March 2007
Following on from the petrol issues of late, I have had my car at the main ford dealer due to severe problems with tickover speed and stalling at low revs (its a 2.0 Petrol auto model).
Stalling as you turn a corner or on a roundabout, in an automatic, can be such fun when the power steering cuts!!
The ford dealer did a diagnostic check and fixed a small rubber t piece on the vacuum system. The subsequent test drive noted the same problem. They then disconnected the MAF Sensor and told me the car needs a new idle speed control valve. This is £120 fitted by them.
Some further research by me has turned up quite a few other possible causes, including
1) Crankcase Breather Valve
2) EGPD Valve (Exhaust Gas Pressure Differential?)
The symptoms of these describe closely the problem i'm having. Mainly - idle is ok when cold. as the engine warms up, the problem seems to be a "pulsing" of the revs, leading to a stall.
Can anyone tell me how good the diagnostic kit is at a main dealer and therefore how likely it is that the part I need is the Idle Speed Control Valve?
Also, if it is this, is £120 too much to pay?
Finally, what is the implications of running the car without the MAF Sensor connected? It seems to run ok, but I would assume that thew ECU will eventually "learn" this and alter the way the car generates power?
Any thoughts would be very much appreciated!
Ta!
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I'm really pleased with my 55 plated Peugeot 407 2.0 HDi SE saloon - it's quick and quiet and a great deal of car for the money. It even accelerates in 6th!
I paid less than £10K for a 12K mile example from Robins & Day. It was a Peugeot owned car.
However, spirited driving reveals a really annoying flat spot when engaging the next gear (i.e. 1st to 2nd) and the revs are about 1500. No power. Then, half a second later it's there (just) but it happens in every 'next' gear, every change to a higher gear.
Is it simply my driving style? Do I need to learn how to drive modern turbo-charged diesels or is there a problem with this model and its ECU mapping? Or is it just my car?
I have yet to confront the Peugeot dealer - that will be my next course of action but in the meantime - does anyone else have this problem?
An Internet search for '407 flat spot' only shows one thread in an Asian forum ...
I look forward to your comments and ideas - I had a great deal of help with a Civic steering problem acouple of years ago ....
Knd Regards
Hugh Milsom
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Well i'm glad that you took my advice & tried the cleaner, there are those that ridicule what comes in a tin but then they must be living in the past. Not everything that comes in a tin works but diesel injector faults & cleaners mix quite well & well known to curing hesitations on very late HDI engines. I would advise that you use it every couple thousand miles and do give your engine a good burst, they do need driving & not poodling.
Thanks for the feed back & glad it saved you time & stress.
Regards Injdoc
Hi, I have a 2004 Renault Clio 1.5 DCI. when I brake at any speed in excess of roughly 40 MPH I can feel quite a severe ' judder' through the brake pedal, I have had the discs and pads replaced, and had the N/S wheel bearing replaced (because there was a bit of wear in it) but the problem persists, the car has ABS.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thankyou in advance.
Russell Barr.
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Hi there, I have an 02 1.5 dci for my work motor, I have the same problem, when I brake my steering shakes quite bad, I have changed the bearings, discs, pads and even a new calliper as i thought the bushes were worn in thr hanger. when the car has been jacked up on th front it seems a little better untin the suspension settles back down, I was going to start on the bushes/ bottom wish bone next.
im sure its not from the rear as it comes through the steering wheel and not so much the pedal.
any ideas before i start ripping out the suspension.
cheers
Terry
I am thinking of buying a Vectra and and it looks as though my budget will mean it will be a 2 litre or perhaps the newer 1.9 litre diesel engine car. I think I've read that the 2 litre engine is a chain driven camshaft while the 1.9 is cam belt that needs to be replaced at 4yr / 80000 miles.
Can any of you good people out there tell me from a reliability, maintaining & economy point of view which would be the better engine to go for. Is newer always better?
Is the 2 litre the Isuzu engine fitted to the earlier Vectras?
Thanks. Read more
Not so many problems as common rail engines? Not according to the vectra-c polls, problems with the DTI units (especially the 2.2 version) occur as the highest proportion of faults compared to the number of cars owned. Also, lots of complaints generally about that engine too.
Not that the CDTI is without fault mind, lots can and does go wrong with it.
My CDTI has been perfect, but I wouldn't pretend that everyone has been as lucky as me, same with your DTI. :)
Can anyone please tell me what could be the possibly causes of the windows heavily steaming up all the time in my friend's car. I think it is either a VW Golf 5-door diesel 1.9 SE TDI or 1.9 GT TDI, round about 2001-2003 reg.
If it is likely to be a fault in the air conditioning, would it be advisable to replace any electrical components before getting the dealer to look at it?
Could it possibly be the heater matrix?
Thanks
Steve Read more
dude i had the same problem, its the heater marix leaking, are you also getting a bad small
The handbrake warning lamp stays on ,on the dash
when the hand brake is on or off, i disconected the switch and it still stayed on.
I thought the switch was at fault,i fitted a new one ,but the light is still on.
Any ideas Gti Jo Read more
Thinking about it, twice i have had brake light warning switch
illuminate with the handbrake released and its always been the switch/plunger
on the brake pedal.
That's the brake light switch - nothing to do with the "handbrake" light.
Is this light red with an exclamation mark in it? If so it means you have low brake fluid. The handbrake switch is only there to test it and as a driver reminder about the handbrake.
Normally red lights mean danger, as in "stop there is something potentially dangerous with your car".
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Mike Farrow
I work overseas for a foreign company (paid in US Dollars)since I spend less than 90 days in the UK I'm registered as a non UK resident for tax purposes and don't pay any tax
I earn good money but no pension is provided, I save a lot of money every month i have defered pensions in the UK but all my savings and deffered pensions will not amount to a great deal of income, i plan to retire at 60 (12 years time)
I'm thinking of Buying a house to rent as a pension I will need a mortgage, plus use a lot of my savings as a deposit. I hear that there are such systems avilable now. What about capital gains tax, when or if i come to sell?
Where do i stand with the tax man if i do this? I have a specialist accountant in the UK, the last time i emailed him a question about inheritance tax ne charged me 75 quid for a reply!
So any free advice would be good Read more
Paint the asbestos with 80% PVA and 20% water mixed to
seal the surface and then screw 12.5mm plasterboard over, (Under).
NOTE:- You will have to pilot hole the asbestos
I would not be inclined to machine the sheeting in any way - drilling holes in it will free up dust and fibres which will drift around the place. It's a small risk, but avoidable. The point about not sinking screw heads through plasterboard is a good one - "drywall screws" ought to pull the outer paper surface in and end up flush with the surface, not break through into the plaster!
Vectra 1.8 yr 2004
central locking not being activated to secure boot (5 door) consequently car insecure over weekend any ideas help would be well appreciated (have checked fuses)
TF
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Thanks Dave, did,nt realize still under warranty took it in sat morning and they fitted a new lock (soleniod) as you rightly pointed out
Recently purchased a 1600 scenic, petrol auto. The car will only do reverse! There is some forward drive, but not a lot. Any ideas???? Read more
HI doc thanks for that. i will check that one out. i have just got a sykes and pickavant unit on its way with the new v5 pod so i will have a look in to all the box electricals this week. could you tell that it was faulty by putting on the brake lites. like the old ford escorts when they dimmed or just with a scaner check.
CHEERS BBB
Grateful for some advice. I'm going to do an oil change on our rencently purchased 02 Scenic 1.9 dCi and the Haynes manual instructs that after filling with new oil and replacing the filter that the stop solenoid plug is removed and the engine is then cranked to bring up oil pressure without firing up.
I know this is 'best practise' for any engine, but the Haynes manual does not show where the stop solenoid plug is. So my questions are:
Am I safe to just start the engine (very briefly) until the oil pressure lamp goes out, and then re-check oil level?
or, if the answer is 'no' is there a convenient fuse I can pull which will allow me to crank the engine without it starting?
Thanks to anyone who replies. Read more
HI the stop solenoid should be just under the header tank on the inner wing. with a black round rubber cap on it. where the petrol have a red cap but still in the same place hope this helps
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Sorry if i'm being a bit dumb here (!) but...
I say the water pump has gone, but there is a good flow through the system.
Why do I think it has gone? Because when the system is pressurised there is water leaking onto the drive belt and "spitting" up onto the inside of the bonnet. This is where all that water has been going!
Is this likely to require a new water pump, or is it a case of something else down there could leak when pressurised? Or could it simply need a new gasket on the water pump housing?
Still a little unsure!
S