/45 x 18.
Have other people noticed this or am I typing rubbish? Read more
So...Return journey, Generally Downhill, very little rain, less wind...39.7mpg
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"...differently to..."
"...differently from..."
You say either and I say either.
V
Hi I have a Honda Civic 1.4 (2001), and want to replace the gearbox oil.
The manual only refers to the specification of the oil as "Honda MTF".
Halfords only seems to sell there own brand 80W90, and a quick look at the Castol site, suggests SMX-S which is a Fully synthetic SAE 75W-85.
Does anyone know what is recommended, and where can I find it? or should I stick with the Honda Branded stuff?
Regards
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Honda are slightly 'odd ball' in that they always used to recommend a 5W-30 engine oil for their gearboxes in the 1990's. No EP or AW additives. They then started selling this as their own proprietory oil in Honda branded bottles.
Your transmission would be fine with SMX-S (75W-85 g/box is similar to 5W-30 engine visc.). Alternatively you could use Redline MTL (70W-80 GL-4) or anything around that weight to a GL-4 spec.
I have the choice of keeping the BMW Service History complete by going with the Inspection Level 1 that is due in 2000 miles or using an independant who has been recommended by a friend.
Costs are: BMW £250 + £50 for MOT
Independant £190 inc MOT
Is the £110 extra at BMW worth it?
Appreciate help in advance
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Depends also on what you plan to do with the car as buyers like to see a full set of BMW stamps
If you are going to sell it soon, then probaly worth using the main dealer this time
If you are keeping this car for the longer term then this aspect its less important
Hello
Granddaughter telephoned me this morning to say her new Ka has a few problems.
They are as follows.
1. Constant rattling noise coming from passenger side rear quarter.
2. Knocking noise coming from engine at 1500 rpm when warmed up and stationary (constant knocking not intermittent)
Does anyone know what could cause any of the problems.
All help appreciated.
--
(iam not a mechanic)
Martin Winters Read more
Hello
The Rattling from the rear quarter was cured. It was wiring underneath the car.
The knocking noise is coming from the engine.
I will ignore the sarcasm and remain old and mature.
--
(iam not a mechanic)
Martin Winters
I've just seen some low car ramps on Wikihow:
www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-in-Your-Car
These must be ideal for jobs when you just need to get the car a few inches off the ground to do things like oil changes. Does anyone know where you can buy these ?
I personally don't enjoy driving up big steel ramps. Read more
These would do the job - motorhome / caravan levelling ramps (with built-in chocks) - as recommended by Steptoe.
Not really expensive either - just the job if you need a bit more clearance underneath.
www.milenco.com/levelling_ramp.html
My son has a Fiat Punto MK2 1.2 16valve, and the starter motor has been failing to always mesh with the flywheel ring when trying to start the engine. I have just tried to get the starter off to have a look at it, but I cannot shift it.
From under the car on the starter there are two bolts (which are attached to a plate) that I have removed, and these bolts are at 7 o'clock and 11 o'clock as it were. Around the other side of the solenoid which I can't see, but can feel, there seems to be a stud, which I assume locates it at a third point. I think it's a stud as it feels pointed at the end, and I cannot feel a nut on it, and doubt that I could remove a nut if there was one there without further dismantling.
So the question is please, has anybody on the foum remove one of these before. If so, are there more than two bolts to remove. If not, is it just a case of brute force, as it is probably a tight fit in it housing.
In anticipation, thanks,
Reggie Read more
Sorry bell boy should have had a small b. Also "you've" has got the apostrophy in the wrong place in my post. I will read my post before sending in future.
Reggie
Having offered to service a friend's Primera 1.8, I was astounded to read that I only need to put 2.9 litres of oil in it! Compare that to a Vectra 1.8 which requires 4.3 litres of the stuff (that's half as much again!)
Why is there such a variation between different car manufacturers, when the oil change intervals are largely the same?! Surely it wouldn't do a chain-cam Primera any good to be sloshing the same 2.9 litres of oil around for a whole year?? (timing chain failure from excessively dirty oil?)
Has anyone out there worked on any cars which have had a surprisingly low (or high) oil capacity for their engine size? Read more
Clearly 'Bell boy' was in the pub yesterday and 'Milkyjoe' spent his lunch hour in the pub. Regards Peter
I have a mondeo tdci nov 03 registered so is just out of warranty. My battery light recently came on and i thought i had an alternator problem but today when i took it to a alternator specialist they had a look and noticed an oil leak. This has leaked onto the belt and made it slack which is why the warning light has been coming on.
The leak seams to be coming from an area on the drivers side and in front of the alternator. The problem is there is quite a lot of oil under there and its hard to see exactly where its coming from. One thing i have noticed is there seems to be some kind of sealant aroung a particular area and was wondering if this is the likely culprit and if so what is it.
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thanks alot fellas. To be honest im a bit p'ed off with fords and not sure if i will use them as it went in last time the battery light came on and they gave it back saying everythings now fine there was something missing from the alternator. They did however say that the alternator belt needed changing which at the time i thought was strange as it had not snapped. They charged me 80 quid for the diagnostic report.
My guess is they see oil on the belt and thought it was a spilled oil change from myself and just tightened the belt up and didnt notice the oil leak.
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Not necessarily; I had a problem with loss of power in my previous car (a SEAT TDi) and it turned out that the catalytic converter was somewhat blocked. Car passed its MoT fine, and in fact it took ages to diagnose the cause as there were a number of possible causes, such as MAF, intercooler, turbocharger etc.
Because the problem had occurred over a period of time, when the cat was replaced, it was quite a revelation to have all that power back and the turbo whistling nicely again!...