March 2007
Hi - I recently bought a Eunos import that has sat in dry storage for up to 5 years. It vibrates at several speeds, and I am wondering if this could be caused by flat spots on the tyres from sitting sround without moving for so long? Or is it more likely to be wheel balancing? But once a wheel is balanced, doesn't it stay balanced? All the weights are still on there, and the tyres are Dunlops with good tread.
Any suggestions appreicated. Thanks. Read more
Has anyone successfully wired an Ipod to an old style Ford 6000CD head unit (volume knob on left, removable security panel on preset buttons)? More specifically I want not only to have the audio signal, but also to enable the head unit to display track information and control the Ipod, such as the kits from Dension allow.
Basically, SWMBO wants to connect hers to the 6000CD in her Fester, which is "CD Changer Compatible" according to a decal on the front panel. I have checked the Dension website, but they insist they do not support this head unit (only the newer "Visteon" 6000CD units).
I'm no electrician, but I do know that if the head unit has CD changer capability, it must be capable of sending and receiving control and status data, as well as a stereo audio signal from an external device, but at the moment it seems nobody has translated that capability to an Ipod.
Anyone know of a supplier that can do this? I can buy a simple FM adapter or knock together a basic line input lead for the unit, but I would really like to have the control and display elements as well if at all possible. Anyone know if a pukka kit is available?
Cheers
DP Read more
DP, did you ever get to the bottom of this?
My sister has asked me to see if she can get her hubby an ipod connector for his 2003 Mondeo with a 6000cd system - I am assuming this is what is referred to as the old one on here?
Any advice appreciated!
Morning All,
I have an 02 Mondeo 2.0 which had a new gearbox fitted at the beginning of this year after the old one destroyed itself. My local garage did a good job and I have no doubt about their workwanship, but soon after it was done it became harder to get into 1st and 2nd gear and occasionally 4th. It is more obvious when cold, but is still there when the engine is up to temp. Sometimes when driving I need to try twice to get it into 4th.
In addition to this when the engine is cold there is quite a high pitched whine, not to loud though, which goes when the engine is warmed up- it didn't do this before so I guess it is all linked.
The car is due in for a service shortly and the garage have said they will look at what I have mentioned, but I wondered if anybody had any suggestions. Would a different oil help for example?
Many thanks!!! Read more
I could be wrong but it sounds like the thrust bearing to me.
I have a 1996 golf gti 2.0ltr 8 v (AGG) it takes ages to start from cold when left overnight,it also has a slight miss fire. up to date it has had replaced,plugs,leads,2 x lambdre sensors,crank angle sensor.othe sensors i cant remember which ones,fuel filter,its also had the injectors and rail cleanedout,the thottle body has been cleaned,and re set,oh i forgot its also had a new dizzy cap rotor arm,and a new ignition amplifier, recovery man out 5 times,the alarm /immobilizer has been checked its fine. i have spent ell over £600 to date ,been baned from using the recovery people,(its not cost efective for them) it been in to 3 different garages one of which was a VW main dealer, Can any one please Helpppppppppppppp !!!
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The latest news on the cold start problem and the miss fire on the gti 2.0 8 valve.
I have just replaced the earth strap (plastic coated one) from the coil to the block.
after inspecting it i found that the strap just under the conection to the coil retaining bolt
which is about 1/2 wide was in fact only just conected by about 5 strands!!!
this has now been replaced and the missfire and the cold starting problem seems to be rectified.
i have also puchased for the sum of £8 a new gnition switch just in case.
Can anyone please tell me where the earth strap is under the battery ?
is it under the battery tray? as i also want to check that just in case !!
Question :- it has been in 3 different garages recently to try and solve this starting and miss fire problem
WHY HAVENT ANY OF THEM NOTICED THE EARTH STRAP??
SHMBO suddenly mentions that, for no reason , her window will not close fully and needed "fiddling" to get it to close fully. Having read the handbook, it mentions that on "auto" the window will stop and retract if it "senses" an obstruction. It will raise slowly on a gentle constant pull on the switch. The window seems very slow (and sticky) in its last half of travel, but manually helping it will not stop it stalling and retracting if on one touch mode. Can anyone pls help ? Fuse is OK , but she thinks the door was open in heavy rain about a week ago - however the car ( 2003 1.4 auto) has been parked in warm sunshine since. Any ideas? Many thanks. Read more
Many thanks grease monkey. Silicon spray worked fine for me. Only thing is being slow it took me a while to realise that it is the channels at the sides of the window that need lubrication. A quick spray and it works absolutely fine now. I'm sure there are many more people you have helped over the years - nice one.
Is there a secret to changing the sidelight bulbs on a C5?
The handbook is useless in that it tells you how to change the bulb, (simple) but omits to say that you can't actually get your fingers on it. There is a bolt on top of the > headlight assembly which, if removed, makes the whole thing fairly loose and it looks as though it ought to be possible to pull it forward (there's enough slack in the wiring to allow that) but I haven't the courage to tug it too hard in case I do irreparable damage. That's what you have to do with the rear light assemblies however so I wonder..............?
What's the secret? Having just spent nearly £50 to have a garage change a sidelight I'd like to know. I find it hard to believe that a car could be designed so
that it's nearly impossible to reach a simple bulb.
Mandamike
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It's a long time coming but in case there are still some enquirers...I found that the bulb holder is latched in, the barb type bits are top and bottom in a vertical plane a gentle squeeze and pull is required, right angle long pliers may help, I only found this out after cutting a hole 2"X1" in the black plastic shell across the top of the holder (measured by feel) so that one finger could be pressed down and another, through the provided rear aperture, pressed up, to pull out the holder, no twisting required, the cut out was hot melt glued back, (black sticks are available) it has to be watertight as the headlamp case is a gutter for water from the bonnet.
All this is to avoid removing the front of the car, and all the rusted in fittings involved, to remove the headlamps....
Does gearbox oil ever need changing in the normal life of a car?
On another forum, I mentioned that my gearbox can seem a tad stiff when cold, and is always hard to get back into 1st when rolling along in a traffic jam.
I had a responce saying that the gearbox oil never needs changing. " Once it's in, it's in" and many other people agreed with this comment.
What do you guys suggest?
TIA Ady...
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I think its the danger of getting contaminants in the gearbox, grit on the level and drain plugs, there had been failures due to this.
I reading this somewhere years ago as to why changes were no longer recommended on some boxes with gear, rather than engine oil.
( can`t remember where though)
We once had a polo in the family and the gearbox oil was 16 yrs old at the end and still no problems.
Having researched etc many MPVs we have narrowed down our choice to 2 cars. The Ford S-Max and the Toyota Corolla Verso. The one 'need' we have is that we need three child car seats in a row and an added bonus is the 6th/7th seats for grandparents! Does anyone know which we should buy?! Does anyone know of any common faults with either of them? Which is nicer to drive? We will be doing mainly town driving with a few long jouneys throuhout each year. Any advice greatly received! Thanks, Georgie Read more
What a lot to think about! I prefer the S-Max because it's more spacious etc but my husband prefers the Verso because they are cheaper as we can buy a 2nd hand one and also we can add more space by adding a roof box for the occasional trips we do where we need to take the entire house with us! We are going to test drive them this weekend hopefully, so we'll see!
Going to Elland Road (football ground) tomorrow morning for all day meeting, starting at about 8:45am, and finishing about 5:00pm.
I could take the 7:25 train from Manchester Piccadilly to Leeds and take a taxi from home to the station and from the station to Elland Road and obviously the reverse route on the way home (or drive to station and park all day). The cost is likely to be £35 for train and say £30 on taxis, or.....
I could drive......
Whats the traffic like on the M62 near to Leeds at about 8am. If in light traffic, the journey should take about one hour, how long will it take if I leave north Manchester at about 7:15am?
TIA Read more
Think our man meant to travel first.
It's a pity that the press coverage of rail fares invariably concentrates on London and the other destinations where the fares are controlled by Virgin, GNER or Great Western and set to astronomical.
Had to attend one or two meetings in Cardiff recently. Driving from Northampton would be 3 hours or so each way and pushing a tank of diesel. By rail, via Brum, is a little longer, mostly on account of the wait at New Street, but at £45 standard return a great bargain. Electric desiro for first leg, then class 175 diesel (with buffet trolley) from Brum to Cardiff. Plenty of time and space plan outward and to write up my notes, panoramic take on scenery on the return with the afternoon sun shining up the Severn.
Even the bridge looked beautiful!!
I have owned a Honda CRV i-VTEC from new which is now just under 5 years old, it is on a 02 plate. The car has been perfect until last Thursday (8th March 2007) whan I was travelling North bound on the M11 near Stansted Airport around 7pm in the evening, so there were quite a few cars on the road, when suddenly at @ 70MPH I heard a large bang and saw lots of smoke coming from the engine, I immediately manouvered the vehicle onto the hard shoulder. Fortunately I was able to negotiate the traffic without colliding with anyone. It was a complete shock and I am not too proud to admit, it frightened the living daylights out of me.
The car is just under 5 years old, it has done 56,000 miles, full service history (3 x Honda, 1 x Independent using genuine parts)
I had the vehicle removed from the side of the road to a local garage I use for my servicing etc - on visual inspection from this independent garage is that it is a manufactuers fault - engine failure!
I have taken photo's of the car in this state and holes can be clearly seen in the engine. Oil has leaked everywhere, now I am no mechanic but in my opinion I would say this is not normal and totally unacceptable for this low mileage.
so the first question is should this be looked at and rectified by Honda under manufactuers warranty? Read more
Hello All, I came across this thread as I was searching some information about Honda CRV engine reliability since I had a bad experience about with my 2007 CVR last February of this year. Basically, I was on a highway drive running around 90KPH, when I manuevered an overtake, as the vehicle is accelerating then suddenly it loses power. From that time on, the check engine light on the panel has triggered on and engine power has shutdown.
I managed to freewheel safely to an emergency lane and when i opened my hood, I saw the the engine is smoking and I smell burning fumes that prompt me to disable the electrical system by removing the battery terminals. Initially, I knew that I may have an engine overheating but the unusual thing is that the temperature gauge on the panel gauge was normal when such thing happened. All my panel reading were all at normal when I made the overtake manuever. I was lucky then, because it was still early in the morning on there were few vehicles on the highway.
I have brought the incident to the attention of Honda dealership and management in our country (Philippines), and I have requested a root cause analysis of what happened especially the non triggering of gauge when abnormal condition of the engine is happening. However, there has been some collusion within the dealership and some of their connections to hide the truth behind what happened. That instead of them taking necessary action to address the concern, they were trying to cover up such incident without taking any necessary action on my case.
My vehicle is well maintained by Honda's recognized dealers and i didn't expect such new vehicle to experience such since my vehicle mileage is around 55K to 58K when it happened.
Since there was collusion to cover up such case, I have sued Honda dealership and its management for their action to give justice on my bad experience.
By the way, when I brought the vehicle to the Honda dealership, they have made a repair qoutation for the damage which is like 45% of the vehicle cost without giving me any root cause of the failure. The FA report I was looking for is for me to understand what had cause the problem so that we can fix rightly the real cause of the problem.
This thread is somewhat similar to DA2000 experience, however it much better for him since he got a deal from the Honda Dealership.
I will let everyone know my update once the litigation is completed.
Thanks everyone for taking time in reading this information.
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Thanks for all the advice. I am going to take it!
Jeremy