I have a Vectra 2.0 DI LS (diesel) from 97, that I bought in second hand one year ago. Since I bought after some miles the Engine Management light (EML) pop up and the power is reduced, but even without the light on the car is not to much responsive specially after reaching 3000 revs it seems that the acceleration its slowly.

After the EML pop up the "P1125 - Critical System Malfunction 2" is stored in the ECU. I have been doing some research and found some possible causes, so I though and realize that would be the EGR Valve, I start asking quotes in eBay and other places and because of the confusion about which EGR valve would be on of them send me two diagrams with the possible valves or pumps, in one of them I could see a valve that I couldn?t see in my car, I rechecked in the car and I just could see the place where the valve was supposed to be and the pipe from the vacuum pump was blocked with a Hailey key. I?m talking about the Solenoid vacuum valve that open and close a butterfly valve in the inlet manifold. I realize that finally I could find the problem, so I bought the valve and before fixing I just try it to see if everything was working properly and notice that after push the throttle the actuator of the valve goes down but immediately comes to his initial position even if the engine is working in high revs. I think that this is not normal, so what is the problem? Is the Vacuum pump not socking enough? How can I know if the vacuum strength it?s with the right strength? Is there a simple way to know about that?

I would be very appreciated if someone can help me with this problem.

Regards,
Jony
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Comments in a couple of other threads have chimed with thoughts of my own lately, so let's get all those views together in one place.

First, my reasons for thinking this way. I've been a diesel user for nearly five years, persuaded to change by the then-new BIK rules as I was choosing what turned out to be my last company car. I still have that car (Volvo S60 D5) and I've been very pleased with the way it combines usable thrust with mid-40s fuel economy, while keeping all the dieselly noises out of the cabin. Only having to refuel it once a month at the moment is a bonus too.

In looking for a replacement, to carry the clobber associated with a growing family, and knowing that I'd be funding it myself, I'm now starting to question my initial assumption that it'll be another diesel. These, in no particular order, are some of my reasons.

* Two cars I otherwise like are utterly ruined by their diesel engines: the Mitsubishi Grandis and the pre-2005 (can't run to a new one) Saab 9-5 estate. The Saab has a variety of powerful, civilized petrol engines; I've not tried a petrol Grandis but would like to.

* The high demand for diesels at the moment, and the usual premium on the new price, generally mean that 1-3 year old diesels cost significantly more than their petrol equivalents.

* The pump price differential between petrol and diesel seems to be here to stay, which offsets the extra consumption of a petrol engine. (Although I'd miss diesel when I go to France - but that's only once a year.)

* It may cost less to service a petrol engine.

* A petrol engine may be less likely to fail expensively in later life.

* At current fuel prices, the difference in fuel cost between a 31 mpg petrol car and a 43 mpg diesel is about 3.1p, or about £1,600 over 50,000 miles. (This, of course, takes no account of different costs for servicing, insurance, VED or depreciation.)

All this suggests to me that, unless a specific diesel car makes a compelling case for itself by being as nice to drive as my Volvo, a petrol equivalent, bought used at the right price, might be a better choice. I'd be interested in what others here think, not about my case in particular but about the broader truth universally acknowledged, that a married man, in possession of a growing family, must be in want of a diesel.
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I have a Corsa 1.4 with a C14NZ (single point injection) petrol engine. Recently, I've had major idling and restarting problems. Usually, it starts first time with no difficulty, but it has a tendency to cut out or stall, and then is difficult if not impossible to restart. If I use the accelerator to prevent cut outs, the revs seem to stay high for far longer than necessary. The idling speed works erratically a lot of the time and the cut outs and difficulty restarting can happen regardless of whether the engine is hot or cold.

Does anyone have any ideas about this? I used to have problems starting the car in damp weather, but I siliconed the leads and that seemed to solve it. Could this have affected the idle speed in some way? Read more

Hi all, which do you think is the most reliable small car on the road at the moment be it petrol or diesel for £2,000 or less. I was tempted with a nissan micra until my brothers timing chain snapped on his and cost him a fair packet to be sorted. Thanks every-one. Graham.
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My wifes scenic 1.5 diesel has done 15000 miles,at about 12000 miles the service warning light came on and the message "service,change oil" shows on the dash.
the dealer where the car was bought says the service interval is 18000 or one year.
Who knows best,the dealer or the car? Read more