May 2007
I have a 2005 VW polo 1.2 twist and it is going in for a service this weekend, VW have offered to changed all the brake fluid but this will cost a whopping 80 pounds! is it worth it?
The car has done 34,000 miles and it is all motorway, this car is very rarley used for any journey under 30 miles.
What does everybody think?
Thanks
Kush
{Subject header given a less vague title - DD} Read more
I have just been accused by a bus Driver of bad lane discipline... He basically stopped the bus shouted abuse and said he was going to report me I am not sure what I have done but here goes a quick round up 2 lanes I was in the right approaching a roundabout bus in the left was giving way to a car joining the from his left ... road then branches into 3 lanes as I was in the right hand need to go straight bus hadn't moved off so joined....thinking the bus had seen me and was probabley turning left on the round about....he was n't he wass going straight as well...but surely traffice on thr right has right of way ??? I am a bit concerned that he needed to stop the bus have a verbal ...I said I didn't think i was eorng but if I am "sorr" he continued to say he was going to report me.... so I am absolutely petrified....can anyone throw any light??thank you
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No way he can prove anything, police don't even bother about burglaries never mind a bit of road squabble.
Anyone can have stamps made up - cost is about £20 for the auto-inking ones.
Years back some of the more dodgy traders would use a 'John Bull Printing Kit' to make up their stamps - remember those? Read more
£1000 for a blank MB service book? No way!. I can get one for a couple of quid. I have known them being sold with a set of stamps, but blank to put the reg. no. and VIN number etc for around £30-40.
Hello
Is it just me or are more people cutting people up or overtaking on roundabouts just lately.
I had this happen to me this morning.
I was going straight ahead on a roundabout when a women (not being Sexist) with two child seats with babies in nearly collides with me while she overtook me on the roundabout.
It was silly and carried too much risk.
What are your views and opinions on this matter?
--
(iam not a mechanic)
Martin Winters Read more
You only get cut up or overtaken if you're dawdling. Increase your speed and chances are it just won't happen.
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L\'escargot.
Thinking of buying a recent Hornet, (SJB if you're looking in!) but it would have to be restricted for a few months (as I did test on 125) . I have read glowing reports and its obviously rated highly. One downside appears to be poor tank range combined with a pretty thirsty engine. Also considering SV 650 or Bandit 650. The SV appeals due to low down V twin torquey nature etc, the Bandit for its no nonsense simplicity. I hear poor reports of Suzuki finish and build. I'm a leisure rider mainly but ride throughout the year currently on a 500. I want something interesting, quick enough (without being mental!), a decent all rounder, decent build and running costs. Won't be burning up the tracks or appearing on You tube!
Suggestions/feedback welcome.
Cheers
Baz Read more
Yes you are right in what you write cheddar but I was actually referring to
something completely different >>
A great thing about language is that one can mean exactly the same and say completely different even though it makes sense in its own right which this sentence now probably does not so I better stop now ...........
Needless to say SjB I think we are of a like mind!
PS: I also bought a Hornet 900, realised that the 600 is much more characterful then didnt get one of those either - doh!
Hi all,
I've recently bought a 2.0 TDi Leon, the first service was already in the book. The second service is scheduled at the 20,000 mile mark and is fast coming up. I note from the receipt in the service book that a little over £100 was paid to a local Seat dealer. My closest Seat dealer wants closer to £250. As far as I can work out, there is little to justify this huge jump in costs other than the following: the 10,000 mile service was a mere oil and filter change, the 20,000 mile service also includes an inspection... Have I got this distinction right? Am I going to be ripped off if I pay the nigh-on £250 being demanded of me? What extra work am I actually paying for (the person I spoke to wasn't overly forthcoming with reasons to charge the extra money).
I understand that the oil for the 2.0 PD TDi is specialist and costs a lot of money, but I don't want to pay over the odds for what I suspect will amount to the most expensive lubricant change I've ever had to pay for.
One afterthought: does anybody know when the cambelt / tensioners need changing on this VAG diesel engine?
Thanks everyone,
Ben Read more
Ask for a break down of the charge being levied. You would get one on an invoice so it shouldn't be a problem to provide one. I would expect one increase in costs to be for a pollen filter which is usually replaced at this mileage.
I'd also consider moving to variable servicing if possible and you do sufficient mileage - ideally more than 15,000 a year. You may pay slightly more for the higher spec oil on the 20,000 mile service, but once on variable a 2.0TDi will typically do 15,000-20,000 between services (my A3 did 16,000)
My company '53 plate Mercedes E270CDi Elegance auto (saloon) has just gone back off lease at 66k and I need to replace it.
It has been excellent all rounder but the revised company lease rates for the facelift model won't allow me to stretch to a similar replacement in auto estate form, which is my preference this time round, even with a smaller engine.
I have tried an A6 2.7 Avant Multitronic, which is available and was very nice, but don't necessarily need the space in the rear seat of a E Class/5 series/A6, so have considered dropping down a size.
I have tried everything and had narrowed it down to an A4 or 3 series. I have tried the A4 2.7 Avant Multitronic and 3.0. Quattro Avant (which was a real disappointment after the 2.7 - I expected much more performance, but perhaps the 4wd drive train saps it too much...) and a 320d Touring auto which just gelled for me, being use to rear wheel drive I guess.
I haven't tried these yet but could have a 325d or 330d Touring in manual form - the premimum for the 330d is not much and there is little penalty tax or fuel wise. but I have read the 325d engine is smoother - any views from those living with them?
I could also have a 525d manual but that would mean saloon only... Read more
I haven't been able to find a manual 330d for a test drive but did try a 325d manual this after noon. It was a new 325d M sport saloon, standard spec. in black with c7k on the clock.
First impressions? I little lag setting off in first but pulled very strongly through the gears with more than enough torque and haste and settled nicely at 2k rpm at 80 in 6th on the motorway. Ride in M Sport trim was quieter and smoother than I expected. Taking it over some local fen roads, there was little in the way of tramlining, though it was fidgety and I found the steering became overly light at speed, and felt too heavy in town (probably the tyres). I didn't like the steering wheel, which was too thick for me to find it comfortable.
More than enough poke for my needs but I now know I wouldn't buy one. The manual gearbox was, in my view, appalling , with a slow and heavy action and nothing compared to the other two manuals in our household (MX-5 and Honda Civic Type S).
The M Sport seats had me in agony after 40 minutes and my back is still aching now. The indicators are overly sensitive but the most irritating and very worst thing of all was that my clutch foot kept catching the edge of the footrest when changing gear which made using the gearbox intolerable . I used to have the same problem with an old Z3, but with the top of foot on the underside of the dash trim. I also found the edge of the centre console rubbing my left leg.
I didn't make for a relaxing drive and was less enjoyable than the 320d SE auto I tried. I used to have a Accord Type R that was noisier and very demanding at speed but was nicer to drive than this M Sport. I might have enjoyed it more and I am sure a 330d auto would have been altogether different but as that is out of reach, it's irrelevant.
I guess what I have learnt is that I like the space and comfort found in bigger cars and just found it too cramped compared to what I usually drive. I shall keep looking!
My car is a Ford Focus, although this problem could occur with any car I guess...
I got the (original) exhaust replaced recently on my 1999 1.8i Focus Zetec (flex pipe, centre silencer and back box) but the new one appears to be blowing and is as loud as the old one was getting, if not worse !
The noise varies with speed - get the car up to 30mpg and you can hear a loud rasp from the rear of the car. Between 45-60mph and the rasp starts to resonate throughout the car pretty loudly, giving a loud 'booming' noise. Once you get over 60mph, it gets quieter again.
It's certainly far louder than I think is acceptable, even taking into account that a new exhaust is likely to sound different from an old one. It's also not the 'metallic' sound that you get from a new exhaust before it eventually gets coated inside - I can hear that sound and this is something else.
It's only a standard exhaust and appears to have been fitted correctly - the guys at ATS have been pretty good about it so far and have checked it out thoroughly, tightening all the joints, but can't find anything obviously wrong with it - it doesn't blow or make the noise when it's stationary and doesn't when you rev the engine either - it only does it when the car is driven.
It could be that one of the new parts is faulty of course, so the next stage is to take one of the guys out and show him just how loud it is but before I do, I was just wondering if anything else could be causing it ? ie. catalytic converter, wheel bearings etc ?
The exhaust appears to be hanging correctly, so isn't touching the bodywork and I've recently done a bit of DIY on the heat-shield to secure it, so I don't think it's that that's causing it.
Any ideas ? Any comments appreciated - cheers. Read more
"Exhausts will get quieter in a few hundred miles is a myth" but they will definitely get quieter in the first few miles-at least good ones will.This is because when the system is manufactured,the filling of the mufflers-usually basalt wool-is placed in the muffler in a very thin plastic bag-to protect the environment and the person assembling the system-also to ensure the right amount goes in.The bag melts after the first few miles-gives off a slight smell of hot plastic and a reduction in the noise level.
Just an easy one..can anyone recommend a good wax polish that lasts.Is mir any good?And after the wax,how do I keep the shine.My uncle who is a retired coachbuilder has always said the only way to wash a car after waxing is with luke warm water,with no additives,as in "wash and wax"
I usually wash it once a week,and wax it monthly..
comments appreciated
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spam
Hi folks,
I need to adjust the clutch cable on my pug 106 1.5 Zest3 diesel, 1997 (R). I have achecked my haynes manual and it shows nuts on the end of the cable near the clutch pivot arm, mine does not have these it has some strange plastic shroud midway alond the cable behind the airbox clipped to the bulkhead.
I don't know if mine is adjustable or if it's in two parts and this shroud covers some joint of some kind. It seems everytime i go to buy parts for this car i always end up with the wrong size or different looking part, do peugeot change specs evry 5 minutes or at random on their production line ?????
Regards and thanks in advance
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Slipping off the pedal happens occasionally so I would not woory about it. I suppose when I do it it do do it by degree and try a halt way down slip first which often does the trick and the bite point moves to a sensible position. Regards Peter
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Honda only do it every 3 years - do they use some kind of special brake fluid? I doubt it.